Blue Mountian Organics

Question for OHSOGREEN (or anyone willing to share their secrets about organic growing)

First of all, I am using FF and Im everything but satisfied with my results. I am considering going full organic and BMO seems to be a good choice. I have a couple questions though.

What is the soil mixture you use in conjunction with BMO? I currently use FF ocean forest and perlite mixed in equal parts. Im thinking of adding some pete moss and guano. What are your recommendations?

Do you have to add any salts during your grow? Magical for example? Or do you stick to BMO stuff only?

Thanks in advance

i think just using the FF Ocean soil and perlite along with the BMO and some guano a little blood meal and you should be good to go...

Mburton15 said:

Question for OHSOGREEN (or anyone willing to share their secrets about organic growing)

First of all, I am using FF and Im everything but satisfied with my results. I am considering going full organic and BMO seems to be a good choice. I have a couple questions though.

What is the soil mixture you use in conjunction with BMO? I currently use FF ocean forest and perlite mixed in equal parts. Im thinking of adding some pete moss and guano. What are your recommendations?

Do you have to add any salts during your grow? Magical for example? Or do you stick to BMO stuff only?

Thanks in advance

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I'm using BioBizz Light Mix right now mixed with FF Light Warrior at a 2:1(ish) ratio. It has worked great with the BMO so far. In my most recent mix I've added some BMO castings and a little high N guano, but it's too early to comment on the success of that.

In the past I have used Ocean Forest and BMO with success, but you have to be careful when transplanting because there are nutrients already in the soil. Basically it's pretty easy to burn a plant using Ocean Forest.

I will say that BMO tends to run light on Calcium and Magnesium, so I supplement with Cal-Mag+. I also will add FF Big Bloom (I love that stuff...I already use Guano and Castings but I really like the Big Bloom so I use it throughout the growing cycle).

I also don't think you need to mix equal parts perlite to ocean forest. The Ocean Forest already has tons of perlite in it, and cutting with more only reduces the amount of soil available to hold nutrients and water for the roots.

Wetdog said:

Yeah, what I meant was that the Peters (Jack's), had enough of the micros along with the N-P-K to overcome the ... 'challenges'?? of a peat based mix.

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yes it does. the "blue water" usually does have all the micros macro's and npk and its in a form readily available to a plant, so it does not need "microbes" to break down the food for us.

Wetdog said:

Sometimes, I do miss the ease of that 'blue water'.

Wet

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"Blue water" does make it nice and easy, but if we wanted things "easy" we would jump on the wagon with the "water guys"


wb

Jerry Garcia said:

I'm using BioBizz Light Mix right now mixed with FF Light Warrior at a 2:1(ish) ratio. It has worked great with the BMO so far. In my most recent mix I've added some BMO castings and a little high N guano, but it's too early to comment on the success of that.

In the past I have used Ocean Forest and BMO with success, but you have to be careful when transplanting because there are nutrients already in the soil. Basically it's pretty easy to burn a plant using Ocean Forest.

I will say that BMO tends to run light on Calcium and Magnesium, so I supplement with Cal-Mag+. I also will add FF Big Bloom (I love that stuff...I already use Guano and Castings but I really like the Big Bloom so I use it throughout the growing cycle).

I also don't think you need to mix equal parts perlite to ocean forest. The Ocean Forest already has tons of perlite in it, and cutting with more only reduces the amount of soil available to hold nutrients and water for the roots.

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How much calmag do you use? Do you always use it? Right now, I am using MagICal and bringing up my RO water to about 125ppm before adding any nutes. Also, how much Big Bloom do you use? I have the full FF lineup and thats the only nute i like (hence why I bought BMO and a few other goodies). What is happy frog all about? thanks

Mburton15 said:

How much calmag do you use? Do you always use it? Right now, I am using MagICal and bringing up my RO water to about 125ppm before adding any nutes. Also, how much Big Bloom do you use? I have the full FF lineup and thats the only nute i like (hence why I bought BMO and a few other goodies). What is happy frog all about? thanks

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When I was using RO water myself, I always added Cal/Mag to my water/feed.

I also use BB, and use it at full strength. You dont need to worry about it burning your plants.

Happy Frog I would best describe as FFOF + Light Warrior. It should be cool enough to start seedlings in it without any possibility of burning them, and still feed them for 2-3 weeks.

Thanks to OSHO for all the info! I love the idea of being in control of the ferts being added at each stage and the organic liquid ferts are so friendy for apartment micro grows.

That's a good question about Pro-Mix + organic ferts. Pro Mix BX has been advertising that is has beneficial organisms and also bio fungicide. I have no idea if that would play nice with SPT. Other than that the only part of Pro-Mix that might raise some concern with organic purists is the wetting agent which is non organic. Pro-Mix is about $5 per cubic foot ($35 for 3.8/7 cu ft bale) It is great for rooting cuttings though.

Fox Farm Ocean Forest sells for about $16 per cu ft! ($25 for a 1.5 cu ft bag) In my experience it can be too hot for seedlings and I am not fond of the ferts being mixed in already. Other than that, yeah it does work very well.

You can mix up your own version of Pro-Mix for about $2-$3 per cubic foot. Very simple ingredients list: Plain peat, perlite or diatomaceous earth (DE), dolomite lime, wetting agent (organic is available). The more perlite/DE you add, the faster the mix will drain and dry out and the more the plants love it. However don't overdo the perlite/DE unless you know you can keep up with the watering! The mix can be reused by adding a bit of peat and a bit of lime if necessary.

Water is a problem too. I have no clue whether my tap water uses chlorine or chloramine. Carbon filters like Brita can filter out chlorine if you keep up on filter changes (which can be evaporated out anyway). Unfortunately chloramines are not as cooperative. When you run them through carbon filters chlorine is stripped off and ammonia is left behind (sorry for no references).

Tap water can also contain heavy metals and trace amounts of hundreds of pharmaceuticals, which ecology calls emerging contaminants. We are just starting to realize the potential effects due to synergy between small amounts of these compounds. To be honest I won't even give it to my pets.

You can get R/O water from Walmart from the Culligan machine for 37 cents/gal if you refill your own jugs (does include UV-C filter). Or you can get an undersink R/O system for ~$140. If you plan on drinking it or brewing with it you can add a $65 UV-C filter that will deactivate viruses such as norovirus that can get through R/O membranes occasionally and does survive typical municipal chlorination levels.

R/O ph is easy to work with and you can remineralize with calmag or dolomite lime if necessary as an ealier poster mentioned.

you can also just fill your jugs/buckets with tap water and let it sit out for 24-36 hours and all the chlorine with evaporate and that water works great with BMO. no problems using super thrive especially.

sooo I read the first few pages then noticed that ohsogrren hasn't been on in like 8 months so im gunna ask. DO I need to brew this stuff, or can i directly water it?

can you use well water?

use water without chlorine or water that has been treated via a water softener. spring, distilled or water from the tap w/out chlorine or softener treatment

I dont believe you should use water that's been soft-water treated.

sorry, that's what i meant...don't use water that has been softened.