• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Can you run a 400w hid in a 250w lumatek ballast? Anyone tried it?

Samwell Seed Well

Well-Known Member
"ballast is designed to run" at the setting it is designed to run at(that includes the bulb at he end providing resistance) learn to read that could be a real issue with your misconceptions, so if you have the wrong bulb in a ballast not designed to run it you will be under loading or overloading your ballast both bad, a bulb, designed to run at a certain wattage in a ballast that runs less watts, will make cause the ballast to overload running hard to make 400 watts and that equals blown ballast and hopefully not a burnt down house

the variance that you expect within a circuit is normal house fluctuation so if you had a meter on your plugs you could see up to 20% swings, swings being the important word to think about, not constant running at watts that re too high, thats why you never load a circuit more than 80% of its breaker, but the circuit created after your ballast takes 120v or 240v and turns it into 250 400 600 or 1000watts is a lot less tolerable of constant variance, watts being a measurement of energy passing through circuit thats all. A measurement! and it is tied to the proper resistance being present in the circuit , that means the bulb silly

figure it out, and stop endangering other growers with your half assed advise


my expertise with inverter style magnetic ballast and digital invert style AC converters are a fundamental part of the welding industry, i also have welding degrees as well as automotive degrees and worked in light to medium construction where we did basic electrical install on house light circuits and plugs for add on, not to mention the 3 yrs of designing and creating my own electrical circuits and wiring . . . . opps forgot to add the most important part

and this makes me no expert but what i say is true, and im sure there are some of you that know even more than i , i really know to basic fundamental the smallest amount to know to give basic advise, i am no expert but if these basic ideas of how a circuit works are not understood you should not do any of your own wiring without having someone there who is qualified to green light the work, even im guilty of this at times, someone just died burnt to death in there sleep, hopefully long dead before that, nearby and it is not a risk worth taking
 

Gastanker

Well-Known Member
A welder giving advise on the electrical circuitry inside of bulbs? :roll: Gotcha...

My ballast puts out a constant, the bulb is also a constant - resistance and everything.

GL, OP.
 

Samwell Seed Well

Well-Known Member
A welder giving advise on the electrical circuitry inside of bulbs? :roll: Gotcha...

My ballast puts out a constant, the bulb is also a constant - resistance and everything.

GL, OP.

your ignorance is vast my friend,

a different bulb will have a different resistance as it is designed to run at a different wattage

and go do a little bit of research where the inverter style magnetic ballast came from, ill clue you in welding the need for faster and more consistent and mobile welding created the inverter style ballast you use today about a 100 yrs ago and your precious digital inverter style ballast came from them . . . . . see the connection
 

Gastanker

Well-Known Member
A welder giving advise on the electrical circuitry inside of bulbs? :roll: Gotcha...

My ballast puts out a constant, the bulb is also a constant - resistance and everything.

GL, OP.

I apologize, that is neither polite nor helpful.

Ballasts provide a given current; x volts, xwatts, = x amps. If you run a miss matched bulb the ballast doesn't receive resistance. You are right though, if I run a 1kW lamp in a 600w ballast the lamp provides resistance. This resistance is not felt by the ballast, and guess what, it's not felt by the bulb either. The resistance translates into inefficiency - the bulb will not heat up to the desired temp resulting in a change of spectrum. The resistance simply translates into less efficiency out of the bulb - this does not mean it hurts or taxes the bulb and it definitely doesn't hurt or tax the ballast.

This is simplified but lets say you have a 1kW bulb running at 600w. The ballast is using 600w - 60% of the specified power of the bulb. The bulb will not put out 60% luminance running at 600w if running at 1kW = 100%. The resistance provided by the bulb diminishes the electricity's ability to properly heat it which means the gasses are not fluorescing at peak luminescent so you will get less than 60% of the light, but you are neither taxing the bulb nor ballast. 60% wattage at 120v through a bulb will not heat the element to 60% heat - it will be even less than this... that is all.

Welding came from arc lamp technology... I would say ballasts were always in the lighting department...


***I am in now way recommending people run over rated bulbs on their ballasts - but you are way more likely to start a fire running 2 600w ballasts on a 15 amp breaker with the proper bulbs than 1 600w ballast running a 1kW bulb.
 

Samwell Seed Well

Well-Known Member
when you give people bad advise that can put people in danger i neither need to be polite nor care to be

the help comes at preventing a fire or a ballast from exploding and from correcting some bad advise
 
Top