Bridgelux EB Series Build

Randomblame · Oct 26, 2017

ledpower said:
I ordered a 44" 5700k to play with and am fairly impressed with the output, it totally blows my agroled sunlight out of the water and I don't need a T5 lamp. I'm probably going to order a hundred or so to fill up a shipping container in the near future.

The leds are cheap but the meanwells are not and I would need alot of drivers. Has anyone tried running these with a toroidal transformer instead? I was thinking about doing a bridge rectified 35v 1000va toroidal transformer with a smoothing capacitor. This would give a clean 49 volts at 1000 watts and only cost about $100. I guess I would have to lose the 1 volt somewhere or use resistors to drop a volt. Has anyone here tried going this route instead of meanwells?

Hmm!
Not so many in the past 5 years but a few guys built successfully their own drivers. You need to search thru the thread list. It's an interesting project.

You need to account that the strip vf varies depending on the current their get but as long as each strip runs within it's limits I see no reason why it should not work.

Seshwaan · Oct 26, 2017

Hi all,

Looking for some advice to help with my build for a PC case if you wouldn;t mind.

Case is around 1sqft and am aiming for 6000 lumens.

I have already got 5 BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-A3 strips. Running at 350mA ( 50% efficiency) they give just over 6000 lumens running each strips at 7.7W for a combined 38.5 watts

https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-A3/976-1493-ND/6236279

Few questions I have -

-What driver would you guys recommend? I don;t need any room for expansion as 5 strips in the case is tight for space as it is. I don't have a pedomitor (probably butchered that spelling if it is even the right device) so would need one that is dimmable using a screwdriver

-What wires/connectors would I need to order for the wiring aspect?

-Would you guys recommend wiring in series or parallel for this? I appreciate this will probably depend on what driver is recommended?

Thanks in advance!

Kaneh_bosm · Oct 26, 2017

Randomblame said:
300w for 6ft² would be 50w/sft, thats a lot, well above 1200μ Mol/s and you will probably see signs of light stress if you run it at full power. 200w should be more than enough for only 6sf².

For 300w I would take 2 HLG-150H-48A(~2x 39$) or one HLG-320H-48A(~86$) with series-parallel connections.
But to make it more "future-proof" you could also use 2 HLG-240H-48A, which would be enough for a 4x 4' area. Maybe you want to sell them later and that makes it a lot easier to sell them.

If we use 6p2s circuits to create a fv of ~46 volts the 3,2A (from 1 HLG-150)results in 2x 147,2w net/158wall watts, 533mA per Strip.
The same circuit but on HLG-240's/5,2A x ~47 volts(will increase a bit because of higher current) = 2x 244,4w net./263wall watts, 867mA per Strip.
With only one HLG-320/6,7A and a 12p2s circuit, ~45v it would be 301,5w net./325wall watts, 560mA per Strip.

The most efficient build would be this where the strips gets the lowest current, so the 150w solution in this case.
But, these drivers are dimmable via 2 internal potis(1 for vF, 1 for current) and this allows you to reduce output within a large area. The current poti is dimmable between 50 and maybe 105%(yes between 2 and 8% more is usual).
Voltage is adjustable between 43-53v. So if you need less light and the current poti is already on the lowest level, simply try to regulate the voltage down to to the lowest voltage. Lowest output of an HLG-150H-48A would be 43v and 1,6Amps= ~69w.

Thank you kind sir! You've made my decision a lot easier

Randomblame · Oct 26, 2017

• I would go parallel and stay with 24v just for safety reasons.

• You could take a HLG-60H-24A(2,5A), which is dimmable with a small screwdriver between 30 and 60w's. (36$) This way the strips would get between 250 and 500mA. HLG-40H-24A costs exact the same and it's probably worth to have a few extra watts.
You could simply drill a Ø5mm hole in the PC case exact above the adjustment poti's on the drivers or you mount the driver on the backside. This would keep the driver-heat* out of the case and you have easy access to the built-in "potentiometers" for vf and current regulation.
*driver eff. is 91%, so 9% of the total wall watts are driver heat.

• For internal wiring between the strips I would recommend to use awg18 or awg20 solid core wire, because it's easier to plug it into the strip connectors. You need two 4" wires(black & red) to connect one strip parallel to another and additional 2 wires to go to the next strip, repeat this until all strips are connected. The first and the last strips will be connected to the dc output from the driver.

• To connect the driver to a wall plug use three 2-pole Wago clamps(1 for each N, L & G), they are relatively cheap and available at ebay/amazon. But there are lots of other options, for instance water proof earth connectors but most of them needs a soldered connection.

You want wiring examples..?
https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-build.928676/page-61#post-13864376

Randomblame · Oct 26, 2017

Kaneh_bosm said:
Thank you kind sir! You've made my decision a lot easier

Yeah, this was the intension!
And do not forget to share a few pics when you fire it up the first time...

Seshwaan · Oct 26, 2017

Randomblame said:
• I would go parallel and stay with 24v just for safety reasons.

• You could take a HLG-60H-24A(2,5A), which is dimmable with a small screwdriver between 30 and 60w's. (36$) This way the strips would get between 250 and 500mA. HLG-40H-24A costs exact the same and it's probably worth to have a few extra watts.
You could simply drill a Ø5mm hole in the PC case exact above the adjustment poti's on the drivers or you mount the driver on the backside. This would keep the driver-heat* out of the case and you have easy access to the built-in "potentiometers" for vf and current regulation.
*driver eff. is 91%, so 9% of the total wall watts are driver heat.

• For internal wiring between the strips I would recommend to use awg18 or awg20 solid core wire, because it's easier to plug it into the strip connectors. You need two 4" wires(black & red) to connect one strip parallel to another and additional 2 wires to go to the next strip, repeat this until all strips are connected. The first and the last strips will be connected to the dc output from the driver.

• To connect the driver to a wall plug use three 2-pole Wago clamps(1 for each N, L & G), they are relatively cheap and available at ebay/amazon. But there are lots of other options, for instance water proof earth connectors but most of them needs a soldered connection.

You want wiring examples..?
https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-build.928676/page-61#post-13864376

You are doing gods work my friend. Could not have asked for a better response, it is greatly appreciated.

I will look to order everything else I need next week and will be sure to post some pictures as I plan on doing a progress log for my whole case build anyway.

Kaneh_bosm · Oct 26, 2017

Randomblame said:
Yeah, this was the intension!
And do not forget to share a few pics when you fire it up the first time...

Sure will!

CanadianDank · Oct 26, 2017

Shit.

Aside from that, I have six strip light completed and one half done.
Will probably finish on the weekend, been super busy.
This one lights up mint though!

Chip Green · Oct 26, 2017

Oh dear ^^^
I haven't busted any diodes off (so far). The poke in connector caps, many casualties.

ledpower · Oct 26, 2017

Randomblame said:
Hmm!
Not so many in the past 5 years but a few guys built successfully their own drivers. You need to search thru the thread list. It's an interesting project.

You need to account that the strip vf varies depending on the current their get but as long as each strip runs within it's limits I see no reason why it should not work.

Still wrapping my head around limiting the current or going for 16 on each transformer and letting em burn bright.

Randomblame · Oct 27, 2017

ledpower said:
Still wrapping my head around limiting the current or going for 16 on each transformer and letting em burn bright.

Maybe with additional CC step down controllers like the Meanwell LDD's.
They have 3-52v inpout voltage and you can get them with currents from 350-1500mA and they are dimmable via pwm and you can also get pcb mountingboards to control up to 5 of these bucks in once.
You could also use a so called aquarium controller based on an Arduino this would make dimming a lot easier because of the built-in pwm pins. No extension boards needed because LDD and Arduino use the same 0-5v pwm dimming.
You could also make your own controller if you have the skills, lot's of controllers available like Strom-, Storm-X, HurricaneX-Controller and so on...

CanadianDank · Oct 28, 2017

Giday folks hope your enjoying your respective smokes

I just finished my 2 lights for my 4x4 tent.
They're each 6 1120mm 3000k Eb strips driven by a meanwell 320 1050 A for a combined total of 600w.

Will be hanging them tonight, and I'll post some pics once hung as well.

CanadianDank · Oct 28, 2017

Thanks to everyone posting in this thread, especially Danielson999 for answering my newb questions.

I learnt a lot doing this and can't wait to do it again. I'll definitely be doing a small seedling /clone light in the near future.

BuddyColas · Oct 28, 2017

CanadianDank said:
Giday folks hope your enjoying your respective smokes

I just finished my 2 lights for my 4x4 tent.
They're each 6 1120mm 3000k Eb strips driven by a meanwell 320 1050 A for a combined total of 600w.

Will be hanging them tonight, and I'll post some pics once hung as well.

View attachment 4034220 View attachment 4034221

Very clean open build. Plenty of air flow around the strips. So when you get it going, I would be interested in the voltage to the panel when you turn it on cold, and what the voltage to the panel is when she levels out temp. wise. The voltage droop. Thanks.

CanadianDank · Oct 28, 2017

BuddyColas said:
Very clean open build. Plenty of air flow around the strips. So when you get it going, I would be interested in the voltage to the panel when you turn it on cold, and what the voltage to the panel is when she levels out temp. wise. The voltage droop. Thanks.

I don't have any meters to check that with unfortunately

CanadianDank · Oct 28, 2017

It appears knocking a diode off may have caused every second one after it in a section to go out.
If not I'm not sure what's going on, look at the left light, it has a section on either side where only ever second diode lights properly.

Edit: Actually the right strip isn't even missing a diode so im not sure whats going on there, where every second one lights up only slightly..

They are wired in series with drivers slightly dimmed.

Any ideas?

ledpower · Oct 28, 2017

CanadianDank said:
It appears knocking a diode off may have caused every second one after it in a section to go out.
If not I'm not sure what's going on, look at the left light, it has a section on either side where only ever second diode lights properly.
View attachment 4034485

Edit: Actually the right strip isn't even missing a diode so im not sure whats going on there, where every second one lights up only slightly..

They are wired in series with drivers slightly dimmed.

Any ideas?

Looks pretty ace, can't you just put a bit of solder down on the missing diode to jump the current flow?

CanadianDank · Oct 28, 2017

ledpower said:
Looks pretty ace, can't you just put a bit of solder down on the missing diode to jump the current flow?

I'm not sure, I guess I could on the left hand side.
What do you think about the stretch where every second one lights up only slightly

ledpower · Oct 28, 2017

CanadianDank said:
I'm not sure, I guess I could on the left hand side.
What do you think about the stretch where every second one lights up only slightly

Looks like the circuit skips every 2 on that side. Might be shorting on the aluminum?

ledpower · Oct 28, 2017

ledpower said:
Looks like the circuit skips every 2 on that side. Might be shorting on the aluminum?

That screw hole looks really close to the circuit too...

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