Bridgelux EB Series Build

M

MajorAce

Well-Known Member
muleface said:
so i have been running 10, 3500k 4 foot bridgelux strips now for about 2 months, i have to say, Im not impressed. They cover an area of about 3x4, They seem to be ok if they are just about touching the plants, but once you go a few inches from the strips the light drops off like a rock. I am running them at around 60 watt each. I am really irritated about saying this, but my best results are coming from my Vero 29 cobs, where are way to fn expensive to massively scale out. I have a 2- 3x12 tables and am thinking about selling off all my LED and moving to, (head drops in shame) CMH.
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Chip Green said:
I think one drawback, especially at higher than the 700ma nominal current, is exactly what you are describing....the penetration for larger areas can be considered insufficient.
The intensity does fall off rapidly when they aren't packed together, to get the LUX levels customized to my structure, I had to have more strips concentrated at the 700ma range....
I have the 2 of the MW 240h-700 drivers running 15x 2ft strips each, in about the same area 3x8.
There's sort of a point of diminishing return, having to buy more strips and use less current to get the saturation high enough.
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Chip isn't Muleface running 25% more diodes is the same area as you at a higher current? I don't understand your reply. Not implying anything just trying to make sense of it all.

Muleface at 1050 wouldnt your strips be closer to 45w a strip?

Again sorry for all the questions just trying to pick it all up.
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
Yeah Major, I completely misunderstood, even confused myself.... I must have been thinking he had 10x 4ft strips in a 3x8, not a 3x4.....
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
I fucked up the positioning of the strips, when I mounted them with thermal tape. I want to correct it, because it makes my wiring complicated now...

But I was not able to take the strips of at all. Tape is working... I tried with a knife, to take them off, no chance!

Does anyone has a trick for me, how to get the strips off again?
@Randomblame ? :)
 
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Crazaer

Crazaer

Active Member
Sorry this isn't Bridgelux, but I've seen other non-Bridgelux posts here.
I have six Samsung SI-B8T07128SWW (S282F) with one Meanwell HLG-60H-C700A that I planned to build into a angle aluminum unit, before I got sidetracked and packed the parts into storage. I'm ready to assemble now, and it occurred to me the I may want to upsize.

How many of those strips could I practically run off that driver?
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
With parallel wiring alot!

With series wiring I think around 9 strips (without samsungs calculator, just from what I see in the data sheet).
 
Crazaer

Crazaer

Active Member
Thank you Serva!
As any new strips are likely from a different batch, I think it is safer to series wire them.
Is the estimate of 9 strips closer to 8, or closer to 10?
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
3.5 LMBS

3.5 LMBS

Member
@muleface, I'm a big fan of your dedicated research in the 'COB Users:Lettuce Grow Challenge', thanks for allowing me to watch and learn!bongsmilie...and you are absolutely correct about the intensity dropping off unfortunately quickly;-)

nfhiggs said:
Have you taken any light level readings under them? Either PAR or Lux?
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There's surprisingly not much difference in accuracy between a PAR reading on an Apogee and a LUX measurement on a decent LUX meter when it comes to measuring LEDs

https://www.apogeeinstruments.co.uk/light-intensity-measurements-for-light-emitting-diodes-leds/

They word it politely, but if you look at their sensor's response as opposed to the PAR spectrum(2nd graphic down) and then their admitted error% in the chart above, you can see what I mean. I hope:smile: So while it's not in PAR, I have done some measuring;-)

graying.geek said:
This is what I want to see; readings at the tops or canopy.
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Thanks for your strippin & scroggin' thread GG, i appreciate the info in it and the good nature of it...I'm still subbed up:bigjoint:

Well I usually just sponge info@RIU, but apparently this is a chance for me, myself &I to give something back to the fine folks here.

As requested - note that I do not conduct 'experiments' in a scientific nature. I smoke ganja heavily and, this time, fiddled with a ruler, LUX meter, pencil and paper.

-Testing Equipment:
Taken with a consistant, 200,000k digital LUX meter

-Testing Area:
27 x 18 inch cabinet (3.375 sq feet)

-Light configuration as tested: (will try and get a pic up soon of it, been BUSY)
8 x 560mm EBs @3K
HLG-120H-C700A @700mA

@700mA, units expressed as LUX
.5" 100K
1" 65K
1.5" 60K
2" 55K
3" 50K
4" 42.5K
6" 35K
6.5" 30K
-Further away than that, why bother. This IS a flowering cab and I'm about that PPFD :hump:

Strips are only 0.75" apart, 4 on each 'side' with a 2" gap in the middle. There are more strips than gaps obviously as is. It's a pretty dense diode arrangement.
I could have driven them higher and designed the fixture accordingly, however i'd prefer to add diodes and drop drive current personally :peace:
 
1

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Serva said:
I fucked up the positioning of the strips, when I mounted them with thermal tape. I want to correct it, because it makes my wiring complicated now...

But I was not able to take the strips of at all. Tape is working... I tried with a knife, to take them off, no chance!

Does anyone has a trick for me, how to get the strips off again?
@Randomblame ? :)
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I'd try pealing back one end a little then apply some solvent like lacquer thinner, acetone, adhesive remover etc. I plan to test that but a friend has my thermal tape, I set him up with strips and a driver for his shop. What tape did you use, got a link?
 
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