Change water yesterday, root rot today

What kinda ppms you using? Ive had good results using the that GMB @ around 650 all at 4ml per gallon which I believe is 1/4 strength 1ml per litre. Just wondering u have a 3 tent rotation or all gonna be stinky at the same time. Would Be a nice for a monthly 1 tent 1light harvesting setup.

Yeah all will be stinking at the same time all have their own carbon filter though.. I will flip them to flower with 4 - 5 days in between though so I can harvest at different days..

I was using 650 ppm(1ml pr l), but have lowered them to 450 now as I read its good while they recover.. Maybe I need to raise it now though..

Another question.. If I use pool shock to sterilize.. How long does it take to be out of the water so I can add hydroguard again?

terno said:

Yeah the water is stable at 20C now and has been for some days.. There is some new root growth, but its quiet slow.. The plants have been light green, but they are slowly getting their color back now.. Been reading about using H202 for 24h and then change the water and add only hydroguard for 24h before I add the nuts back in for a flush.. Just to be sure the pythium is completly gone..

Will the hydroguard eventually take out the pythium? Just seems to take forever.. The plants are growing, but very slowly..

Click to expand...

From my understanding Hydroguards is just watered down Lactobacillus culture. It has its place in organic gardens outside using compost. But I try to advice people to not mix organics with Hydroponics. Why destroy everything that's good about hydro? Sterility and pH control is the main advantage growing in hydroponic systems.

Learn about basic plant nutrition then you don't have to be afraid of using Pool Shock or household bleach. Calcium hypochlorite and sodium hypochlorite is safe to use and all three calcium, sodium and chlorine is essential elements in plant nutrition. In the right amounts of course, but it's really hard to overdo it with bleach.

jimmy1life: what ppms do you run through the grow with GMB?

Full disclaimer: I haven't read every post up to this one. Redundancy possible.

First I should say that the images don't indicate root rot to my eyes. Roots would be coated in an obvious slime and they'll slough off easily. Give a root bunch a very light tug. Root rot usually develops thick and fast. The plants do look a little burned and slumped; I would recommend reconsidering square one and rethinking environment (temp/humid/light distance), ph/water quality/source, nutrient concentrations, etc, and see if you missed something there. Check your notes (keep notes!), any big swings lately? Plants don't regard rapid changes well, usually. Also remember kelp based and/or humic acid additives will harmlessly brown up your roots a bit (e.g. Adv Nutrients B-52 will do this).

If it is indeed root rot, I'd caution you by saying that turning a 'live' system to a sterile one and then back again to live can be a gamble. What usually ends up happening is a brief period of no problems, then a surprise return of the root rot. Thus dramatically extending the time under duress of the plant. Once you clear it up with H2O2 (or sodium hypo, et al) I would heartily recommend you complete the plants life cycle in that new sterile setting.

MM

20c should be a good temp for the water to inhibit baterial growth.
Fought root rot a few times with mixed results before i finally up on it.
I tried some h2o2 first, but it dont help permanetly.
Went mostly with brewing heisenberg teas and think that is a sensefull way.
But my water was higher then 20c and going sterile withyour low temp it is more sensefull.
I tried chlorine/ household bleach, but a very few ml on 10 gallon where too much allready, take care dosing it.
In the end a tricky question as this root rot is a beast, for some it simply works others have to constantly fight it.
We also dont speak of one bacteria or algae, we speak of bouth in several variants, guess there are thousands of local variants.