Bridgelux Vesta super tuneable strip build

Zokko

Well-Known Member
it's finally done.

8 Vesta 2ft strips. Each channel has its own 185W 24V driver that will run up to 975ma.

this let's me run either 2700k or 5000k on its own or in combination to get anything in between. While these strips can technically take full blast on both channels, I will only run 975ma max between both channels so it always going to be run @ 185W or less.

rails are those $1 led channels chopped in half to be 2ft each. 500mm crossbar/housing for the terminal blocks is from my aluminum supplier.

rails are attached to the crossbar using m6 allen head machine bolts that have a hollow 3.2mm center and allow to pass wires through them.

used a 4 conductor cable as my extension so that I only had one cord to run. if I decide later to only use 1 driver, I can easily swap to our normal Vesta setup and just add another parallel set of wagos to connect either or both channels as needed.

total cost was @ $150 since I got a deal on the rails and drivers.

it's 3am and I need to wake up for work but hopefully will get this hung tomorrow night. this is going into a 2x3 tent.

@Rocket Soul @GrassBurner @Pparker88 @SBBCal @MidnightSun72

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Amazing piece of work!

It looks like it was made by Apple. :D
 

grotbags

Well-Known Member
first flower light i built, 2:1 mix of 3000k + 5000k lm301b + cree/osram 630 monos + 660 monos + 730 monos, 4ft x 4ft, 5 channel, remote drivers.

went with a soldered wiring loom on this one as i didnt want a load of wagos hanging about. drivers look a bit over kill at first (everything on full is approx 65+ watt a sqft) but the 5000k channel is pulled right back in flower and everything else never gets to 100% apart from the 730 monos.

730nm far red diode spread...
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630, 660, 730 diode placement
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MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
first flower light i built, 2:1 mix of 3000k + 5000k lm301b + cree/osram 630 monos + 660 monos + 730 monos, 4ft x 4ft, 5 channel, remote drivers.

went with a soldered wiring loom on this one as i didnt want a load of wagos hanging about. drivers look a bit over kill at first (everything on full is approx 65+ watt a sqft) but the 5000k channel is pulled right back in flower and everything else never gets to 100% apart from the 730 monos.

730nm far red diode spread...
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630, 660, 730 diode placement
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Dude this shit makes me wants to set my lights on fire and start over. Fucking nice job.
 

SBBCal

Well-Known Member
first flower light i built, 2:1 mix of 3000k + 5000k lm301b + cree/osram 630 monos + 660 monos + 730 monos, 4ft x 4ft, 5 channel, remote drivers.

went with a soldered wiring loom on this one as i didnt want a load of wagos hanging about. drivers look a bit over kill at first (everything on full is approx 65+ watt a sqft) but the 5000k channel is pulled right back in flower and everything else never gets to 100% apart from the 730 monos.

730nm far red diode spread...
View attachment 4929862

630, 660, 730 diode placement
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I guess it's 3D printer time lol . Didn't even think of that for wire management. Is yours reasonable? Link please... :weed:
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
I guess it's 3D printer time lol . Didn't even think of that for wire management. Is yours reasonable? Link please... :weed:
Lol I've already been shopping the Prusa mk3 for a few months now....

A few plastic end caps and brackets 3D printed can bring up any design quite a few levels in finish.

I was even looking into 3d printing heat sinks. But the substrates they have for that are wildly expensive still and not very good at sinking.
 

grotbags

Well-Known Member
Lol I've already been shopping the Prusa mk3 for a few months now....

A few plastic end caps and brackets 3D printed can bring up any design quite a few levels in finish.

I was even looking into 3d printing heat sinks. But the substrates they have for that are wildly expensive still and not very good at sinking.
the prusa's are a great printer i have had zero issues with mine, it just works...

on the next two builds i went a bit 3d print crazy lol...
 

welight

Well-Known Member
Recently brought a Creality CR6 with touch screen and auto bed levelling for AUD399 shipped, its a cracking little printer, barely hear it, its so quiet

just did a custom 4ft design, going to be putting these into the base of moulded trays for racking systems, Cree JB2835, 2700K, Lumileds 660 and 450, 3 channels
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ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Recently brought a Creality CR6 with touch screen and auto bed levelling for AUD399 shipped, its a cracking little printer, barely hear it, its so quiet

just did a custom 4ft design, going to be putting these into the base of moulded trays for racking systems, Cree JB2835, 2700K, Lumileds 660 and 450, 3 channels
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turning into one of my favorite RIU threads yet.

we may need another Tshirt design for a more general "multi channel tuneable LED gang" lol

such cool designs. giving me all sorts of ideas!
 

grotbags

Well-Known Member
next up is my ill fated meshtek build, unfortunatley i couldnt get the meshteks to play nice so it ended up getting scrapped.

for this light i had mark at cutter customise me some of his boundary rider v2 strips.
i had 30 made with cree 2700k 90cri on channel 1 + 2 and a uva mix (365nm,380nm,395nm) on channel 3.
25 with nichia optisolis 5000k on channel 1, nichia 2000k on channel 2 and 730nm on channel 3.
20 made with cree 2700k 90cri on channel 1 + 2, and a red/blue fill in/boost (415nm,480nm,660nm) on channel 3.

the idea was to build 5 seperate 6 channel lights each using a mix of the above strips, each light used 2 drivers and 2 meshteks, 1 meshtek and driver for the white channels and 1 driver and meshtek for the mono channels.

(a meshtek controller is a bluetooth based controller/pwm dimmer/power divider, basicaly it lets you use one driver to power up to 4 different channels all controllable/dimmable/schedulable by a phone app)

anyway i couldnt get the meshteks to play nice with the wattage i needed to use, i had white channels sticking on uncontrollable from the app, they ran quite hot and even had a bit of magic smoke from one meshtek, so they were scrapped and it was back to the drawing board but not before a considerable amount of work...

i wanted to hide all my wires on this build so the 3d printer was put to work...and i mean put to work!...

endap to house the wagos, wire tunnel, heatsink to frame bracket...
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loco41

Well-Known Member
turning into one of my favorite RIU threads yet.

we may need another Tshirt design for a more general "multi channel tuneable LED gang" lol

such cool designs. giving me all sorts of ideas!
Agreed, thanks for kicking it all off. I was happy I finally zip tied some strips to some wire baking racks but seeing all this makes me want to step my game up.

Look forward to seeing how you utilize the vesta's though. I have a few different Kelvin and cri strips that I plan on mixing and matching down the road so will be nice to see something similar in action.
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Just ordering some connectors. I've never use wagos before. But I want to get the 221 slim kind.

I am wondering if I am using 18AWG solid wire can I cram like 2-3 wires in one hole? Just trying to figure out connectors. But trying to get away with the smallest fittings so I can tuck away more easily into my frame.
 

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Just ordering some connectors. I've never use wagos before. But I want to get the 221 slim kind.

I am wondering if I am using 18AWG solid wire can I cram like 2-3 wires in one hole? Just trying to figure out connectors. But trying to get away with the smallest fittings so I can tuck away more easily into my frame.
never tried that before but I will in an hr or so once I'm home and report back
 

SBBCal

Well-Known Member
Just ordering some connectors. I've never use wagos before. But I want to get the 221 slim kind.

I am wondering if I am using 18AWG solid wire can I cram like 2-3 wires in one hole? Just trying to figure out connectors. But trying to get away with the smallest fittings so I can tuck away more easily into my frame.
May need to strip the wire up farther to fit 2. And make sure you have connection , otherwise when you go to light up and shits not lit , then you gotta start over and check each bs wago for the fault. I'd look at terminal blocks like reggae linked earlier . Much easier and stable . Thanks again @ilovereggae for the idea of those... :joint:B6C3DA16-84FB-4633-8F24-696DBAE26E9B.jpeg
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
May need to strip the wire up farther to fit 2. And make sure you have connection , otherwise when you go to light up and shits not lit , then you gotta start over and check each bs wago for the fault. I'd look at terminal blocks like reggae linked earlier . Much easier and stable . Thanks again @ilovereggae for the idea of those... :joint:View attachment 4932072
Thx for the info. My 8 light I did were using terminal block exactly like the ones you've used in this pic.
 

grotbags

Well-Known Member
Just ordering some connectors. I've never use wagos before. But I want to get the 221 slim kind.

I am wondering if I am using 18AWG solid wire can I cram like 2-3 wires in one hole? Just trying to figure out connectors. But trying to get away with the smallest fittings so I can tuck away more easily into my frame.
you will get two 18awg wires in ok but they must be seated right otherwise the wago will not grip correctly, i wouldnt even attempt three...
 
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