clones clones more clones

spl1

Well-Known Member
I scratch down enough until I see the stem tissue, then I dip it in my rooting compound and go put in my sprayer. When I have filled my sprayer full that batch then I turn it back on. How often do you check your PH? I do mine every day in the morning and right before the lights go out. That way I can see if I have a problem from over night or if I had one during the day. Here are the pics I just took of the clones for my customer. They are 7 to 14 days old.
 

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rabbit229

Active Member
I scratch down enough until I see the stem tissue, then I dip it in my rooting compound and go put in my sprayer. When I have filled my sprayer full that batch then I turn it back on. How often do you check your PH? I do mine every day in the morning and right before the lights go out. That way I can see if I have a problem from over night or if I had one during the day. Here are the pics I just took of the clones for my customer. They are 7 to 14 days old.
yeah i check every day and i need to ph it down to 5.8 it go's to 6.0 at night but i have my light on 24/7
big problems to day i got about 4 with roots and 2 of them have started to rot, i changed the water yeaterday because it was old 3 week old water. i cleand the system with h2o2 and rinced it properly, got the ph to 5.7 and the nute's at just 0.4 temp is 75f so why have they started to rot:evil:
 

spl1

Well-Known Member
What is the water temp at? What color is the tank top? Can you up load a nice clear pic of the roots? Are you using any dark colored nut additives?

If the temp is too high it can cause rot, run 2 tsp of 3% H202 (peroxide) per gallon of water and run it for 48 hours then flush and clean the system with 1 tsp of bleach per gallon of water (no plants are in the system at this stage of cleaning) and then flush with just water. This should kill of the funk you have going on. You need to keep the PH around 5.2 to 5.8 no higher, if you have to keep adjusting the PH every day you have algae growth going on and the high temps will bring on the rot.


I keep my tank at around 72 F with my PH at 5.2 and I run 30 clones per ten gallon and clean my tank every 30 days. Every day I check my PH and add PH 5.2 water only when it needs it. I run 1 tsp of superthrive per ten gallons of water and I also run Advanced Nutrients Nirvava in my tank.
 

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
I have a simple cloning question -- when in a plant's life stage do you take clones? Pre-flower I assume, when you know they're female but haven't gone full-flower yet?

I just do simple soil grows for myself and friends, but I'd like to take some clones of this year's indoor grow and put them outside for the coming summer (after they set up for awhile, of course).
 

phreakygoat

Well-Known Member
I have a simple cloning question -- when in a plant's life stage do you take clones? Pre-flower I assume, when you know they're female but haven't gone full-flower yet?

I just do simple soil grows for myself and friends, but I'd like to take some clones of this year's indoor grow and put them outside for the coming summer (after they set up for awhile, of course).
clone in veg, most people sex the mother plant in your position. you can still clone in preflower and in early flower, but cloning in veg is better imo.
 

aagiants1

Well-Known Member
I scratch down enough until I see the stem tissue, then I dip it in my rooting compound and go put in my sprayer. When I have filled my sprayer full that batch then I turn it back on. How often do you check your PH? I do mine every day in the morning and right before the lights go out. That way I can see if I have a problem from over night or if I had one during the day. Here are the pics I just took of the clones for my customer. They are 7 to 14 days old.

Hey spl1..I have a question for you..I noticed your leaves on the clones aren't cut halfway? Do you not do that? and if so can you explain? I just took my first batch of clones about 10 days ago, but i want to make sure that i have a clone thats rooted of each one before they go into flower..and just trying to find the way thats gonna work best for me..thanks bongsmilie
 

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
clone in veg, most people sex the mother plant in your position. you can still clone in preflower and in early flower, but cloning in veg is better imo.
Thanks! I guess what I could do would be to clone a bunch off several plants, then just boot the ones that aren't female.

Cheers...!
 

spl1

Well-Known Member
Hey spl1..I have a question for you..I noticed your leaves on the clones aren't cut halfway? Do you not do that? and if so can you explain? I just took my first batch of clones about 10 days ago, but i want to make sure that i have a clone that's rooted of each one before they go into flower..and just trying to find the way that's gonna work best for me..thanks bongsmilie
No I don't cut my leaves in half, the bottom half are going to fall off any ways when they grow up. I like too leave the leaf system alone they have energy in them that the clone may need.

Some people say to cut them in half but I think they have clear domes and do the spray mist thing. I don't use a dome, I don't spray mist, and the stem is sprayed with water 24/7 until the root form.
I have never used the dome clone system so I don't know first hand how to use it, I have read how to do it, but why change from some thing that works well for me.
 

aagiants1

Well-Known Member
No I don't cut my leaves in half, the bottom half are going to fall off any ways when they grow up. I like too leave the leaf system alone they have energy in them that the clone may need.

Some people say to cut them in half but I think they have clear domes and do the spray mist thing. I don't use a dome, I don't spray mist, and the stem is sprayed with water 24/7 until the root form.
I have never used the dome clone system so I don't know first hand how to use it, I have read how to do it, but why change from some thing that works well for me.

Interesting...And thanks..I noticed the few i didn't cut the leaves on are doing pretty good..I don't blame ya, why change it,when it works..thanks again
 

forest 9

Member
What is the water temp at? What color is the tank top? Can you up load a nice clear pic of the roots? Are you using any dark colored nut additives?

If the temp is too high it can cause rot, run 2 tsp of 3% H202 (peroxide) per gallon of water and run it for 48 hours then flush and clean the system with 1 tsp of bleach per gallon of water (no plants are in the system at this stage of cleaning) and then flush with just water. This should kill of the funk you have going on. You need to keep the PH around 5.2 to 5.8 no higher, if you have to keep adjusting the PH every day you have algae growth going on and the high temps will bring on the rot.


I keep my tank at around 72 F with my PH at 5.2 and I run 30 clones per ten gallon and clean my tank every 30 days. Every day I check my PH and add PH 5.2 water only when it needs it. I run 1 tsp of superthrive per ten gallons of water and I also run Advanced Nutrients Nirvava in my tank.
will the plant use up all the h2o2 with in 48 hours also is it safe to use 4ml per ltr of 3%
 

dirtee

Member
Hello all, new to this and testing my first cloning scenario but I hope it's not too far off topic.

When cloning to find gender, can you go straight to 12-12 lighting? Or do the clones have to root prior to switching the lighting?

Thanks in advance.

dirt
 

spl1

Well-Known Member
this is a very slow forum

24 hour later and still no reply
Well it is over the holidays right now, you know that little thing called X-mass. Maybe you have heard of it?

If you have root rot it will never go away, you can only manage it even if you run H202 in the tank you will be only treating the symptom. You can take the plant with the problem and soak it in 3% strait in a old coffee mug and dunk it up and down like a tea bag, this will help to maybe grow new roots so the infected ones can be cut out.

Yes H202 will break down after a few days in the tank.

Rhizoctonia root rot (Rhizoctonia solani) is a fungal disease which causes damping-off of seedlings and foot rot of cuttings. Infection occurs in warm to hot temperatures and moderate moisture levels. The fungi is found in all natural soils and can survive indefinitely. Infected plants often have slightly sunken lesions on the stem at or below the soil line.

Pythium Root Rot (Pythium spp.) is similar to Rhizoctonia in that it causes damping-off of seedlings and foot rot of cuttings. However, infection occurs in cool, wet, poorly-drained soils, and by overwatering. Infection results in wet odorless rots. When severe, the lower portion of the stem can become slimy and black. Usually, the soft to slimy rotted outer portion of the root can be easily separated from the inner core. Species of Pythium can survive for several years in soil and plant refuse.

Phytophthora root rot (Phytophthora spp.) are usually associated with root rots of established plants but are also involved in damping-off. These species enter the root tips and cause a water-soaked brown to black rot similar to Pythium. These fungi survive indefinitely in soil and plant debris.

Root Rot/Stem Rot is a common disease that affects hydroponics, soil and soilless systems. Growers running soil and soilless systems should be aware of the environment that pythium thrives in, and actively improve their room/planting site conditions. Soil growers do not have the luxury of looking at their roots, so they should anticipate problems and recognize the early symptoms of pythium infection.

Root/Stem rot is almost impossible to treat because it is systemic (internal) in nature. Even in an advanced stage root rot may go unnoticed, with above ground growth appearing normal. Growth and yield however, can be drastically reduced. Think of pythium as flesh eating disease for plants!

Some external symptoms to look for:

Slow growth for no apparent reason

Wilting leaves.
(Narky) Often the top of growth shoots will also become limp and buckle over

Leaves turn yellow starting at the bottom-most node, from the leaf tips inwards

Reddening root collar, turning to a brown/black ring girdling the entire stem.

Eventually this black ring will turn necrotic and the external tissues will appear "eaten" away. The internal vascular tissues will still function, and allow the transpiration of water and nutrients (The plant will appear healthy). Within a week, the dissolved stem will no longer support the weight of the plant, and it will fall over!

Common causes of pythium in soil:
Root rot is also known as damping-off disease because it commonly occurs when plants are in the seedling stage, due to:

1) Inadequate Drainage - MJ requires well drained soil, so add at least 25% Perlite to all soil mixtures. Substitute sterilized pebbles or rocks (be sure to bake this in your oven for 10-15 minutes to sterilize).

tip: put an inert medium (ie. gravel/peagravel/popocks) at the bottom of the container (with your soil/sloilless mixture on top) to avoid saturation of the lowest layers of the soil and provide full draining.

2) Overwatering Growers should allow their plants to (almost) dry out before re-watering (Do the Lift test). This wet-dry watering cycle helps to minimize over watering, stagnant water conditions and low dissolved oxygen within the medium.

3) Stagnant Water Soil moisture that is not absorbed rapidly turns stagnant; the plant quickly uses up any oxygen within the water, then is unable to respire further, resulting in moisture low in o2. Pythium thrives in low-oxygen (anaerobic) conditions.

Plants should be watered at the start of their daily light cycle, so they are able to transpire much (if not most) of that supplied water, resulting in a low soil moisture content and higher oxygen content during the low-growth night cycle. A highly porous soil medium combined with a low soil moisture % provides a higher gas exchange. This is important during night cycle root respiration/flower development.

4) Low light / Low temps Plants in low light conditions does not get adequate energy for healthy growth. Low light will cause plants to stretch, grow slowly, yield poorly and causes general stress. Lowlight also usually results in lower temperatures, resulting in slow growth and stress.

Under low light/cool temp conditions, soil tends to remain cool and saturated for extended periods. Under these circumstances, the plant is unable to actively transpire moisture out of the soil. Oversaturated soils do not allow adequate gaseous exchange, and oxygen becomes depleted.
Stressed plants are more susceptible to disease.

Solution: expose your outdoor plants to more light, allow the soil to warm up by removing excess surface mulch. Plant after June 1 to avoid lower soil temps. Plant on raised burms to increase soil temps and reduced moisture.

Other tips:
Growers can add 5ml/L of No-Damp (a fungicide) to their potting mediums when mixing up. No-Damp discourages root growth however.

(Narky) Stem rot is caused by overwatering and occasionally by mulching to close to the stem while a plant is young. Remove any effected areas of your plant immediately! (Be merciless) Correcting your watering practices and spraying with a fungicide can bring a plant back to health.​
 

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spl1

Well-Known Member
Hello all, new to this and testing my first cloning scenario but I hope it's not too far off topic.

When cloning to find gender, can you go straight to 12-12 lighting? Or do the clones have to root prior to switching the lighting?

Thanks in advance.

dirt
It must be rooted before the 12/12 but you don't have to veg it at all.
 

superdave5

Active Member
Humidity is a key element in cloning so I wouldnt throw that out. Alot comes down to the strain your cloning. Some are easier than others. Alot of it comes down to how your taking the cutting, what hormone your dipping it in, what medium its then goes to, and how you intend on growing it. Ive had near 100% success rate using CLEAN STERILE razor blade, as soon as I take the cutting it goes straight into water for about 30-45 mins to soften tissue, the dip it into clonex/shultz roottake, then into rockwool, and finally goes into a humidity dome until I see roots. I spray and fan the cuttings once a day as well. Ive had bad luck cloning in soil, prob just my luck, but rockwool works great and it braces the cutting well. Good luck hope that helps
 

forest 9

Member
Well it is over the holidays right now, you know that little thing called X-mass. Maybe you have heard of it?

If you have root rot it will never go away, you can only manage it even if you run H202 in the tank you will be only treating the symptom. You can take the plant with the problem and soak it in 3% strait in a old coffee mug and dunk it up and down like a tea bag, this will help to maybe grow new roots so the infected ones can be cut out.

Yes H202 will break down after a few days in the tank.
thanks dude that really helps
 

mrduke

Well-Known Member
does anyone know how to transplant from a aero cloner in to rockwool blocks the 6x6 ones?
 

spl1

Well-Known Member
does anyone know how to transplant from a aero cloner in to rockwool blocks the 6x6 ones?
Break open the rockwool cube just like a hot dog bun then check to see if it is enough for the roots. If so then soak the rockwool cube in PH water with and hold the rockwool closed with 3 rubber bands around the side from top to bottom and just wait from there.

If you need to cut a little bit of the roots it is ok but don't go over border with it. Hope this helps you.
 

forest 9

Member
Break open the rockwool cube just like a hot dog bun then check to see if it is enough for the roots. If so then soak the rockwool cube in PH water with and hold the rockwool closed with 3 rubber bands around the side from top to bottom and just wait from there.

If you need to cut a little bit of the roots it is ok but don't go over border with it. Hope this helps you.
rubber bands , now your thinking!
thats good and very help full dude loads of us weed heads would never of thought of that rubber bands, SMART
 
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