if running cfl or led your could get away with a booster but hid lighting will require an inline
Booster fans will not overcome high static if they are the propellor type. If you have a short duct run and just need to add air then it should work. But they will not do much for a long run or filter. Its amazing that 500cfm is needed to keep temps down. Most furnaces are like 800cfm. Whole house ventilators are like 130-150. I use a 180 cfm hepa filter with charcoal canister in it.
Hey guys, was just wondering if I should go with a regular in line fan or just a simple duct booster.. The duct boosters are significantly cheaper all around and seem to put out a decent amount of CFMs for what I'm doing. Anyone else have input?![]()
Hey guys, how long have you had the Stanley blower set up like that. I'm big into DIY. Is there any issues with it over heating in that box. And do I have it correct you are pushing air through the light out the other end and out of the room? You wouldn't utilize a scrubber with this set up bc it's only pushing air through the tube correct? Than you would need another inline to scrub the air?
Sorry to hijack but maybe my question can help the op. I'm trying to cool the temps and filter the air out at the same time, would I just no use a cool tube rather a hood that doesn't have glass. Than instead of blowin air over the bulb suck it out where it first passes through a scrubber than is blown outside. Maybe just have a booster fan rigged to blow fresh air into the hood? Seems like it may not lower the heat coming off the bulb as much but you'll be able to cool and scrub with only one inline or one stanly blower set up
Anyway, we have all been short on bucks or some of us are just cheap bastards but no one should skimp on ventilation, especially when venting a high wattage light. The fire hazard isn't worth being cheap in this area. That is my only point.
So if you wanted to filter the air with a scrubber you would need to hook up a seperate inline or Stanley blower to suck air out of the room