Can somebody help?

Hey guys, i'm wondering what causes this? this used always to happen when i feed her like i did today 5 mins ago (GH Flora series each 2,5 ml/10L, PH ~5.8, fabric pot, coco/hydroton, 3 Weeks old) i also take care not to over water which means i don't feed as much till water comes out at bottom. and also after 2 days or so she'll look normal/pikey again... what going on?

omg they keep taloning...

Nitrogen toxicity?
Overwatering btw isn’t how MUCH water but how often.
I don’t use coco it seems too finicky for me but hopefully someone will be along soon with more help than I am lol

Weouthere said:

Nitrogen toxicity?
Overwatering btw isn’t how MUCH water but how often.
I don’t use coco it seems too finicky for me but hopefully someone will be along soon with more help than I am lol

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thanks but i can't imagine that 'cause after each feeding (when 2 inches of top soil is dry) i give her 2 runs of plain water, PH'd ofc

Weouthere said:

Nitrogen toxicity?
Overwatering btw isn’t how MUCH water but how often.
I don’t use coco it seems too finicky for me but hopefully someone will be along soon with more help than I am lol

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you were right! i gave her a flush right away and now look at this

I think it's a watering issue how often do you water and how much? what are you using for aeration in your soil also did you rinse coco before use? Your leaves look to pale to be nitrogen toxic imo

Brandon137 said:

I think it's a watering issue how often do you water and how much? what are you using for aeration in your soil also did you rinse coco before use? Your leaves look to pale to be nitrogen toxic imo

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the soil was overnourished. i use to water them when about 2" of the top soil is dry. i'm using a 60/40 coco/hydroton blend. no the coco bricks i use are presaturated already which means today was my first feeding by this one.

CerealKilla_OmertaDesign said:

Another thing to consider, which has happen to me in the past and may explain why the recent flush you performed showed improvement, is salt build up (nutrient lockout) especially if you water so no water runs out of the bottom.

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yea i think that the reason was kinda nute lockout. guess i can still just water her for the next week

Water more volume until 10-20% run off everytime.

As already stated overwatering is not the amount you water with, its the frequency and your not going to get that problem in coco with plants that size.
You could literally put 100 gallon every day through that without issue, apart from flooding your house!

since dtw was kinda annoying habit i tried to save some nutes even its just some ml you're wasting if you count it up it could be another bottle you're saving a year. thats the reason i tried not to get a runoff at all. turns out its not a good idea. thanks for the advise guys

another question: she is now in a 5L pot. can i flip her now into flowering without getting root-bound or do i have to transplant her in a bigger one?

majjy_rane said:

another question: she is now in a 5L pot. can i flip her now into flowering without getting root-bound or do i have to transplant her in a bigger one?

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If you are questioning, it means you need to go bigger

Powertech said:

If you are questioning, it means you need to go bigger

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thanks alot. but i was just wondering when i have to flip her into flower so i don't have to transplant her from a 5L pot? 2nd week of veg maybe?

well, how big you can allow your plants to grow has to do with alot of factors - but mostly the light (strength) which you are using, the size of your growspace, and how stretchy the genetics are.

For me personally the plants I see in your pics are still too small for flowering. Try to get them more bushy by using plant manipulation techniques like LST, topping, supercropping. Try to get an evenly flat canopy where the green will fill most of the area of your growspace. But a net over them so the colas won't fall to the sides once they fatten up. Then flip them if you're having a mostly-indica genetic. If you're running pure or mostly satica you need to flip them more early.
Only transplant during the vegetative stage. Bigger pots mean longer watercycles so you have less work to do. I find that perlite is much better to get air into a substrate than hydroton correls. in order to prevent overwatering. Don't water that often because coco can hold a boatload of water which will prevent that the roots get access to air. This is especially the case when your plants are still small in comparison to the pot. If the pot is filled up with roots and you a strong light running then overwatering will never be an issue but for this your plants still need to double or triple in size.

Nevertheless correls are great to fill up the first inch of the container to shield your substrate from light reducing water evaporation.

edit:
plus I find your plants look a bit too stretchy... maybe its the genetics but it could also be that your lights aren't strong enough. If this is the case, hang them closer to your plants. Then, your plants will use up the water more swiftly also countering any overwatering issue.

Kassiopeija said:

well, how big you can allow your plants to grow has to do with alot of factors...

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first of all thanks for the advise i use to lst the other 2 girls, on the bigger one i putted a scrog on since i moved her in this 1x1x2m tent. their lighted with a 100w led q-board. they're all green crack. my idea was to flip them as soon as possible into flower. (btw the biggest one [20L] is/was the mother) my question is if the two smaller ones would get root bound if i let them in these 5L pot till harvest?

Smaller pots are ok just know that they may need 2 waterings a day when there big.I up pot only 1 size at a time,keeps the water schedule about the same.I would top those two taller stems,everything looks good.

myke said:

Smaller pots are ok just know that they may need 2 waterings a day when there big.I up pot only 1 size at a time,keeps the water schedule about the same.I would top those two taller stems,everything looks good.

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thanks. my biggest concern is actually root bound. what does it to the harvest? do i have to worry about one of those to get root bound when i keep then in there?

3 G pots is my max size,you can grow trees in them.Root bound isnt such a bad thing,they drink fast and respond equally as fast so you get a good read on them.

@majjy_rane

Bigger pots will most likely increase your yield, and you have less watercycles. If your plants ran out of water for one time during flower (just think you get sick or otherwise preoccupied...) one time leaves drop it will decrease your yield. This is why I increase potsize as big as I have space availble for it - but I also reuse it so it's not a waste to do so...

100W isn't that strong for 1m^2, so you could send them into flower right now, but it wouldn't make sense if you transplant because from flowering stage 3 on hardly any roots develop. If you really wanna maximizing yield get additional light, bigger pots & 2-3 weeks additional veg time.

edit:
and a scrog net

thanks a lot, i'll keep that in mind for the next time

however the funny thing about this q-board is that i still get around ~750 ppfd at a distance of about 20" by 100w. awesome, right? also it blasts fullspectrum with +5000k. i wanna see how the yields gonna be with this light. it's all experimental tho. try to set the electric consumption low. right now i'm running on full on by about 150w

unfortunately i just have a scrog in my 60x60cm tent where my mother was since today. looking forward to build one for this tent