Blue Mystic Auto's (help!!)

@alonefarmer420---I got them off of ebay, there's a seller who buys the big jugs of the nutes, and sell's them in smaller 8oz contaiiners so they can be sold cheaper. I know the colors and the smells, it's definitely fox farm trio nutes. And it isn't even set up yet, haha! I'm going to be putting a grow cab in my closet(as soon as it gets here).

Hey - I also saw some other questions/concerns you posted and figured I'd take a second to share my two cents. MycoMadness & White Widow are beneficial bacteria. There are lots of other brands too. Beneficial Bacteria are "beneficial" in that they promote root & soil health. They help process nutrients/fertilizer and make it easier for the plant's roots to absorb. They also eat (?) dead roots that are decomposing. I don't have a real solid understanding exactly how they help, but that's the basic idea I got while talking to the guy at my local hydro shop. Some research on the topic may not be a bad idea. Even if you don't know what they do, you should give them a shot on at least one of your plants so you can see the difference it makes.
You also asked about Humboldt Roots - this stuff is a "root innoculant." Again, I'm no horticulturist, but my understanding of this stuff is that it's basically a fertilizer for your roots. It will promote & stimulate growth of your roots. Your roots are where all the magic comes from. Problems above the soil are often a direct representation of how healthy your roots are. If your plant has slowed/stopped growing your roots/soil might be too saturated with water and, therefore; starving for oxygen. They may have run out of room in the pot. They may be unable to process nutrients due to an imbalance in PH or salinity (lockout/defficiency). They could need water. Plants with the same genetics will grow larger in a 5gal pot than they would in a 2.5gal pot. That's because MORE ROOT = MORE FRUIT. Also if the container isn't deep, but is very wide, your plant will likely end up short and bushy.... if your pot is narrow and much deeper the plant will probably be taller & narrower. The idea here, is that in order to take care of your plant - you have to first start by addressing your root & soil health. I mixed the Humboldt Roots & MycoMadness into gallon jugs of Ph balanced water and wetted the soil with it as I was mixing in my pearlite. It is definitely some fertile stuff!
You also talked about your light schedule & intensity. I would start your seedlings off at 150 watts if that's the lowest your light goes. You would want to use a MH bulb during this stage. If you want to save on electricity you can even use a Flourescent or CFL during these first few days since they really don't require super intense lighting. You could probably switch to 400 watts after a 5-8 days, depending on how healthy it looks. Definitely after you have a couple sets of true leaves (the tear-drop shaped ones that come out 1st don't count). How close you are able to keep the light to the top of your plants is going to be dependent on your setup. Hang a thermometer/hygrometer a few inches under the light & see what the temperature is... keep moving it towards/away from the light until you find where the temperature is no warmer than 80 degrees. This is how close you want it to the top of your plant. For some reference, my air-cooled hood is about 1.25 inches from the tip of my main cola, but my buddy who doesn't air cool his bulb has to stay about 18-22" above his plants. You'll also want to tackle air ventilation and circulation with some fans - if not, the heat will become arch-enemy numero uno muy rapido! I would keep the lights on an 18/6 schedule from the beginning to the end. That is the advice I've read in many, many places. I ran into a problem where my plants were getting taller than I wanted or expected them to, so I reduced the nitrogen and hours of light to try and curb the stretching - It seemed to work well, but could have just been coincidence; who knows? So she started on 18/6 for 45 days, then 14/10 for 16 days, and is now on 12/12 until harvest. I know I could have given it 18 hrs light all the way to the end, but since I'm not in a hurry, I wanted to go with 12/12 and see if it would make the plant hold out longer (and maybe produce more) before coming to her peak ripeness and getting harvested.

I hope you can make sense of my long-winded ramblings. I do want to reiterate the fact that: I am in no way, even remotely close, to an expert gardener. I hesitate to even give advice for the fear that I will mis-guide someone. There are many top-notch farmers on this site, and I would certainly hope they'd chime in & call BullShit on me if I've told you something incorrect though. I wish you the best of luck & can't wait to see your setup & 1st harvest. Peace

I would store those fertilizers in a cool DARK place. I've never seen a clear container for fertilizer, and I'm pretty sure that's because it's not a good idea to leave fertilizer exposed to light.

Damn MDEVA, you answered like 30 freakin questions! Wow, i've read what you've said like 4 times(i immediately put my nutes in sealed box after i finished it the first time around). I'm still trying to process everything and write down notes on how i plan to do all this. While you're in the mood to answer questions, how do you measure in parts per million? The feeding is the part I know the least about. Also, do you recommend i use fox farm happy frog in a 3 gallon bucket from start to finish on a 18/6 light cycle? (no transplanting, will use your advice on increasing watts when the girls are ready). i figure a foot per gallon, and i have a 5 foot cab, need room to hang my HPS!

Thanks. Yes, I would definitely recommend Happy Frog Soil 3gal pot 18/6 from start to finish. I think you will be suprised at the results so long as you cover the basics. I have that exact same F.F. feeding schedule, but I didn't follow it religiously. After the first set of real leaves, I gave mine 2 tsp of the big bloom (per gallon of Ph Balanced water). Next time watered with plain water. Then 3.5 tsp Big Bloom. Then 3.5tsp Big Bloom & 1tsp Grow Big. Keep gradually stepping up your fertilizer until you reach what looks like your plants maximum (I wouldn't go above what F.F. recommends though). Many people recommend alternating between plain water and then nutrients&water. I figured autoflowers have a shorter life span so I was going to have to really pump her with nutrients (without burning) & I sometimes feed 3 or even 4 times in a row before switching back to a plain water. When I changed or added another one of the fertilizers, I would introduce it in small doses (1/4 or 1/3 strenth) and work my way up. This plant was easy to read - if I went just a little too hot on the fertilizer, just the very tips of the leaves would yellow a little. If I saw that I would give plain water and back off that ingredient a little next time. Here is another tip about watering & feeding. "Rough up" the surface of your soil a little bit up to about 1/4" deep all over the top. Pour your water/nutrient solution in slowly, giving soil time to absorb what you've poured before adding more. Keep doing this until you see run-off water in your saucer under the container. Let the saucer fill up a little. This accomplishes 2 things; 1: It makes sure that your soil is thouroughly moistened without having wet pockets, & 2: It is almost like a mini "flush" every time you feed or water. A flush is basically just water evacuating your container and carrying with it excess nutrients, salts, and decomp matter. I would not worry about PPM (parts per million). It's also referred to as TDS/ EC or Electric Conductivity. For one, soil is a natural "buffer." It will protect your plant and her roots, and give you time to correct mistakes that you make (feeding too heavy, water too little, ph too high/low etc). In hydroponics, where everything you give the plant is absorbed immediately and rapidly, by the time you see a problem it is very close to Too Late. That would warrant testing the PPM of your nutrient solution in my opinion. Just read your plants in soil - they'll tell you the same thing. Hopefully you never have to do this- but if you over feed by quite a bit, or start seeing yellowing that you can't figure out, do a complete flush. Use at least 3gal of Ph Balanced water per 1gal of container size. For your 3gal pots you would water with 9gal of water EACH. Do this in the bathtub or sink or outside, because it's going to make one HELL of a mess. Once she dries out and wants food/water again, make sure to add a couple of Ml Cal/Mag to replenish the soil.


Gotta go to bed buddy, have to be at work at 3am. I am happy to answer your questions though, so ask away. I'll do what I can as I have the time. You're going to have one bad-ass little garden pretty soon.

i plan on buying my soil and pots to put in my brand new cab this friday and saturday, germing them on friday! gosh this is so damn exciting!!! here's my setup. the carbon filter "odor scrubber" takes up so much room on the floor of the cab. i need to find a way for it to effectively do its job without taking up all the space. any suggestions i'd LOVE. going to be getting some inline and exhaust fans as well, and a fan for my light(planning on blowing air through the cool tube). uhmmmm, MDEVA you pretty much answered my soil/watering/feeding questions, so yeah take a look at these pics and give some feedback!

looking good. negative air pressure is what you want in your tent, also you can move your scrubber outside your tent, and hook it up to your exhaust fan forcing the air from the box to move through the scubber this works best to keep the smell down.

I really want out of my closet & into a tent or something similar, so I'm actually jealous of that setup! You're going to rock that thing out!!!! You will likely have to set everything up, plug it in, and let it run without plants while you teak it & make adjustments to get your heat, light, circulation, and humidity where you want them. Grow room design is not my cup of tea, but I'll take a stab here (hopefully someone else chimes in too)....

Don't laugh, I did my best...
that flap on the back wall is almost against the wall, which is good, because it's going STAY open and will be where fresh cool air comes into the tent. Then air will flow up and thru the left side of the hood, across the bulb, into the ducting, thru the carbon scrubber, and out the exhaust hole in the top left-side corner. You would need 2 good inline fans / duct boosters to set it up this way. The weaker of the 2 would attach to the light hood. The stronger fan would want to be as close to the scrubber & exhaust hole as possible. This way you exhaust your hot air up high, and by doing so (negative pressure) you will naturally pull air in thru the open flap near the bottom, which should be a/c to same temp as your house. This is just my suggestion, again I'm not the best person to ask....

Nice job I just ordered some Nirvana blue mystic myself after successfully finishing 1 and almost done with another of the NL from Nirvana. I did all mine on 6 26w CFL's. Then put it in the Sun for it's final 3 weeks. Turned out great, I will keep my eye on this since we are both doing the same strain.

I wont quote here.. But 100 actual watts minimum of cfl's X3 is to much. To much heat to say the least. One single 200 watt is huge.. I mean big! Can easily cover 3 auto flowers. The pictures on this site does not do the size justice. I have had great luck with these. Big ol nasty buds as hard as rocks. 17,600 lumens does compete with hid. Maybe not gram for gram but friggen close with less power.. A lot less power. Of course look for the 2700K for auto flower.. Small 6500k works for vedge.
http://www.agriculturesolutions.com/Grow-Bulbs/MaxLume-Compact-Fluorescent-Bulb-200w-Cool-Grow.html?gclid=CNWoyrby0LECFWQBQAodeksAoQ