Smokeman710
Member
Any recommendations on amounts? They are in 7 gallons of medium. Thanks!
Can’t figure this one out!
- Thread starter Smokeman710
- Start date
Aussieaceae
Well-Known Member
No it isn't. Slurry and powder is the best, if you have a good eye.
Smokeman710
Member
Hey guys, I appreciate all the help so far! Seriously!
Aussieaceae
Well-Known Member
Try a small handful first and scratch it in a bit. (probably a couple tbh) You should see some difference within a few days if it's going to help, after you water.
Not a problem at all. All the best.
KillaCarta
Well-Known Member
What Kind of green are the leaves supposed to be ? The bigger fan leaves are darker than the new growth is that normal ?
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
It's not a great way to test pH, but it can give you an idea, especially if you do it religiously. But it can also be deceptive if you're not careful. Test the solution going in, then test the runoff right away, and then again after it sits for a couple minutes. Compare the results. If you give a 7.0 solution and the runoff reads 5.0, there's a damn good chance your soil pH is too low.
There are exceptions though. If you have a high Ca content in the soil, and feed with a citric acid solution that's 6.5, the runoff could be 7.0 since it's flushing out excess Ca, but the soil pH might actually only be 6.2.
If you check the runoff often, you can get a pretty good idea. I finally bought a BlueLab Soil Pen just to know for sure, but they aren't cheap.
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Yes, new growth is always a lighter color.
Smokeman710
Member
Ok guys I got some new info! I did a slurry test on the soil and the ph is low for both! 5.9 and 6.0. It’s not terribly low however, but I tend to water on the lower side of the ph range usually, I also just recalibrated my ph pen before and after and noticed it was reading a little high before calibration so I might have solved it. However, I am an idiot and forgot to mention that I use tap water that has been aerated for 24-36 hours to remove chlorine. I’m sure all the chlorine is gone but, my water is more than likely hard as hell. Which means tons of calcium. Should I still try to add the gypsum? I’m worried I will overload them on calcium if I correct ph and add gypsum. What are your experiences with using tap water? The ppms are around 200-250 so I know there is other stuff in there. Also I bought some distilled water and will use that until this problem is correct. Just curious if I should go back to tap or continue using distilled/ro. Thanks!
polishpollack
Well-Known Member
It's unlikely distilled water will help. Once you put extra fert into FFOF, you've over done it.
HydroKid239
Well-Known Member
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Check out that link. If you identify multiple issues.. I would check and adjust PH in your medium.
Aussieaceae
Well-Known Member
If it truly is low ph, you should ideally raise it. So you probably want lime instead of gypsum. Start off really light on it.
The distilled water should be neutral i think, just double check it and leave it.
Play it by ear with your tap water, but it doesn't sound too bad.
Be absolutely positive the drop in ph, isn't from continuously damp soil.
Good luck and hope things turn around.
polishpollack
Well-Known Member
pH in soil cannot be adjusted. The plant will adjust pH itself around the root. The more you mess with pH the worse things will get. When you dump more fert into FFOF, you've over cooked the soil. Using pH adjusted water will not help. You have to get soil contents right at the beginning, then you don't have to worry about it.
AnonymousConnoisseur44
Active Member
You could also look into a leaf septoria. It’s caused by in adequate ventilation do you have ventilation?
Aussieaceae
Well-Known Member
@Smokeman710
Dolomite lime, if it isn't overwatering. Dolomite will be better than straight lime. I realized i wasn't too specific about which lime to use. I apologize for that, I should've been.
Ordinary garden should be fine too, if that's what you have. Just be mindful to use it sparingly. It generally sweetens the soil more / faster than dolomite. Dolomite has the mg too.
Giving you benefit of the doubt.
If I had to gamble and put all in, I think overwatering / soggy soil is what's causing the drop..
Anyway, all the best in solving it. Hope you find the culprit.
Dolomite lime, if it isn't overwatering. Dolomite will be better than straight lime. I realized i wasn't too specific about which lime to use. I apologize for that, I should've been.
Ordinary garden should be fine too, if that's what you have. Just be mindful to use it sparingly. It generally sweetens the soil more / faster than dolomite. Dolomite has the mg too.
Giving you benefit of the doubt.
If I had to gamble and put all in, I think overwatering / soggy soil is what's causing the drop..
Anyway, all the best in solving it. Hope you find the culprit.
Armyofsprout
Well-Known Member
That is completely not true. Ph definitely can be adjusted using dolomite and such.
polishpollack
Well-Known Member
provided you put it in the mix. that's what I meant when I said get the soil right at the beginning. you can't flush with pH adjusted water and expect that to work.