chuckbane
New Member
a plant that young does not need nutes. There are enough nutrients in the soil for more growth than you have. Stop nuting and give her a flush.
Chuck's Newb Help <--- An Educated Newb!
- Thread starter chuckbane
- Start date
a plant that young does not need nutes. There are enough nutrients in the soil for more growth than you have. Stop nuting and give her a flush.
drakodreak25
Active Member
thanks so much man......babies just went in and I'm doing a 18/6 so what do you know or have you grown LR2? I've read lots about them and I'm doing it just for me and to see what they are like. Give me some words if you have any one them. Peace man and thanks again.
drakodreak25
Active Member
i'm not giving any nutes till like 3 or 4 weeks in for sure. light are on and the babies are getting their grow on
Hey Chuck,
Thanks for the thread...I'm having trouble navigating around this site and have a few questions. I just pulled my 2 little girls and I'm not sure of the whole harvest/ drying process...can you help me out? I pulled em yesterday due to cold temps. Not sure if they were ready but Mother Nature was.
Thanks!
Thanks for the thread...I'm having trouble navigating around this site and have a few questions. I just pulled my 2 little girls and I'm not sure of the whole harvest/ drying process...can you help me out? I pulled em yesterday due to cold temps. Not sure if they were ready but Mother Nature was.
Thanks!
chuckbane
New Member
i will give you a quick rundown of drying and curing and if you need anymore information I will post a link for you
drying: pretty simple,, hang buds to dry. If you have a fan blowing they will dry quicker. drying times vary on humidity of the air and how dense the buds are. You will know when they are ready to be cured when the stems snap instead of bend. If you want to speed the process up split the stems with a razor.
Curing: stuff a mason jar full of dried buds and seal er up. open it up every once in a while (every day or every other day) for a bit(hour or so) and move the nugs around. keep doing this for at least a week. you can cure longer if you would like a smoother smoke.
here is a link if you want more information
GROWFAQ
im a nubby online as well im looking for seeds to grow outdoors im in nayarit mex seeds must be suitable for high altitude low temps when harvested dry lime color have heavy yields and high thc for weight also looking for fertilizers to buy for these plants from germ to harvest please help
chuckbane
New Member
Sorry if I came across as rude but I'm not even sure I know what you are asking me. Its all one big sentence with no ?'s
CaptE
Active Member
I just planted 5 seeds. 3 sprouted and 2 didnt. i check the 2 that didnt a few days after the 3 sprouted and they were rotted. I germed them and some had tails some were just cracked. they were all fem seeds from attitude and looked good. were the 2 seeds bunk or did i water to much maybe or what. I went from paper towel germ to small jiffy greenhouse thing but they didnt stay in that long, i just planted the peat net thing in a cup of soil cause i felt like it really. Its hard for me to not do something to the plants for a day. Anyway, about how much water should the seed get when placed in soil or other medium before it sprouts?
chuckbane
New Member
It isnt out of the ordinary for all your seeds to not germinate properly. A good success rate for a good breeder is <90%. Average (in my opinion) is about 80% when you germinate properly. Some "discount" seed stores will sell seeds with a 60-70% germ rate.
with only 3 seeds sprouting you would have a rate of 60%. That is quite low but with odds anything can happen. If the seeds went mouldy you could have been keeping the cloth/towel too damp for too long. Let the towel dry out in the open with the seed folded in it and then re moisten. Do not cover it up to keep the moisture in unless you are leaving for over a few hours.
hope this helps
hardrockereverett
Active Member
i got two questions i guess. the first is if you already have your basic nutrients ( N-P-K ) in your soil/fertilizer do you still need to add nutrient to the water for watering? and can you tell me info on LST (i'm looking to grow using this method and want to make sure i know what i'm doing)
chuckbane
New Member
N-P-K are just your basic compounds needed in any type of vegetative growth, on top of those you also need to feed your plant macro and micronutrients. This is "food for your plant.
Now you can get away with not using these micro and macro nutes, but for optimal results you need to feed.
Examples if these nutes would be:
boron
copper
iron
manganese
molybdenum
zinc
LST simply means low stress training. this can be done in a number of ways depending on your desired results. the ultimate concept behind it is to slowly bend and manipulate branches and leaves in order for light to reach more areas of the plant thus allowing more instances of photosynthesis to occur.
The main trick to LST is to get most or all of it done during the vegetative stage. Training in the flowering stage causes stress which in turn will extend the flowering period past the "expected" date and may possibly cause hermathroditism, however it can be done,, you just have to have the gentle green thumb
here is a link for more on LST
https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=category&id=110
hope this helps
1srtracing
Active Member
Hey ok i got some ?s im starting a grow experiment for a single kola and letting the seeds veg for about 2 weeks and growing a root then stwitching to 12/12 useing fox farm soil with about 3 plants. i was going to use molasses, open sesame, beastly bud and buchmaster one flower adding them to gallon and feeding them through the course my ?s are when i feed them all of the above is that one week then the following plain water? i was going to use cfls 75 watts a light or would i be better to just use a hps light? and how to i flush and when
Thanks
Thanks
chuckbane
New Member
Oh, and To answer your question more directly.
"do you still need to add nutrient to the water for watering?"
Most soils have enough nutrients already in them (mostly from compost and/or peat moss) to keep your plant going for about a month, depending on how fast the plant is growing.
Giving a plant nutrients too early can be bad as burning can occur to the delicate new foliage.
...
This all depends on the specific nutrient you are using. Make sure to read the instructions of each product and follow them carefully. With the amount of nutes you are putting in it I would reduce the doseage dramatically to start off. If you see burning on the leaves then back it off and flush with clean water
HPS is always better but creates much more heat. if over heating is not an issue than by all means go with the HPS, the spectrum is "more useable" by the plant for forming buds/flowers.
But if $$$ is an issue or overheating is an issue than just go with the CFL. CFL's are cheap to buy, require no external ballast and create very little heat in comparison to the HPS and MH.
Flushing is normally undertaken right before harvest but can also be used after "over-nuting". if you find that the doseage of nutes you are giving your plants are burning you should stop nuting and flush.
How?
Simply flood the soil until it begins to drain out the bottom (make sure your pot has proper drainage or you could/will get root rot).
Hope this helps!
chuckbane
New Member
Here is my diy honey oil extractor for anyone who is interested
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/131146-diy-honey-oil-honey-oil.html
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/131146-diy-honey-oil-honey-oil.html
hardrockereverett
Active Member
Hey, Chuck. I got another question. So I'm going to be making a stealth set-up that's kinda tight on head-room for the plant. I've read about less stress training and it seems pretty straight forward. However, I think I read somewhere of another method that if you put more lights around the side/bottom of the plant and 1 or 2 above the plant it causes it to grow more outwards and not as much upwards. Is this an actual method of growing?
onthedl0008
Well-Known Member
Eh bro. ive seen u explain various things about nutrients and how certain vitamens help with beneficial bacteria growth to people on this thread as well as how different supplement help in various stages of growth. this is not a challenge but an approach to better educate myself and understand exactly how these things work so i can tighten down my grow. Ive got all the other aspects on lock down concerning my style of growing and the different methods i can use to perfect my style of growing. like i said im trying to figure out which supplements would be best and why for each stage of growth man. thats it.any input will be appreciated.
chuckbane
New Member
Like i said, I'm just an educated Newb but I do know most to all of the basics of growing pot. I know some more advanced things but am not always 100% confident enough to teach it.
As far as nutes i can break it down simply enough but anything past this I might have to send you a link or something.
Nitrogen - Main function is foliage growth. You should start giving your plant a product with a high concentration of Nitrogen after a couple weeks of growth. If you are starting with a small pot and later transplanting you will not want to start the feed until the transplant has been done.
In flowering the plant needs little to no Nitrogen as you want the plant to focus on making flowers.
Nitrogen is acidic.
Phosphoric acid - Main function is flower growth. This needs to be used during flowering. Acidic, but thats quite obvious.
Potash - Main function is root growth. Can be used during flowering and vegging. Basic.
I dont know much about micro and macronutrients. I do, however, know that they are more important during the flowering cycle. I dont know each specific function for every nutrient, if you look it up and find something good post it up. i would love to know as well.
Hope this helps
onthedl0008
Well-Known Member
Yea cool man same here thats kinda where im @ as well. I appreciate ur response either way. happy growing man.
