Bored Mechanic - Got any car questions?

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
i just wanna drive!!!! :hump:


i hear you can crack them out pretty good, but if i do i will be wrenching on it every day. i can put on a different exhaust tuning pipe. i can change my impeller. add a race head. beef up my crank and drop in some new pistons. from what i understand though, these motors are factory tuned to perform at their best already. they aren't like a car that has laws and restrictions on performance and smog and what-not. they do have a computer chip that pretty much limits everything. they say if you want more out of your PWC to simply buy a bigger one.

i think i'll drop in a new crank for 300 dollars and call her "fixed". i'll replace all the gaskets and rebuild my carbs while i have it all torn down. should be back on the water by spring time.
 

rucca

Active Member
Sounds good to me - you have to spend serious $$$ to do performance the right way, just isn't worth it IMO
 

rucca

Active Member
i think i'll focus the big money on the wife's boat. once i buy her one. ;)


thank you for all your input. :eyesmoke:

Yeah boats are a solid investment! LOL

Have fun out there! I gotta get a boat but I just don't think I have the money to throw in any more pits!
 

JustAnotherFriedDay

Well-Known Member
my dream is actually to own a boat one day (only 19 gotta long way to go). i wanna boat up through BC isles its so amazing up there. go through san juan isles, straight of georgia, jervis inlet and anchor at princess louisa inlet for a few days and smoke in complete serenity :)

visiting scenic locations is great but just boating in general is always a great feeling.

the whole journey up there will be very fun but not as beautiful as the end destination

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOIkC7YgqmM

boated to the san juans before but never up into canada
 

VansStoner1748

Well-Known Member
Thanks alot man. Im going to go by the pick an pull this weekend and get the Blower motor resistor and motor, maybe see if i can get some good window switches. Then mess around with the links.
 

rucca

Active Member
Thanks alot man. Im going to go by the pick an pull this weekend and get the Blower motor resistor and motor, maybe see if i can get some good window switches. Then mess around with the links.
I'd prolly get the resistor and motor new, should be like $15 and $30 respectively. The switches will likely be like 30-80 new, where as at a pick and pull junk yard they fit right in your pocket....or you can probably buy them there for like $2... the motor though is likely filled with debris from sitting in the junk yard and the resistors fail so common you might as well go with a new

Also, getting the switches will probably take you like 10 minutes, where you may spend an hour or 2 trying to get that blower motor out.... the good part though is that you get to fuck up the junkyard car removing to part - then when you get home you know what not to do =)
 

rucca

Active Member
Waiting around for parts - bummmmpp!

Here's a little tip for older vehicles to restore some performance/gas mileage. Clean your top end and throttle body - it is very simple. You will need some very basic tools (most likely screwdriver, pliers, and maybe an 8 or 10mm socket), a clean rag or two, and a can of carb cleaner and a can of "top engine cleaner". I like "Seafoam" for the top end cleaner.

Remove your air intake and hold/prop open your throttle plate (if you have an electronic throttle body you can turn the key on and hold the gas pedal down with a stick or something, don't force an electronic throttle body open, you can mess it up).

For cable actuated throttle - spray it down really well and wipe it clean. Continue until it is perfectly clean in there taking care to wipe down the throttle plate and bore as best you can. "Itls like fingering a large robot vagina" is how it was described to me the first time lol

For electronic throttle body - spray the rag and wipe it out, don't spray the cleaner into the throttle body. (Spraying an electronic throttle body down can destroy it, very rare, but I have seen kids do it at the dealership...)

After it is all clean, put the intake back on and fire your car up (you'll likely have to hold the gas to the floor so the car enters "clear flood mode" since you have essentially flooded the engine with fuel by spraying the carb cleaner into the intake). Allow it to warm up and idle (your idle may be high to begin but your car will adjust itself unless it is from like 1972)

After your engine is warm we can now proceed to clean the top end. This is performed most easily with 2 people though you can do it alone if you know how to/are able to actuate your throttle by hand. Shut the car off and remove a vacuum line (I usually use the brake booster line though a smaller vacuum line will make the engine less likely to stall during this). The trick now is to start the car and keep it running while adding the seafoam slowly into the vacuum line. It takes a combination of blocking vacuum by hand, revving the engine, and careful pouring. As you approach the end of the seafoam bottle, your goal is to add enough seafoam to choke the engine and shut it off (you don't want to really dump a whole shitload in but you do want to stall it or at least have your buddy shut the car off as you add the final portion.)

So now after you have added all your seafoam and stalled your engine/shut it off you are going to let the car sit for a while (30 mins - 2 hours or so). If you have set a check engine light during this, now would be a good time to clear the codes if you have a little code reader or just disconnect the battery for a bit.

After sitting, again fully depress the gas to enter clear flood mode and start it up. It will probably run crappy for a little while it clears out all the leftover seafoam/loose carbon deposits. Also during this time you will create an incredible plume of smoke (all the carbon you cleaned out being burnt off). Don't think it won't smoke a ton unless it is a newer car - you will piss your neighbors off. All done! Should have a smoother idle and maybe a little more pep and slightly improved MPG now!
 

Unnk

Well-Known Member
i got a question for yah mate What the hell is up with my suspension. I had got a new set of breaks and rotors and tires. After they were installed i noticed the front passenger side will go into a crazy bouncing thumping until i quickly whip the wheel to the left or right im thinking that its the suspension possibly the link?
 

rucca

Active Member
i got a question for yah mate What the hell is up with my suspension. I had got a new set of breaks and rotors and tires. After they were installed i noticed the front passenger side will go into a crazy bouncing thumping until i quickly whip the wheel to the left or right im thinking that its the suspension possibly the link?
Well... not quite sure what it is, but I would take it back there immediately (assuming this problem started after they did work on your car) - it sounds like it could be dangerous.

What kind of car is it? May help me a bit - my guess currently is that they left a bolt loose or just completely out on your brake caliper/caliper mounting bracket. A better description of you problem along with the year/make/model of car would help for an accurate diagnosis though.

From what you have said - it seems that when you apply the brakes the entire car shakes? This is a symptom of warped rotors. You say quickly moving the steering wheel left or right takes this symptom away though? That is not characteristic of warped rotors. I'd say possibly a wheel bearing, but they are usually characterized by a loud droning hum, and the sound will dissapate/go away when the weight is removed from the bad wheel bearing. (i.e. front right wheel bearing is bad - hard right hand turn shifts weight to the left of vehicle and sound is gone). Wheel bearings, however, don't usually cause the car to shake (except when they are right about to break and your wheel is about to fall off, but you can't make that go away.)
 

Unnk

Well-Known Member
95 dodge intrepid i am def taking it back but What happens is if i drive 30 or below and im on a bumpy road.. the front right passenger wheel will start to buck up and down or left or right hard to tell sitting behind the week but the whole car it self does not shake just the wheel when i make the quick action to either direction it will stop for a split second but fall back in if the road is bumpy and im driving 30 or below and if its shaking and i accelerate past 30 usually straightens it self out and i never encounter this problem at speeds highher then 40-45 and yes it does sound dangerous thats why ive been using it only in emergencies
 

rucca

Active Member
95 dodge intrepid i am def taking it back but What happens is if i drive 30 or below and im on a bumpy road.. the front right passenger wheel will start to buck up and down or left or right hard to tell sitting behind the week but the whole car it self does not shake just the wheel when i make the quick action to either direction it will stop for a split second but fall back in if the road is bumpy and im driving 30 or below and if its shaking and i accelerate past 30 usually straightens it self out and i never encounter this problem at speeds highher then 40-45 and yes it does sound dangerous thats why ive been using it only in emergencies
Ok that changes my theory a bit. I'm fairly certain you have bad inner tie rod bushings (extremely common for your vehicle). This leads to a lot of side to side play in your front wheels, when driving along fairly straight they can wobble left and right. When you make a sharp turn, you are forcing the wheel to the side, which holds it relatively straight and the shaking stops. The whole job shouldn't be too much... maybe around $150-200 + alignment if you desire. To check for this, just jack the front wheels off the ground and shake the wheel in a side to side left to right motion. You will likely notice it is very loose/has a ton of side to side play.

You could do this job yourself even, though the bolts to the steering rack can be a bit tough to get out.
 

rucca

Active Member
where is the module on a 1991 ford aerostar? why is it not where most modules are?(ignition)
Pretty vague question but assuming you mean the engine control module - it should be next to your brake master cylidner
 

Unnk

Well-Known Member
Ok that changes my theory a bit. I'm fairly certain you have bad inner tie rod bushings (extremely common for your vehicle). This leads to a lot of side to side play in your front wheels, when driving along fairly straight they can wobble left and right. When you make a sharp turn, you are forcing the wheel to the side, which holds it relatively straight and the shaking stops. The whole job shouldn't be too much... maybe around $150-200 + alignment if you desire. To check for this, just jack the front wheels off the ground and shake the wheel in a side to side left to right motion. You will likely notice it is very loose/has a ton of side to side play.

You could do this job yourself even, though the bolts to the steering rack can be a bit tough to get out.

perfect was gonna fix my alignment any way its what killed my front tires and brakes in the first place so probbably that bushing as well
 

Unnk

Well-Known Member
i can totally do the job my self how much would you say it would be for the part probably a lot because its Chrysler right? lol
 
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