BMO nutes

gjdubbz said:

ohsogreen:
I need you help. i will be growing inside in a homebox xl(47.25x47.25x78.75) under a 600watt hps. i would like to go with the whole BMO line and molasses, and Alaska MOr-Bloom booster the last couple of weeks of flowering. My base soil is going to be 2:1 ration PRO-MIX HP/FFOC, with extra perilite. Now when i look at your chart, when should i start your regiment at? i will sart out in 16 0z cups, and after a couple of weeks move to 3 gallon growbags veg for 2 months. within those two omnths of vegging will my plant out grow the 3 gallon bags and will i need to go to 5 gallon bags before i start flowering?? how should i feed water waterw/spt/molasses weekley or bi-weekly? is htere any way i can follow your chart with succes the way im growing?? your help is much appreciated. im new at this organic thing, i just want to get the best results for my girls.

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GjDubbZ..... Since you are starting in soil with some NPK already in it, just start my chart for the BMO nutes at week three of veg growth. Prior to that, just plain unchlorinated water.
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The bigger the rootball, the bigger the yield and 3 gallons are a nice compromise, considering the size grow box you have to work with. Feed weekly because, heat tends to be more of an issue inside grow cabinets or boxes. This causes plants to transpire more and a low steay feeding will work best for you. Water as needed, but let the soil dry out a little between waterings.
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I'd use the SPT starting at week 4 of veg growth, then each week thereafter at 1/2 mixing strength. Then discountinue the SPT at week 4 of flowering. Since, you will already have a good poplulation of micro-beasties in your soil, no need to waste it.
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As far as unsulphured molasses goes. I add one ounce per gallon of veg nutes (mixed up) and bubble for 24 hours. To prevent overfeeding, only use the molasses every other feeding (since your soil is a nute rich one).
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If you want to go longer on the feeding schedule for veg growth and / or flowering, just repeat week 4 (as many extra weeks as necessary - to cover the time difference) for growth or flowering. Which is necessary for strains like Haze that need 12 to 14 weeks to finish.
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Hope this helps....
Keep it Real...Organic...
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thanks alot ohso, that put me on the right track

just used the full nutes for veg, spt and grow it green straight from bottle and the plants visibly loved it. I am also goin to top dress the ladies with bat guano. These will veg ubtil my lr2 has finished and lr2 has not even shown sex yet. I hope for trees.

I was wondering how productive it would be to make buckets of the stuff and add things like more worm castings, manure, compost, and so on. I was in a bind this time, but maybe, later, I could add these things.

repeat. . . . . . . .duplicate, although what is your guys opinion on liquid karma, cal mag plus?

dirt clean said:

repeat. . . . . . . .duplicate, although what is your guys opinion on liquid karma, cal mag plus?

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I've never used LK, but cal mag I have used with great results. I would recommend just using Liquid Seaweed to get those trace minerals. It's cheaper.

D2G.... They look in need of some nitrogen. Some magnesium would also be advised since you are in the flowering phase. Mix one ounce of your Foliar Harmony (2-4-2) and one teaspoon of epsom salt to one gallon of unchlorinated water (warm). Let it cool to room temp, then give each girl one quart.

ohso,
so I watered my girl the recommendation above.. two days later when my soil kind of dried out I fed her of pint of (one gallon pots and the dose of 1/3 ounce GIG and 2/3 ounce FP in one gallon of unchloriated water) nutes.. seems like my girl is getting worse though.. half of the leaf on post #72 has fallen off and the other older leaves are yellowing up now too.. should I flush? or should I just let her be N deficient? I'm 3 1/2 weeks into flowering now..

D2G

down2grow said:

ohso,
so I watered my girl the recommendation above.. two days later when my soil kind of dried out I fed her of pint of (one gallon pots and the dose of 1/3 ounce GIG and 2/3 ounce FP in one gallon of unchloriated water) nutes.. seems like my girl is getting worse though.. half of the leaf on post #72 has fallen off and the other older leaves are yellowing up now too.. should I flush? or should I just let her be N deficient? I'm 3 1/2 weeks into flowering now..

D2G

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D2G..... Do a good flush, let the soil semi-dry out, mix 1/2 ounce of GIG, & 1/2 ounce of FP to one gallon of water. Give your plant one quart of this mixed up fert solution. It should regreen within 24 hours.
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If it does not - it's most likely your soil pH is off, the flush should help correct this - provided the water you are using is not contributing to the problem.
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Do you know the pH of the water you are mixing/using. If it has a high pH 7 or greater it may be the source of your grief. When the soil pH gets above 7 more & more nutes get locked out. Mary will starve, even if the soil is full of nutes.
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Do you have a soil pH tester ? They are cheap and a good tool to have.
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Do you have a water pH tester or test kit (a cheap aquarium pH test kit works fine or a swimming pool test kit).
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Soil needs to be 6 to 6.8 &
Your water needs to be 5.8 to 6.5 for best results......
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Yellowing leaves are not the end of the world, but you should not see them until week 5 or after, as a rule. If you feed some N through the first half of flowering, like at a 3 level, you should not see them until week 6 or shortly thereafter.
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Hope this helps......
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Ohsogreen said:

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D2G..... Do a good flush, let the soil semi-dry out, mix 1/2 ounce of GIG, & 1/2 ounce of FP to one gallon of water. Give your plant one quart of this mixed up fert solution. It should regreen within 24 hours.
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If it does not - it's most likely your soil pH is off, the flush should help correct this - provided the water you are using is not contributing to the problem.
.
Do you know the pH of the water you are mixing/using. If it has a high pH 7 or greater it may be the source of your grief. When the soil pH gets above 7 more & more nutes get locked out. Mary will starve, even if the soil is full of nutes.
.
Do you have a soil pH tester ? They are cheap and a good tool to have.
.
Do you have a water pH tester or test kit (a cheap aquarium pH test kit works fine or a swimming pool test kit).
.
Soil needs to be 6 to 6.8 &
Your water needs to be 5.8 to 6.5 for best results......
.
Yellowing leaves are not the end of the world, but you should not see them until week 5 or after, as a rule. If you feed some N through the first half of flowering, like at a 3 level, you should not see them until week 6 or shortly thereafter.
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Hope this helps......
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Ohso,

Thanks again for the help.. Ill flush later today when my lights come on..

Yes I do have a soil PH reader, but it's one of those cheapos (not digital) I got off ebay way before I found out about Hanna's.. I dont think it's accurate, but the PH of the soil reads between 6.5 and 7.0.. As far as a water PH tester I have the liquid kind with the color chart and have been watering between 6.5 and 7.0 (too high?).. I'm going to get a digital for the next grow for sure!!!

D2G

Oh So, you seem to know alot about BMO, and i just order all of my organics, and lights, waiting on my seeds to get here, and then will be starting my first grow with the BMO. Will be starting a new thread to go along with this grow, hope you can stop in and be of some help.

Hey OhSo,
What do you think would happen if you added Big Bud to the otherwise organic grow? Would Big Bud kill the micro-beasties?

Droski7 said:

Will be starting a new thread to go along with this grow, hope you can stop in and be of some help.

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Droski7.... I'd be glad too.......
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billdo said:

Hey OhSo,
What do you think would happen if you added Big Bud to the otherwise organic grow? Would Big Bud kill the micro-beasties?

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Billdo...... The Big Bud would kill allot of your micro-beasties, but not all. Basically you can apply some SPT a day later (one oz to one gallon of water) & revive the tribe to respectable levels within 48 hours.......
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First got into BMO back in 7/08 but only the SPT. Just ordered their full line and cannot wait to see the results after using the amazing SPT. Question though, on the SPT I used to leave it but recently I started cleaning my overflow trays as they become a near solid brown cake of ingrediants from the SPT and I don't want it to all dissolve when I water the next time and shock the plants. (I know its not a fertalizer, just been more cautious latly.) So question is, should I keep doing this, and if so is it also required for the fertalizer line of BMO.

Damnit.. I have Advanced Nutrient's Connoisseur.... If Bid Bud kills all the organisms due to chemicals and such, I would have to assume my connoisseur does the same :/

kirby said:

Damnit.. I have Advanced Nutrient's Connoisseur.... If Bid Bud kills all the organisms due to chemicals and such, I would have to assume my connoisseur does the same :/

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Oh my, yeah. I would think so, as well.

Do you use Connoisseur as your main bloom fert or as a supplement?
Are you in soil or hydro?

During flowering I'll use Age Old Bloom + Fish Emulsion + Connoisseur, and maybe some other ones. In this case, I'm wondering if it's best just to throw in full strength SPT on watering days

kirby said:

During flowering I'll use Age Old Bloom + Fish Emulsion + Connoisseur, and maybe some other ones. In this case, I'm wondering if it's best just to throw in full strength SPT on watering days

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That is what I am trying at the moment, as well.

I am really thinking about doing a head-to-head grow of the BMO line vs. AN Sensi 2-part + Big Bud. I know the yield will be in the AN corner, for sure. I am just wanting a better understanding what I am giving up in yield/taste from one to the other.

Think anybody would care to watch that grow journal?

I would watch that grow journal. I'm curious to see the results. I just used the full BMO line for my last crop, with amazing results.

well... i will try to do a test.

I have 3 Purple Wreck and 3 Blueberry seedlings that will be put into flower in about 2 weeks. I might do the sensi and big bud on one of each strain... hoping that at least one ends up female.

I am going to clone every seedling before it goes into flower so that I can keep any bad-ass genetics alive. If I get something worth keeping, then maybe I can do another run at it with clones to get more conclusive results.

Heres a pic of one of my Arjan's Haze that I harvested recently. The pic is from the night before harvest. Indoors 400W HPS. Nothing but BMO Grow it Green, Flower Power, SPT, Alaska MorBloom 0-10-10, & Blackstrap molasses. Stinky & sticky as fuck!

Gonna finish the bottles of BMO on my next grow in a couple weeks, then I'll probably switch back to making teas. But I'll def keep the SPT in stock!