So my problem here is i was looking a my plants and i see to little white bugs with antler likes thing on them they where very small and running around the rim of one of my pots so i killed them and inspected more and found quite a few in the soil i tried using neem oil spray and it didn't seem to have any effect help would be well appreciated.
Bugs!!! help please
- Thread starter BigO91
- Start date
HeartlandHank
Well-Known Member
that's fucking terrible news man.
Are the antlers more like horns? Dual exhaust? Maybe im jumping to conclusions, but sounds like You have root aphids... i had those summer of 2010, i contemplated suicide. Haha.
Are they tiny, whitish, round/pear shaped?
What stages of growth are you in? All plants...
Geronimo420
Well-Known Member
If you're realy stuck with root aphids (see pix) Use Azatrol it will solve the problem at once. After ingesting Azatrol an insect cant feed. They feel full all the time. The insects cannot shed their skin to molt, and they cant form apupae. Ultimately the insects end up paralyzed and they die.
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chickenpoop
Well-Known Member
look up fungus gnats, just had them recently, problem fixed with a product called DE, Diatamacious Earth.
chickenpoop
Well-Known Member
Root Aphid Info
Root aphids colonize and suck juices from roots in many mediums including rockwool, “grow rocks”, coco, and soil. If plants
appear to wilt, to have stunted growth, or have unhealthily coloured foliage and lose leaves prematurely, and the normal problems (pH,
over-watering, nutrient levels, etc.) are not responsible, then suspect root aphids. Root aphids are voracious eaters, and are known to
be persistent, so it requires some discipline to eliminate them. Some experts suggest treatment every other day, for a minimum
of six treatments.
Root Aphids are small light green or off-white oval-like creatures with or without wings, which live on the roots of plants. Just like their
counterparts above ground, they feed by sucking sap, but from roots instead of stems or leaves. There are several species of Phemphigus
(root aphids), and unfortunately, when they are feeding in the soil there are few, if any, winged adults around to warn you. Many times
root aphids will apear with or without wings, but in either case will not fly.
Once a problem has been identified with the plants, the first thing growers will notice on the infected root system is the white wax that
looks like snow-flocking covering the infected spot. The affected roots often split. Root aphids tend to build up populations at the edge
of rootballs. Female aphids give live birth to nymphs, and a clustering of aphids builds up on concentrated areas of the root system. Small
populations are not a problem; however, when populations become high, the plants are reduced in vigor.
Azatrol:
After ingesting Azatrol an insect can’t feed. They feel full all the time. The insects cannot shed their skin to molt, and they can’t form a
pupae. Ultimately the insects end up paralyzed and they die. See other ---Info Sheet--- on Azatrol/Patrol for more information.
Azatrol Application Rates:
Start with 1-2 gallons of Reverse Osmosis (purified) water and add Azatrol (1-2 oz. for every 20 gallons in the reservoir.) Mix it well inside
the bucket, and then add the concentrated solution to the reservoir. Mix into your reservoir. Example: In a 20 gallon reservoir one would
mix 1-2 oz. of Azatrol in a separate container of 1-2 gallons of water and then add that concentrate into the reservoir. Mix well.
Use every week in hydro or soil (1-2 oz.to 20 gallons) and then after control is established, maybe every other week as a preventative. We
recommend using with Patrol for an even more lethal combination.
In the reservoir Azatrol may raise the ppms by 100-200 ppms but Azatrol is all OMRI organic stuff and it is not a fertilizer, so it’s not that
big of a deal if the ppms are raised. Every garden is different so monitor your plants and adjust if necessary.
Green light Tree and Shrub Systemic:
Green Light Systemic uses a nicotine derivative to control aphids. It is called imidacloprid and it works. It should be used as a
systemic feeding to plants over time. Ideally start using before population is too Large.
GreenLight Tree and Shrub Systemic Application Rates:
Apply 1 - 3 tsp./ Gal. Soak the roots.
Bonide Systemic:
This is the harshest stuff that we have found. It will kill larvae, root aphids, and just about anything else in the medium. Make sure
you apply, then FLUSH 3-5 hours after application. Apply to one plant first, then apply to rest of garden.
Systemic killer Application Rates:
Mix 1oz. per 10 Gallons of solution or 1/2 oz. per 5 Gal. After application, make sure to FLUSH 4-5 hours later. Repeat as necessary.
Nematodes:
These microscopic worms are pretty awesome. They only effect soft-bellied insects like fungus gnat larvae (no animals - so don’t worry!)
Nematodes get sucked up into the guts of the larvae, and begin to colonize and multiply and multiply and multiply until they finally burst
open the stomach of the larvae (dealing it out a very nasty death) and releasing more nematode colonies into the medium in the process.
Nematode Application Rates:
Apply 1 Million (1 packet) Nematodes per each “grow light” in your grow space. Each packet of nematodes is dropped and mixed into a
1 Gallon container of water (pH as normal) then hand applied to each plant. Then remove sponge and toss into reservoir.
Root aphids colonize and suck juices from roots in many mediums including rockwool, “grow rocks”, coco, and soil. If plants
appear to wilt, to have stunted growth, or have unhealthily coloured foliage and lose leaves prematurely, and the normal problems (pH,
over-watering, nutrient levels, etc.) are not responsible, then suspect root aphids. Root aphids are voracious eaters, and are known to
be persistent, so it requires some discipline to eliminate them. Some experts suggest treatment every other day, for a minimum
of six treatments.
Root Aphids are small light green or off-white oval-like creatures with or without wings, which live on the roots of plants. Just like their
counterparts above ground, they feed by sucking sap, but from roots instead of stems or leaves. There are several species of Phemphigus
(root aphids), and unfortunately, when they are feeding in the soil there are few, if any, winged adults around to warn you. Many times
root aphids will apear with or without wings, but in either case will not fly.
Once a problem has been identified with the plants, the first thing growers will notice on the infected root system is the white wax that
looks like snow-flocking covering the infected spot. The affected roots often split. Root aphids tend to build up populations at the edge
of rootballs. Female aphids give live birth to nymphs, and a clustering of aphids builds up on concentrated areas of the root system. Small
populations are not a problem; however, when populations become high, the plants are reduced in vigor.
Azatrol:
After ingesting Azatrol an insect can’t feed. They feel full all the time. The insects cannot shed their skin to molt, and they can’t form a
pupae. Ultimately the insects end up paralyzed and they die. See other ---Info Sheet--- on Azatrol/Patrol for more information.
Azatrol Application Rates:
Start with 1-2 gallons of Reverse Osmosis (purified) water and add Azatrol (1-2 oz. for every 20 gallons in the reservoir.) Mix it well inside
the bucket, and then add the concentrated solution to the reservoir. Mix into your reservoir. Example: In a 20 gallon reservoir one would
mix 1-2 oz. of Azatrol in a separate container of 1-2 gallons of water and then add that concentrate into the reservoir. Mix well.
Use every week in hydro or soil (1-2 oz.to 20 gallons) and then after control is established, maybe every other week as a preventative. We
recommend using with Patrol for an even more lethal combination.
In the reservoir Azatrol may raise the ppms by 100-200 ppms but Azatrol is all OMRI organic stuff and it is not a fertilizer, so it’s not that
big of a deal if the ppms are raised. Every garden is different so monitor your plants and adjust if necessary.
Green light Tree and Shrub Systemic:
Green Light Systemic uses a nicotine derivative to control aphids. It is called imidacloprid and it works. It should be used as a
systemic feeding to plants over time. Ideally start using before population is too Large.
GreenLight Tree and Shrub Systemic Application Rates:
Apply 1 - 3 tsp./ Gal. Soak the roots.
Bonide Systemic:
This is the harshest stuff that we have found. It will kill larvae, root aphids, and just about anything else in the medium. Make sure
you apply, then FLUSH 3-5 hours after application. Apply to one plant first, then apply to rest of garden.
Systemic killer Application Rates:
Mix 1oz. per 10 Gallons of solution or 1/2 oz. per 5 Gal. After application, make sure to FLUSH 4-5 hours later. Repeat as necessary.
Nematodes:
These microscopic worms are pretty awesome. They only effect soft-bellied insects like fungus gnat larvae (no animals - so don’t worry!)
Nematodes get sucked up into the guts of the larvae, and begin to colonize and multiply and multiply and multiply until they finally burst
open the stomach of the larvae (dealing it out a very nasty death) and releasing more nematode colonies into the medium in the process.
Nematode Application Rates:
Apply 1 Million (1 packet) Nematodes per each “grow light” in your grow space. Each packet of nematodes is dropped and mixed into a
1 Gallon container of water (pH as normal) then hand applied to each plant. Then remove sponge and toss into reservoir.
HeartlandHank
Well-Known Member
I was able to eradicate. It took much effort. I had a heavy infestation. Plants were dying, quickly.
I basically finished one flowering tent up by doing soil drenches with Pyganic EC 1.4 and a little Azamax. The other flower tent, I just cut the plants down and said fuck it. They were about week 4 of flower.
Then I took clones from my mothers (that were still alive), dipped them in Pyganic Ec 1.4, and took them to another end of the house to root.
Then I turned my room upside down with an intense cleaning, very intense. I threw away a bit of equipment, not a ton, just stuff that was not worth cleaning as I already had so much to do. I sprayed down trays and resevoirs, after cleaning, with a cypermethrin spray. Ortho Home Guard. Let it dry while storing until i set up again. Then I washed them again to remove the cypermethrin. I also sprayed the walls of the tents and the room with cypermethrin, but left it to dry.
Then I bombed my room with Hot Shot Flea and Bed Bug, 3 times, on about three day intervals.
Then cleaned the room again.
Bombed again.
Then transplanted rooted cutting and treated them with Merit 75 (imid) at full strength.
Then reintroduced the clones back to the room to start the cycles again. I bombed a few more times while the clones were growing out to mothers. It shut down my grow for months.
I have not seen them in 2years. I tried to some half measures before doing all of this. I had them for months. Before I went with this plan, they were killing mothers and causing lots of damage to flowering plants. Treatments of Azamax only set them back for a few weeks. After about 3-4 treatments with Azamax, a treatment would only set them back about 5 days. I also treated with Takedown Garden Spray, as a drench. This also only set them back. A high strength drench of Pyganic EC 1.4, repeatedly, is very effective. But you have to treat with it many times. I ended up going through 3 bottles before the ordeal was done. But I had a ton of plants at that time.
I treated with Merit 75 as an extra measure. I think they might have not come back without it. But reading around the web, not many success stories are out there that do not include Imidicalprolid of some form.
Many people are really against Imid. If used properly, it is totally safe. To be real, if you purchase non organic produce from a grocery store... then you are exposed to it already. Just don't use it less than 65 days before harvest.
If you are seeing the root aphids, then your infestation is pretty bad.
Note: Pyganic EC 1.4 and Evergreen have the same two active ingredients, but different proportions
If you cannot afford Merit 75... I'll send you enough to do what you need. The bottle is like a lifetime supply. I'll never use it all. You'll need to acquire a label for instructions. google...
HeartlandHank
Well-Known Member
What is that? A rust mite? Some sort of soil mite...
Do they look like this?
physiologia
Member
1 - 2 ounces of azamax in 10- 20 gallons in a feed to waste (non-recirculating) system
IS NOT ENOUGH TO KILL ROOT APHIDS
IS NOT ENOUGH TO KILL ROOT APHIDS
HeartlandHank
Well-Known Member
Not a chance... IME, 1-2 oz per gallon is not enough...
Eyes towards the sky
Member
Newbie here looking to solve a leave eating problem. Ive noticed lets say a half dozen leaves with holes or edges missing. One has slight yellowing. My plant is unknown variety and 3 feet tall. 2 months or just over in age. First frost is about 4 to 7 weeks away. Iive bought some "Bonide All Season Spray oil" and from what i read the oil after mixing it is sprayed onto plant. I was looking for Neem oil but cant find any. Heres my worry- i Googled the Bonide i purchased with reference to using on my Mary jane plant and BANG !!! Nothin but negative about using the Bonide. What the hell do i do now?? Never thought there was so much involved with a little Parkinsons and back ailment medicine. I have noticed what looks like soot on the base//truck of the plant. Little black specks. Also there haave been 3 what i think are aphids ? Wedge shapped insect thats fast! I go to grab one and it scoots arounnd tthe other side of the plat or hops away. Found 2 green ones and one brown. I killed two. I have some pics i,m going to try to post.
Eyes towards the sky
Member
Heres a few pics .The first picture is with a flash on. I took these 1 hour before sunset . Not sure if anyone can see the chewed leaves. This is really all new to me so i cant even reallly tell if its started to flower.
Metasynth
Well-Known Member
The picture I posted is a beneficial mite called hypoaspis miles. It lives in the top layer of the soil, and eats fungus gnat larvae, thrips eggs and larvae, and other soil dwelling pest. They're a good bug, but their presence generally means you have other pests present that they are feasting on.
hiluxphantom
Well-Known Member
pretty sure u have a caterpilliar or something go find some neem oil n keep it sprayed to repell anything
Eyes towards the sky
Member
Thanks for the info! Ive been trying to locate neem oil but nothing around. I bought some"Bonide All Season Spray oil" and then i googled this stuff and it came back with terrible feedback for weed. I,m going to returrn it. Its over 90 percent mineral oil concentrate.
hiluxphantom
Well-Known Member
dyna gro sells some u would need to go to a hydro store or someplace online. amazon.com probably has some
Dice Clay
Active Member
Honestly sounds like a slug or some such creature
In my experienceDiatomaceous Earth or a product called "sluggo" is the best way to safely (for animals and you) to get rid of slimy and non-slimy creatures that feed on your precious ladies! The Diatomaceous earth makes it impossible for them to travel over due to its texture and consistency.Now for the spider mites (black dots) A great product is Bon Neem.. it is a pyrethrum/neem compound that is meant for edible herbs and spices. I have used this to GREAT success.
Otherwise they look good! Good luck to you!