can i go organic next year for $250 or less?

They might not add some of the stuff we think they do. But who cares? There are nutes in the water, and you really can't over to it. It's safe, clean, and some times free or dirt cheap. Lol, dirt cheap. You can take the tea and spray it in our plants. So yay! It's a great way to have stuff ready to go, and pour. Not a ton of work to do it.
It is some thing I am ready to do for my garden, and indoor garden. However I am doing it 100 gallons at a time. I have a huge outdoor garden.
I say you can't do an harm, and you are adding stuff. Might not be all we think it is, but who cares.
If it helps it helps. If it does not it's still great water.

Your right, there isn't any proof teas are "better" but there are still valid reasons to use them. The primary purpose of making a tea is to take the existing dry matter, liquify it so it more easily disperses into the soil. By applying oxygen and sugars your able to increase the populations of the micro organisms which in turn helps to break down the tea even quicker, making those nutrients available to your plant quicker then they normally would if mother nature was doing it all on her own.

Now what exactly goes into teas is a matter of debate. Its hard to argue that bat quano is better then iguana castings or any other type of poop. What we know is that when a bat takes a piss, most of it usually lands in their poop (this is also true with birds and horses), and where you have bats and bat poop, there are usually other critters who live in the poop, poop in the poop, and even die in the poop. So as a whole, bat quano provides lots of nitrogen (piss), potash (the fiber that makes the bulk of the poo), and to a lesser extent phosphorus (minerals found in the dirt, skin, bones, exoskeletons, and rocks surrounding the poop). Animals like cows, are going to have less nitrogen (piss) in their poo and more potash (all that fiber from chewing vegetation). So because there is less nitrogen going into the poop, it's not as "hot" (likely to burn).

When comparing poops, you want to think about what's all going into the poop. Just like in hydroponics nutrients or synthetic fertilizer, it still comes down to the basic NPK + micronutrients. While pH is also a concern, if the poop is properly composted and your microbes are built in large enough numbers, the pH should balanced itself out. If it doesn't, bacteria die and fungi takes over in it's place (or vice versa) until that organism has consumed enough of it's recourses that their numbers are forced to decline and balance is restored.

[video=youtube;BXGqJbFZzCo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BXGqJbFZzCo[/video]

I think you should watch this. It was posted on another thread some time ago and I thought it might inspire/be useful to anyone wondering about organics or teas.

Also, start growing some 'Bocking 14' Comfrey. The roots are easily, cheaply ordered online, and the plants basically grow themselves.

I have some growing in pots and outdoors, I bring the pots in during winter and use them for the indoor garden.

One of the best tea plants known to this Earth.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comfrey#Fertilizer_uses

People excrete far more of certain water-soluble plant nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) in urine than in feces.[4] Human urine can be used directly as fertilizer or it can be put onto compost. Adding a healthy person's urine to compost usually will increase temperatures and therefore increase its ability to destroy pathogens and unwanted seeds. Urine from a person with no obvious symptoms of infection is generally much more sanitary than fresh feces. Unlike feces, urine doesn't attract disease-spreading flies (such as house flies or blow flies), and it doesn't contain the most hardy of pathogens, such as parasitic worm eggs. Urine usually does not stink for long, particularly when it is fresh, diluted, or put on sorbents.[citation needed]
Urine is primarily composed of water and urea. Although metabolites of urea are nitrogen fertilizers, it is easy to over-fertilize with urine, or to utilize urine containing pharmaceutical (or other) content, creating too much ammonia for plants to absorb, acidic conditions, or other phytotoxicity.[5]

i'm not going to piss on em....but that was good info...

anyone care to give a basic tea recipe,the cost of ingredients ,and about how much i would need...

also the $250....
i really don't have room (or good soil) to grow crops for teas...i wish i did as that would be ideal....

thanks everyone...i am going to the library in the morning...

Well then ... Try this recipe.

"Humanure" is a portmanteau neologism designating human excrement (feces and urine) that is recycled via composting for agricultural or other purposes. The term was first used in a 1994 book by Joseph Jenkins[20] that advocates the use of this organic soil amendment.
Humanure is not sewage that has been processed by waste-treatment facilities, which may include waste from industrial and other sources; rather, it is the combination of feces and urine with paper and additional carbon material (such as sawdust). A humanure system, such as a compost toilet, does not require water or electricity, and when properly managed does not smell. A compost toilet collects human excrement which is then added to a hot compost heap together with sawdust and straw or other carbon rich materials, where pathogens are destroyed. A composting toilet processes the waste in situ. Because the term "humanure" has no authoritative definition it is subject to misuse; news reporters occasionally fail to correctly distinguish between humanure and "sewer sludge" or "biosolids".
By disposing of feces and urine through composting, the nutrients contained in them are returned to the soil. This aids in preventing soil degradation. Human fecal matter and urine have high percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, carbon, and calcium. It is equal to many fertilizers and manures purchased in garden stores. Humanure aids in the conservation of fresh water by avoiding the usage of potable water required by the typical flush toilet. It further prevents the pollution of ground water by controlling the fecal matter decomposition before entering the system. When properly managed, there should be no ground contamination from leachate.
As a substitute for a flush water process, it reduces the energy consumption and, hence, greenhouse gas emissions associated with the transportation and processing of water and waste water.
Humanure may be deemed safe for humans to use on crops if handled in accordance with local health regulations, and composted properly. This means that thermophilic decomposition of the humanure must heat it sufficiently to destroy harmful pathogens, or enough time must have elapsed since fresh material was added that biological activity has killed any pathogens. To be safe for crops, a curing stage is often needed to allow a second mesophilic phase to reduce potential phytotoxins.
Humanure is different from night soil, which is raw human waste spread on crops. While aiding the return of nutrients in fecal matter to the soil, it can carry and spread a number of human pathogens. Humanure kills these pathogens both by the extreme heat of the composting and the extended amount of time (1 to 2 years) that it is allowed to decompose.

I think its all free.....

Well if he ain't gonna use piss I doubt he will use human shit.

I think mine is pretty cheap. Will use kelloggs paito if I find but usually Pro-mix organic sea based with Myco(menards)$4-7. Through whole grow I use tea and same recipe handed down from a master named Mr.West. In a 2.5gal bucket with tap 7.0ph which I don't ever mess with or care. I put 2cups EWC(35lbs isnt much cost cant remember), 2cups Alfalfa meal($13 a box), 1-2Tbs of For the Farm Only Root Pack on ebay(http://www.ebay.com/itm/for-the-farm-only-/230761890387?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item35ba7b0253) And 50-60ml Hi-brix molasses(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Earth-Juice-Hi-Brix-Mollases-1-Gallon-Ships-Free-/350484534428?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519a81949c).
Bubble for 24hr. Been doing it for a year now and its easy and feed about once a week esp in flower. Its got all you need. You can play around with it I have made it stronger for certain plants or dilute it here and there for smaller starters or mothers but I check ppm just 2 have a idea were Im at. I have feed 1000ppm(not sure how accurate meter) with this brew upping it more on a hungry diesel and greened right up 2days later.


I thought clay was alkaline? I have clay around and always tested high ph.

There are many teas that work good. If you compost throwing that in the tea is plus. Also the alfalfa and ewc and micros are put in a pantie hose stocking just in case your not familiar with teas. And Super soil works but its not just subcools method. There are many various amendments you can do. I went with Dirrty's 2012 recipe and still wasn't exact but turned out good and only feed teas late in flower on a couple diff strains not all.
But buying all the stuff for amending soil can get pricey and take time to cook and that's why I just use teas now with decent soil.


That guy in that youtube tea video must have sum badass soil plus his tea. You could try doing a garden like that but its gonna take years getting good like that. I grow 10ftplus tall tomatoes vertically scrogged and there 5ft wide but that zucchini blew my mind. Pretty sick. I wonder were his real garden is?

Vindicated said:

Your right, there isn't any proof teas are "better" but there are still valid reasons to use them. The primary purpose of making a tea is to take the existing dry matter, liquify it so it more easily disperses into the soil. By applying oxygen and sugars your able to increase the populations of the micro organisms which in turn helps to break down the tea even quicker, making those nutrients available to your plant quicker then they normally would if mother nature was doing it all on her own.

Now what exactly goes into teas is a matter of debate. Its hard to argue that bat quano is better then iguana castings or any other type of poop. What we know is that when a bat takes a piss, most of it usually lands in their poop (this is also true with birds and horses), and where you have bats and bat poop, there are usually other critters who live in the poop, poop in the poop, and even die in the poop. So as a whole, bat quano provides lots of nitrogen (piss), potash (the fiber that makes the bulk of the poo), and to a lesser extent phosphorus (minerals found in the dirt, skin, bones, exoskeletons, and rocks surrounding the poop). Animals like cows, are going to have less nitrogen (piss) in their poo and more potash (all that fiber from chewing vegetation). So because there is less nitrogen going into the poop, it's not as "hot" (likely to burn).

When comparing poops, you want to think about what's all going into the poop. Just like in hydroponics nutrients or synthetic fertilizer, it still comes down to the basic NPK + micronutrients. While pH is also a concern, if the poop is properly composted and your microbes are built in large enough numbers, the pH should balanced itself out. If it doesn't, bacteria die and fungi takes over in it's place (or vice versa) until that organism has consumed enough of it's recourses that their numbers are forced to decline and balance is restored.

Click to expand...

One thing to think about is that all and most (shit) you get from any animal is gonna have piss in it all unless your out in a field collecting cow pies only. It all has piss, shit, dead bugs, dead fetus that was not found, dead bird, hair tons of others all used in a amendment to my veggie garden. Its all coming from feedlots or chickenfarms or whatever. But either way it all must sit and decay and compost before using.

i have seen dirtyd's mix...but i have no idea where to get most of that stuff...
our grow shop would be like "get out" ....pains from living in the boondocks...
i got one more for you guys...about how much tea would you guys think a plant in a 100 gallon smart pot would need a week?
..

also
thank you dooders! helping me ditch the salts....
please keep them coming...

Here is the tea recipe I found very useful..

https://www.rollitup.org/organics/501907-compost-teas-superpower-your-microherd.html

With the clay soil, you may have a wonderful chance to create permanent "pots" in the ground. I've always wanted to experiment with really big holes dug into clay, and basically fill them with manure, grass clippings, leaves, rock dusts ect. Let them compost down, and they are ready to plant. Depending on conditions, these seem like they could do allot better than pots.

Rising Moon said:

With the clay soil, you may have a wonderful chance to create permanent "pots" in the ground. I've always wanted to experiment with really big holes dug into clay, and basically fill them with manure, grass clippings, leaves, rock dusts ect. Let them compost down, and they are ready to plant. Depending on conditions, these seem like they could do allot better than pots.

Click to expand...

ive done my experince with clay holes and filling them whid nice soil and compost and all... ONE BIG FUCK UP if it rains, its a swamp in each hole water doesn´t drain in clay... you end up whid stunted plants if that ocurs...


wen you make a holle in clay/earth you sould fill it whid water befor domping in the soil for plants, to se how long it takes to drain- jorge cervante talks about this in one of his videos...

beffor you dig them big holes chek that id say

You could grow organic for free dude...look into fermented plant extracts (especially stinging nettles) and worm casting tea (and diy worm bins, of course). It's easy and practically free. Also, if you want to do a guerilla grow next year, get some landscaping fabric at your local garden center and make some growbags out of it (big ones), then take them to your spot and fill them up with as much plant material as you can (the stuff that's just growing around your spot). Let it rot over the winter, but add some blended fish and some other food scraps into it first. Also maybe some woodchips or sawdust. This way you can make lots of high quality soil for free, and you don't even need to drag it all the way to your grow spot! Plus, the growbags have excellent drainage and air prunes the roots. I've done it this way and also by digging holes on clay soil, and filling them with potting soil. I have to say, the digging holes method is a LOT of work for relatively little reward.