I'm not quite sure why you guys have the belief that fans work better sucking than blowing. All pressures being equal, the flow rates for intake bad exhaust are the same by definition. What I mean is, put the fan on the table and plug it in, the amount coming into the fan is exactly the same coming out. Any resistance to flow will effect intake and exhaust the same.
I didn't tell anyone to blow air in up top as that doesn't make any sense at all. You want to work with convection flows not against them. The advantage if the set up I described is greater climate control AND smell control. If your scrubber and ventilation are separated, you can put your exhaust fans on a thermostat and they will turn on and off as needed to maintain the desired temps. At night, when you want to keep it warm and not exhaust you can turn off the vents and run a small heater.
If you have your filter attached to your ventilation that means you have to run the filter 24/7 thus always blowing cold air in the tent. Lastly, a filter set up as a scrubber is more effective at eliminating odors than an exhaust. As canaboids are volitile organic carbons, they will easily pass though the walls of your tent, especially in the areas that have somewhat stagnant air flow if your just exhausting. Lastly, a scrubber exhaust can be directed at the plants to increase airflow, increase gas exchange, and combat bud rot; your essentially using it in place of an oscillating fan. The hydrofarm online booster fans work great for ventilation and climate control and are only $50.
If your going to have a passive inlet or outlet, you want it to be 3x the size of the powered inlet/outlet to ensure even exchange rates.
Just wanted to clarify the advantages, obviously many ways to skin a cat. I'm a big fan of sealed hoods that exhaust outdoors, especially given some thing I read recently about digital ballasts causing MH bulbs to offgas toxic metals.