bud rot pathogens

i was browsing the interwebs, doing some research and stuff and stumbled upon this paper released less than a year ago.

its detailed work and also has photos which made me realized i had fusarium bud rot before.

abstract

Bud rot pathogens cause diseases on Cannabis sativa L. (cannabis, hemp) worldwide through pre- and post-harvest infections of the inflorescence. Seven indoor or outdoor cannabis production sites and three hemp fields were sampled for bud rot and stem canker presence during 2019–2020. Among 178 isolates recovered from diseased tissues, sequences of the ITS1-5.8S-ITS2 region of rDNA, the glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase (G3PDH) gene and the heat shock 60 (HSP) gene identified the following: Botrytis cinerea (162 isolates), B. pseudocinerea(2), B. porri (1), Sclerotinia sclerotiorum (5), Diaporthe eres (3) and Fusarium graminearum (5). Pathogenicity studies conducted on fresh detached cannabis buds inoculated with spore suspensions or mycelial plugs showed that B. cinerea, S. sclerotiorum and F. graminearum were the most virulent, while B. pseudocinerea, B. porri and D. eres caused significantly less bud rot. Optimal growth of Botrytis species occurred at 15–25°C. In vitro antagonism tests showed that Bacillus spp., Trichoderma asperellum and Gliocladium catenulatum inhibited B. cinerea and S. sclerotiorum colony growth. When applied as a spray 48 h prior to B. cinerea inoculation, all biocontrol agents significantly (P < 0.01) reduced disease development on detached inflorescences. Prolific growth and sporulation of T. asperellum and G. catenulatum were observed on bud tissues. The pathogens B. porri, S. sclerotiorum, D. eres and F. graminearumare described for the first time as cannabis bud rot pathogens. Inoculum from neighbouring fields of diseased garlic, cabbage, blueberry and hay pasture, respectively, likely initiated infection of inflorescences. Several biological control agents show potential for disease reduction through competitive exclusion.

link to the study

I had good results with this. Fusarium was endemic in the garden for years, got none in any of the tomatoes, pot, peppers.
Gliocladium catenulatum

i cant get that stuff over here where i live but seems like it may worth a go eventhough i feel very reserved about spraying established buds but since its an antifungal maybe that would be ok is it harmful to smoke? (i wouldnt think so)

crimsonecho said:

i cant get that stuff over here where i live but seems like it may worth a go eventhough i feel very reserved about spraying established buds but since its an antifungal maybe that would be ok is it harmful to smoke? (i wouldnt think so)

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The spore count drops after application, its byproducts are not toxic.

ok then good stuff bro thanks eventhough i can’t get my hands on this stuff maybe someone else could see benefits from it

DCcan said:

I had good results with this. Fusarium was endemic in the garden for years, got none in any of the tomatoes, pot, peppers.
Gliocladium catenulatum

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DCcan said:

I had good results with this. Fusarium was endemic in the garden for years, got none in any of the tomatoes, pot, peppers.
Gliocladium catenulatum

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@DCcan Are you using this as a preventative, or after noticing symptoms? If as a preventative, at what stage of the cannabis plant's life are you starting application? Do you apply it as a foliar spray or is it a systemic product? Thanks.

Buds N Brew said:

@DCcan Are you using this as a preventative, or after noticing symptoms? If as a preventative, at what stage of the cannabis plant's life are you starting application? Do you apply it as a foliar spray or is it a systemic product? Thanks.

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You want to use it long before you get symptoms. You can inoculate the plant and soil at any stage, but early is better.

In the garden, apply it to the soil as soon as the soil gets ~42f/5c, before pathogens can repopulate. You can put it on at any time , it has no problem repopulating at any temperature. It can live on in the soil, leaves or roots.

I do a foliar application in veg, another dose when pistils came out, then about 3 weeks, then closer foliar sprays at the end depending on weather.
Alternate it with any other microbes like Botanigard (B.Bassiana), since it will eat that too.
You can spray it on ajacent bushes, trees and border plants as well, anything that harbors powdery mildew or other pathogens.

Indoors, I just do foliar since medium has been treated months earlier.

DCcan said:

You want to use it long before you get symptoms. You can inoculate the plant and soil at any stage, but early is better.

In the garden, apply it to the soil as soon as the soil gets 42f/5c, before pathogens can repopulate. You can put it on at any time , it has no problem repopulating at any temperature. It can live on in the soil, leaves or roots.

I do a foliar application in veg, another dose when pistils came out, then about 3 weeks, then closer foliar sprays at the end depending on weather.
Alternate it with any other microbes like Botanigard (B.Bassiana), since it will eat that too.
You can spay it on ajacent bushes, trees and border plants as well, anything that harbors powdery mildew or other pathogens.

Indoors, I just do foliar since medium has been treated months earlier.

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Thanks for the info @DCcan!

DCcan said:

You want to use it long before you get symptoms. You can inoculate the plant and soil at any stage, but early is better.

In the garden, apply it to the soil as soon as the soil gets ~42f/5c, before pathogens can repopulate. You can put it on at any time , it has no problem repopulating at any temperature. It can live on in the soil, leaves or roots.

I do a foliar application in veg, another dose when pistils came out, then about 3 weeks, then closer foliar sprays at the end depending on weather.
Alternate it with any other microbes like Botanigard (B.Bassiana), since it will eat that too.
You can spray it on ajacent bushes, trees and border plants as well, anything that harbors powdery mildew or other pathogens.

Indoors, I just do foliar since medium has been treated months earlier.

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@DCcan I have a couple of other questions if you don't mind. If I use LALSTOP G46wg in soil, will it coexist with beneficial microbes? Also, you mentioned another product called Botanigard ES. Will the LALSTOP interfere with the effectiveness of the Botanigard? How often during your grow season are you applying Botanigard and are you using it as a preventative or a treatment? Thank you for indulging my questions.

For the first time in my many years of growing I ended up with a bit of bud rot. only effected one plant and I ended up trashing about 2.5 zips of flower. luckily the total harvest was over 20 ounces so the hit wasn't bad, but it really got my attention. time to go over my space with a fine toothed comb and look for the source of the problem.

Buds N Brew said:

@DCcan I have a couple of other questions if you don't mind. If I use LALSTOP G46wg in soil, will it coexist with beneficial microbes? Also, you mentioned another product called Botanigard ES. Will the LALSTOP interfere with the effectiveness of the Botanigard? How often during your grow season are you applying Botanigard and are you using it as a preventative or a treatment? Thank you for indulging my questions.

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That's why you put it on early in the spring, so that it does it's thing with a massive spore count at application, blooms, then reaches equilibruim with other beneficial microbes in the soil. It will colonize the roots like mycos and keep less hardy things off, for sure.

Just alternate them, why make them fight over the same food or each other? They are both hyperparasitic, they eat other pathogens like botrysis. They both can colonze the plant at the same time, you just take turns applying it since you are trying to cover every bit of surface with an application.

I don't have a set scedule, that never works. Follow the weather and the bugs
If it's wretched humid, and rain is expected for days, and there's buds then I spray LalStop. It's preventive IPM, not a treatment...
When the rain passes, I re apply some Bt-k right away, then put Botanigard back on a couple days later, let it bloom for a while.
Then do another LalStop in 10-21 days depending on what the weather, bugs and buds are doing.

If it's arid, then neither will bloom since they need humidity, so I switch over to Regalia for preventive IPM with Venerate or citric acid.

DCcan said:

That's why you put it on early in the spring, so that it does it's thing with a massive spore count at application, blooms, then reaches equilibruim with other beneficial microbes in the soil. It will colonize the roots like mycos and keep less hardy things off, for sure.

Just alternate them, why make them fight over the same food or each other? They are both hyperparasitic, they eat other pathogens like botrysis. They both can colonze the plant at the same time, you just take turns applying it since you are trying to cover every bit of surface with an application.

I don't have a set scedule, that never works. Follow the weather and the bugs
If it's wretched humid, and rain is expected for days, and there's buds then I spray LalStop. It's preventive IPM, not a treatment...
When it passes, I re apply some Bt-k right away, then put Botanigard back on a couple days later, let it bloom for a while.
Then do another LalStop in 10-21 days depending on what the weather, bugs and buds are doing.

If it's arid, then neither will bloom since they need humidity, so I switch over to Regalia for preventive IPM with Venerate or citric acid.

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Thanks.

The Botanigard(b.bassiana) is mostly for pests like aphids, but it has other benefits as well. Sorry I mis read that part.
It stimulates plant growth and also prevents other pathogens from growing, just like trichoderma harzianum.
Tank mixing with permethrins is the best way to use it, up until the pistils start coming in.

DCcan said:

The Botanigard(b.bassiana) is mostly for pests like aphids, but it has other benefits as well. Sorry I mis read that part.
It stimulates plant growth and also prevents other pathogens from growing, just like trichoderma harzianum.
Tank mixing with permethrins is the best way to use it, up until the pistils start coming in.

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You must be using this on a large scale. I was hoping to just mix it in a spray bottle and mist it on the plants (I only have two outdoor cannabis plants). Will that work ok?

Buds N Brew said:

You must be using this on a large scale. I was hoping to just mix it in a spray bottle and mist it on the plants (I only have two outdoor cannabis plants). Will that work ok?

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Yea, sure.
Tank mix is just a term, not a scale.
Means 2 compatible or synergystic things can be sprayed at the same time in the same solution.
The reason permethrin is added is to soften the shell on an insect, then the fungus can colonize at a much higher mortality rate.

DCcan said:

Yea, sure.
Tank mix is just a term, not a scale.
Means 2 compatible or synergystic things can be sprayed at the same time in the same solution.
The reason permethrin is added is to soften the shell on an insect, then the fungus can colonize at a much higher mortality rate.

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Got it. Last question. Do you think the addition of a non-ionic surfactant would improve efficacy?

Buds N Brew said:

Got it. Last question. Do you think the addition of a non-ionic surfactant would improve efficacy?

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The dry powder mixes, yes.
Liquid solutions like ES, probably not much if at all, it's already got an emulsifier added. I haven't used the liquid form.