Can you over do it when applying activated EM? Cause notable ph changes?

So I made my first batch of activated EM1. I ended up with 5+ gallons and have it bottled up after using enough to start off my 6 x 5ga pots at a water to activated EM ration of 2:1

1st question - Should I have diluted further than 2:1 - was this over doing it?

2nd question - When applying (especially heavily like I may have done) will this cause any notable ph swings?

I've basically used 1/3 of the soil I had mixed and cooking for several months and wanted to ask these application specific aspects before I go off and treat the other 2/3 of my soil mix.

My fear is I may have ruined that batch by over application. If so, any remediation I can do or is that soil shot and should be thrown out to the flower beds (or harmful ?)

You can over apply anything and may have with the EM 1. But, I really doubt that the soil is ruined.

EM1 when done is super acidic with a pH of below 4.0 IIRC and it's been years since I've used the liquid like you did. I mainly make Bokashi bran and use it like that. But the dilution I used was more like 10:1, water to EM1. Again, this is with a faulty memory.

But still, it's mainly bacteria AND in liquid form, so, it will leach out and the bacteria will die off till a soil balance is reached. It's NOT a permanent cock-up. Let it sit for a bit and get some cheap, easy to grow veggie seeds to check the condition of the soil.

Was the soil mix limed when made? If it is well buffered, the pH swing should be fairly temporary till the soil bufferes the added liquid.

But, popping the veggie seeds will be your best indication for the soils condition.

Actually used a brand new soil ph pen/probe and was doing a slurry test finding my ph was around 6.5 or so. I did use some dolomite, some gypsum, along with several other amendments. I had also used a previous ph pen and did a runoff test and found similar results. A ph drops & paper check on that runoff all seemed to jive and be fairly close to each other. So yeah I hope the buffering will be there. I think I'll go with a much higher dilution on these other 2 cans (32 gal) each. Thinking 5 gal water to 1 gal EM. These will have a much much longer time to sit. I won't need them for quite some time in the future.

I'll let them sit for a week or so and do another slurry test and verify.

Also curious if worth the time to also add anything like Azos (nit fixing bacteria) or Hydroguard while they're sitting and stewing (both the near term and long term batches). I threw some mosquito bits (bti) in as well to get some preventative measures going. I don't think this soil has any larvae and was previously sitting out in a cold garage.

*I* wouldn't bother much while the soil is just sitting. Just before, or when, something is growing in it is the time. When enzymes from growing roots interacting with the microherd starts, that's when everything really gets in gear.

Makes sense. Didn't know if there was any advantage to the prolonged sitting/cooking time since it's a luxury I can afford on the remainder of the batch that will literally be sitting for several months (albeit in a cool/cold garage after I take these 2 heavy ass 32gals back out - ugh!).

Enzymes was the only thing I had also considered knowing it 'broke down' old root mass, etc. I.e. Hygrozyme and the likes (which I'm still looking for a cheaper alternative to Hygrozyme - considered a couple like Big Time Enzyme and Biocozyme, etc). Or better yet a DIY source of enzyme action.

For DIY enzymes, microbes and even some unique bacteria, a worm bin is pretty much a one stop shop. Not bagged stuff, but fresh VC that contains worms, eggs and is full of life.

Worms can only eat (slurp up), the bacterial slime from decomposing organic matter. If that bacteria is present in the soil, great. If lacking, the worms carry their own in their gut as a sort of belt and suspenders thing to insure their food supply. Seeding the soil with microbes so to speak. Nature always tries to provide more than one source for necessary stuff and reach a balance.

Didn't know the worm bins provided any enzymes. I've otherwise heard their praises. Can you keep one going in a cold ass garage? Uninsulated barn where it'd get really cold?

Otherwise happy to report my EM did test at a low ph (3.4 ish) as expected, indicating it did ferment properly. A slurry test is showing my soil ph at 6.7 or 6.8 (fluctuates between those two) so it appears my buffering was sufficient. Since I have this EM and need to use it up I think I'll proceed to at least treat the leftover batches for long term storage with the same 2:1 and then after a few weeks of indoor temps they need to really go back out to the garage. I assume the microherd will basically just go dormant and need a small kick start perhaps when that soil is put into use finally... Can't hurt I'd assume.

Another curiosity question if anyone has any input... The batches I dosed with EM that will be left to sit for months... While I still have them indoors and right after applying the EM - given they are anaroebic - would it benefit me to throw something like clingwrap film over the cans and let it sit for a few as sealed as I can get it? They have lids but there's a modest air pocket at top that I could diminish using something like cling film. Then the 2nd angle on that would be - keep them stored for the long haul sealed or let them begin to breathe again when putting back out into garage for longer term storage.