Canopy Managment 101

excellent thread Sub. 2 questions about your clones.
1. how tall do you cut your clones.
2. how wet do you initially make the rapid rooters.
i noticed the directions on the rapid rooters call for soaking them and mine seem to saturate to the point they hold about 1/4 cup of water .
i am used to rockwool cubes and this would be way too wet for how i do clones in RW.
however i see better results from firiends clones that were started in rapid rooters and want to give them a whirl

My clones are about 3" tall you can see pics on my cloning thread.
https://www.rollitup.org/subcools-old-school-organics/50073-cloning-subcool-redundant-explanation-pictures.html


The best thing about rapid rooters is its almost impossible to over water em. Just dont let em dry out and we get great success. Once while traveling I left almost 1" of standing water in my trey and when we returned from a 7 day trip almost 80% were rooted.

rapid Rooters act completly diff that rockwool

Lets look at some real time action shots of work in progress

Here we load up a room

These plants were pre budding in the smaller room and now that we have harvested its time to load em in.

Hey do me a favor?
Please tell everyone that grows about this thread so we can help spread the craft ok?

Now I need to say that as far as yields I can not compete with hydro but no one has ever not wanted my bud. Even the cockiest of growers will ask me for meds so that has to mean something. To us taste and resin are paramount.
If I need to yield more I can just grow a bigger plant right.
What we are after here is Dank; The Very Best not to have shit loads of mediocre weed.

If you plants are not this happy before budding then change your methods.

Tommorow we will discuss another huge problem with new growers and old.

Over Feeding!

Well this is my first post here...im new to growing Marijuana and, quickly becoming fascinated with the subject...right now there are 3 WWxNL#5 and 3 IBL Crystals in the flowering stage but they were not grown 100% organic...using FoxFarm Nutrients...a 4x4x7 grow tent is being used for flowering with a 400w HPS ...I read that 4x4 is the proper space for a 400w bulb...so I believe that the set up is correct...

With all that being said I just want to say thanks for making this whole sub section with such detailed information in it...I will be trying your super soil mix with the clones that are beginning to root... and also will try the early topping and LST with the WWxNL #5 clones...thinking of picking up some of the Vortex seeds which you spoke so highly about...so I will have an abundance of questions for you im sure when the time comes...hope you don't mind...but the details are what make the difference...and here is a place where details are not left out....thanks again and great job with this entire sub section...

Thanks very much Tom and all questions are welcome

Sub

first, great work. my question is in regard to the sq ft recommended for each light size. assumptions -

1.the figures you show equate to about 3,000 lumens per sq ft at the edges of the grow area, if my light meter and r squared calcs are right.

2. the recommended minimum light is 3,000 lumens per sq ft.

3. going to the next larger light than you recommend gives 6,000 lumens per square ft at the edges of the grow area.

4. most people, myself included, start with a room size and figure out what light would be best for the area.

5. recreational growers care more about total yield or yield per square ft than yield/watt

question: given the above assumptions, aren't you better off using the next biggest light to maximize production in a set amount of space?
+ rep for the thread

desertrat said:

first, great work. my question is in regard to the sq ft recommended for each light size. assumptions -

1.the figures you show equate to about 3,000 lumens per sq ft at the edges of the grow area, if my light meter and r squared calcs are right.

2. the recommended minimum light is 3,000 lumens per sq ft.

3. going to the next larger light than you recommend gives 6,000 lumens per square ft at the edges of the grow area.

4. most people, myself included, start with a room size and figure out what light would be best for the area.

5. recreational growers care more about total yield or yield per square ft than yield/watt

question: given the above assumptions, aren't you better off using the next biggest light to maximize production in a set amount of space?
+ rep for the thread

Click to expand...

The sizes I gave are so that people use there hoods properly
If you have a 12x12 Room id use 4-1000 watt bulbs to cover 4-6x6 footprints.

So what your asking is if you have a 4x4 room should you use the 1000 watt bulb anyway and the answer is yes if 4x4 is all the area you have but if you had the 6x6 you would simply produce more bud.

power is not cheap so dont right off a few amps thats why were in an energy crisis.

Sub

No shit about the energy issue! We've done quite a bit to reduce our costs, not just for energy (propane and electric, in a county that provides water for Alameda and hydroelectric power) but other... "footprints" such as garbage.

I'll tell you what I would like to do, had I more funds, would be to try those sun tubes in an indoor growing space. Think about it, providing cool sunlight, actual sunlight, that, instead of being replaced by electric light would instead be supplemented by it. Problematic for those who want to grow using an alternate lighting schedule, but not for those a bit more pragmatic.

subcool said:

power is not cheap so dont right off a few amps thats why were in an energy crisis.

Sub

Click to expand...

it's not a waste of energy if the yield in gm/watt is greater for the bigger light. so if you get a 1/2 increase in yield from a 600 compared to a 400 in the same grow space then its by definition more efficient to use. given the greater efficiency and shear amount of light this seems like a possibilty.

i wouldn't mind trying a super-soil run, but i have one question. where do you get fritted trace elements? i checked (my favorite place to get anything) e-bay, and there were no hits. my local store doesn't carry them either.

We now use Azomite

we have a hit! e-bay has azomite, cheap!!

Would using garden net like this constitute proper canopy managment? its kind of hard to see the netting. there are so many bud sites that i'll have to cut off the tops and leave the plant another week to flower so the lower branches can finish.

WHP, I just dig your nick. Your bush looks awfully nice, too.


































Wait... that came out totally wrong, I'm a woman, I didn't mean it that way.

great detailed info...thanks for sharing your knowledge with us...i will soon benifit from it i hope...btw...you may recognize my avitar photo as being one of your amazing photos...hope you dont mind

thanks for the great info...i hope to benifit from it soon...btw...you may have noticed my avitar is one of your amazing photos...hope you dont mind

Subcool.... I enjoyed reading this thread so much, I read it twice. I am recommending it to everyone in the Organic Forum. Thank You so much & keep the good info coming....
.
Keep it Real...Organic.... cause chem ferts - suck.....
.

Question about soil. Can you re-use it? I'm using FF ocean forrest with perlite (and considering doing a 50/50 blend of of + light warrior then adding perlite.) Once I clip my harvest could I use the soil over again for my next grow?

I ask because this shit is expensive, and since it doesn't have any nutes I thought maybe it was re-usable. It seems wasteful to just throw it away after every harvest.

I re-compost my soil. The root material has to break down. This is what I do for my other plants, so it seems that it would work with Mary, too.