Best way to germinate **feminized ordered seeds**????

shotnva777

Well-Known Member
YSo I'm waitin 4 my seeds to show up in the mail any day now....

What would be the best way to germinate them for a later outdoor grow? I plan to start them n side so that they will be healthy, vegging plants by the time it's time to put them in the ground outside... but that is a whole nother subject in its own.....

Question is. Best way to germinate a good seed? I've heard so many different methods.

1. The old damp paper towel n a warm DARK area...
2. Peat moss peletts and seeding medium, in a cup, under a humidity dome... WITH LIGHT!
3. Rockwool cubes with water and light....

Right now I'm just experimenting with several different options, using the best bag seeds I can find in the mids.... I got the seeds in peat pellets swollen up, inside a small shot glass dixie cup ( with the bottoms cut out) then I filled it in with a seed starting medium to cover the seed. I then put all 3 cups with the separate 3 seeds on top of a bed of perlite. ( Kind of a buried deep up around the the bottom of the cut out cup and sides) ....

I pretty much followed these directions... http://www.dampkring.nl/?bwr_id=7730&7730_sub_id=7745

There is steps/pages (1-9) to click on.... please let me know what you guys do in order to get a 100 percent ( or close to it) germination rate!!!
 

shufflebotlmfao

New Member
use shot glass method

Marijuana Growing Tips
A Marijuana Seeds Resource
Buying Marijuana Seeds Safely
How To Germinate Marijuana Weed Seeds
Germinating Cannabis Sativa Seeds
A Step-by-Step Pot Seed Germination Process







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The Germination
Process


The germination of your marijuana seeds usually starts with curiosity, then quickly turns into a serious hobby (garden).
The following is a successful step-by-step process for marijuana seed germination on any budget. It generally works very well.
How to germinate marijuana seeds, cannabis sativa, and pot seeds.
Class is in session, light up and pay attention!
Always be sure that your work area is clean. This includes YOU. Wash your hands every time before working with seeds - it will increase your success.

Nicotine is like poison to cannabis - to both the seeds and the plants. If you smoke cigarettes, it's all over your fingers.

Preparation & Supplies
In preparing to germinate your seeds whether one or a dozen, make sure you have everything you need and that it is also clean. I use so much anti-bacterial soap in my garden that I do recommend it. (hands, buckets, tweezers, shot glasses, etc.)

Pre-soaking Method
For our tutorial, we are using a shot glass, mineral water at room temperature, and our chosen seed(s). We use masking tape and a marker to identify our seeds when germinating multiple cannabis strains.


You can probably use your local water with one caution... Fill a pitcher or a jug with the water one whole day before you will be using it and leave it open. This allows chlorine and other potentially harmful chemicals to escape into the open air before use.

Day One
Half fill your glass with mineral water. We have taken a single seed (female), and placed it in the water (shot glass). Notice that the seed is initially floating.
We have identified this seed and now we need to put it away in a warm and dark place for 24-30 hours. This allows the seed to absorb water. The seed does not need or like any light yet, but likes everything warm.
The cannabis seed simply needs warm air, moisture and darkness to begin it's life.


Select a warm spot that stays consistent in the temperature it offers (like on your water heater). We cover our glass with a dark cup to keep out all of the surrounding light.
Keeping a temperature of between 75° to 85° Fahrenheit is excellent for starting seeds.
Again, leave this covered and warm for at least 24 hours. This will allow the seed to absorb water, and is an excellent indication that the seed can grow.

Day Two
When you return the next day and uncover your glass, you may notice that the seed sank to the bottom (as illustrated). If it did not, have no fear. Try stirring the water with your clean finger. The seed may have absorbed water and still be afloat by a bubble or dry spot (happens all the time).
If the seed still floats, you can add some fresh water* and check back again in 8-12 hours. After that, you can still plant the seed, but chances are slim that it will take hold.


I then take a cup of my personal grow mix (soil) that is the same mix I use in my plants through-out their maturity. This means (to me) that I only transplant once, and it's moved into the same exact grow medium. This prevents additional shock or stress when moved to their final container.

I use a solo cup and slice four slits in the bottom for good water drainage and added aeration. It also makes the transplant very easy. Allow soil to dry, cut slits down the cup sides and gingerly remove plant. Be easy on all the tender roots.

I carefully place the seed into the soil with the knot side up. I only place it about 3/16" under the soil surface and water thoroughly. I am still only using water* at this point.
When I water* the soil, it tends to move some soil over the seed. I label my cup and place it in a dome for high humidity and added warmth (shown next to a clone). Position a small grow light above the dome and have the timer the same as your 18 hour garden clock. We want some air, moisture, warmth and light right now.
Lights should remain ON for 16 - 20 hours and OFF for 4 - 8 hours. You are deciding this right now, because changing this light cycle in mid-growth IS stress for the plant - we will control the lights completely. This is the 'trigger' for future growth stages. I recommend 18 hours ON, 6 hours OFF.


Day Three
Keep the soil moist, but not wet... there is a difference. After my initial watering, I do not water* it again for 2-3 days, and then I am spraying water* over my cup of soil.
Usually, in about 2-5 days you will see the seedling begin to pop out of the soil. I have seen seeds take 11 days, but usually less.
Sometimes, as in this example, the seed shell stays attached while the seedling works it's way upward and fights to exist.


Once the seedling has broken ground and I can see green leaves, I remove the cup from the humidity dome. Move your new baby to the nursery side of your garden with the 16-18 hour grow light cycle and circulating air.
Spray the leaves with water* for two days to help transition from the high humidity dome.
As the seed uncurls and begins it's beautiful life, it will lose the seed case and begin to sprout it's first leaves.
Congratulations! We have now moved from the germination stage to the seedling stage. Patience, cleanliness and good soil products can help insure a high percentage of germination success with your seeds.
Day Four
As you can see, the sprout stretches upward while wrestling with the seed casing to be released (all this work for our smoking pleasure).
As it spends more time under the light, the sprout should be able to shake the seed and begin to form it's first 2 leaves (cotyledon).
You will find that once you have a regiment down that works, it's fairly easy to germinate your cannabis seeds indoors at any time of the year.
First Week
Your new seedling is alive and prospering. In our example, you can leave it in the cup for a couple of weeks while it gains strength.
It has everything it needs to begin a stress free life. From here we move into the caring and growing of your marijuana.


At times, I plant more than one seed to a cup. Sometimes I leave them both in the cup, and sometimes I separate them immediately after they break ground.

You should now be on your way to some wonderful romance with your plants. Do not be afraid to talk and raise your youngsters to be strong and vigorous and 'stinky' young ladies. It's what I call "marijuana karma" because it all comes back to you in the end.
Be careful not to over water* your seedlings. Wait for the top of the soil to get dry and crusty before watering again.

Water* - In this Chapter, the term water relates to mineral water, distilled or bottled water, or water that has sat in open air for 20-30 hours.
Giving the seedlings a mild nitrogen mixture (like Nutri-grow™) in your water* will help vigorous, healthy growth at this stage if your soil does not compensate in this important area. Be careful! They are still young and very impressionable.
Once your seedling has 5-7 growing days in the cup, you can transplant it anytime to it's larger container. Make this large enough for the life of the plant (I use 3-5 gallon containers) I never want to run out of room (soil) at the point of flowering. If you are pruning, you can get away with smaller containers.


I recommend water* throughout this process because my soil mixture contains initial nutrients like nitrogen, phosphates, guano, seafood, and more. At some point, you'll probably develop your own soil too. Good Luck.

The Vegetative Stage is NEXT.
Looking for some
genuine chronic?

Real Weed

This website is best viewed under the influence of cannabis
(you remember nothing)



* Germination * Cloning * Seeds * How HIGH Test * Buyer Tips * Making Money Online * Humor *

Created by Woodstuck © Copyright 2000-2100

Weeds That Please | Disclaimer
 

shufflebotlmfao

New Member
use shot glass method



The Germination
Process


The germination of your marijuana seeds usually starts with curiosity, then quickly turns into a serious hobby (garden).
The following is a successful step-by-step process for marijuana seed germination on any budget. It generally works very well.
How to germinate marijuana seeds, cannabis sativa, and pot seeds.
Class is in session, light up and pay attention!
Always be sure that your work area is clean. This includes YOU. Wash your hands every time before working with seeds - it will increase your success.

Nicotine is like poison to cannabis - to both the seeds and the plants. If you smoke cigarettes, it's all over your fingers.

Preparation & Supplies
In preparing to germinate your seeds whether one or a dozen, make sure you have everything you need and that it is also clean. I use so much anti-bacterial soap in my garden that I do recommend it. (hands, buckets, tweezers, shot glasses, etc.)

Pre-soaking Method
For our tutorial, we are using a shot glass, mineral water at room temperature, and our chosen seed(s). We use masking tape and a marker to identify our seeds when germinating multiple cannabis strains.


You can probably use your local water with one caution... Fill a pitcher or a jug with the water one whole day before you will be using it and leave it open. This allows chlorine and other potentially harmful chemicals to escape into the open air before use.

Day One
Half fill your glass with mineral water. We have taken a single seed (female), and placed it in the water (shot glass). Notice that the seed is initially floating.
We have identified this seed and now we need to put it away in a warm and dark place for 24-30 hours. This allows the seed to absorb water. The seed does not need or like any light yet, but likes everything warm.
The cannabis seed simply needs warm air, moisture and darkness to begin it's life.


Select a warm spot that stays consistent in the temperature it offers (like on your water heater). We cover our glass with a dark cup to keep out all of the surrounding light.
Keeping a temperature of between 75° to 85° Fahrenheit is excellent for starting seeds.
Again, leave this covered and warm for at least 24 hours. This will allow the seed to absorb water, and is an excellent indication that the seed can grow.

Day Two
When you return the next day and uncover your glass, you may notice that the seed sank to the bottom (as illustrated). If it did not, have no fear. Try stirring the water with your clean finger. The seed may have absorbed water and still be afloat by a bubble or dry spot (happens all the time).
If the seed still floats, you can add some fresh water* and check back again in 8-12 hours. After that, you can still plant the seed, but chances are slim that it will take hold.


I then take a cup of my personal grow mix (soil) that is the same mix I use in my plants through-out their maturity. This means (to me) that I only transplant once, and it's moved into the same exact grow medium. This prevents additional shock or stress when moved to their final container.

I use a solo cup and slice four slits in the bottom for good water drainage and added aeration. It also makes the transplant very easy. Allow soil to dry, cut slits down the cup sides and gingerly remove plant. Be easy on all the tender roots.

I carefully place the seed into the soil with the knot side up. I only place it about 3/16" under the soil surface and water thoroughly. I am still only using water* at this point.
When I water* the soil, it tends to move some soil over the seed. I label my cup and place it in a dome for high humidity and added warmth (shown next to a clone). Position a small grow light above the dome and have the timer the same as your 18 hour garden clock. We want some air, moisture, warmth and light right now.
Lights should remain ON for 16 - 20 hours and OFF for 4 - 8 hours. You are deciding this right now, because changing this light cycle in mid-growth IS stress for the plant - we will control the lights completely. This is the 'trigger' for future growth stages. I recommend 18 hours ON, 6 hours OFF.


Day Three
Keep the soil moist, but not wet... there is a difference. After my initial watering, I do not water* it again for 2-3 days, and then I am spraying water* over my cup of soil.
Usually, in about 2-5 days you will see the seedling begin to pop out of the soil. I have seen seeds take 11 days, but usually less.
Sometimes, as in this example, the seed shell stays attached while the seedling works it's way upward and fights to exist.


Once the seedling has broken ground and I can see green leaves, I remove the cup from the humidity dome. Move your new baby to the nursery side of your garden with the 16-18 hour grow light cycle and circulating air.
Spray the leaves with water* for two days to help transition from the high humidity dome.
As the seed uncurls and begins it's beautiful life, it will lose the seed case and begin to sprout it's first leaves.
Congratulations! We have now moved from the germination stage to the seedling stage. Patience, cleanliness and good soil products can help insure a high percentage of germination success with your seeds.
Day Four
As you can see, the sprout stretches upward while wrestling with the seed casing to be released (all this work for our smoking pleasure).
As it spends more time under the light, the sprout should be able to shake the seed and begin to form it's first 2 leaves (cotyledon).
You will find that once you have a regiment down that works, it's fairly easy to germinate your cannabis seeds indoors at any time of the year.
First Week
Your new seedling is alive and prospering. In our example, you can leave it in the cup for a couple of weeks while it gains strength.
It has everything it needs to begin a stress free life. From here we move into the caring and growing of your marijuana.


At times, I plant more than one seed to a cup. Sometimes I leave them both in the cup, and sometimes I separate them immediately after they break ground.

You should now be on your way to some wonderful romance with your plants. Do not be afraid to talk and raise your youngsters to be strong and vigorous and 'stinky' young ladies. It's what I call "marijuana karma" because it all comes back to you in the end.
Be careful not to over water* your seedlings. Wait for the top of the soil to get dry and crusty before watering again.

Water* - In this Chapter, the term water relates to mineral water, distilled or bottled water, or water that has sat in open air for 20-30 hours.
Giving the seedlings a mild nitrogen mixture (like Nutri-grow™) in your water* will help vigorous, healthy growth at this stage if your soil does not compensate in this important area. Be careful! They are still young and very impressionable.
Once your seedling has 5-7 growing days in the cup, you can transplant it anytime to it's larger container. Make this large enough for the life of the plant (I use 3-5 gallon containers) I never want to run out of room (soil) at the point of flowering. If you are pruning, you can get away with smaller containers.


I recommend water* throughout this process because my soil mixture contains initial nutrients like nitrogen, phosphates, guano, seafood, and more. At some point, you'll probably develop your own soil too. Good Luck.

The Vegetative Stage is NEXT.
Looking for some
genuine chronic?

Real Weed

This website is best viewed under the influence of cannabis
(you remember nothing)



* Germination * Cloning * Seeds * How HIGH Test * Buyer Tips * Making Money Online * Humor *

Created by Woodstuck © Copyright 2000-2100

Weeds That Please | Disclaimer
 

Kybudz

Well-Known Member
Never used peroxide I take soak mine 12hours then toss em in soil soak my soil good and presto 2-3 days it's sprouted
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
There is no real "best way". They all work and everyone will say their method is better for such and such a reason. Just do whatever you like.
 

shotnva777

Well-Known Member
Help! Im going to use the shotglass method on the good seeds with a drop of peroxide. Im going to use the "seed sprouting potting soil" afterwards... I got a "good" humidity dome (with holes for SOME air) inside my veg box..... how much light? Are two 40 watt equivalent (1 soft white and one daylight) cfls sufficient or too little or to much?? ?
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
There should be no need for a dome when growing seeds, just clones. 40 watt equiv does not sound like amny real watts, what are they, like 15w or something? With regard to too much, i grew out my first seeds under a 400w hps, they did just fine. I think heat is the issue as opposed to light, as the sun kicks arse over all yet seeds do just fine under her :)
 
Hi all, my first post :)
Ive tried each of the methods above and would agree with the consensuss, you want to be using the shot glass method. I usually use a glass of water inside a sock (for light protection) and place it in a warm place. This is definately the easiest option, you can see when the seeds have cracked simply by taking the glass out of the sock. With both the rockwool method and the paper towel method you run the risk of them drying out and with the paper towel method you cant see the progress of the seed without taking it out of soaking paper, risking damaging the tap root.
Hydrogen peroxide seems a little unnecessary nutbush, theres no point sterilizing your Germ water when you are about to bang it into soil.
Peace :P
 

tip top toker

Well-Known Member
Just because i havn't spotted it yet.

You guys do know you can just put the seed straight in the soil. The way nature created it to be. It works just dandy unsurprisingly. No need for facy tricks and shot glasses and peroxide and such.
 

shufflebotlmfao

New Member
Just because i havn't spotted it yet.

You guys do know you can just put the seed straight in the soil. The way nature created it to be. It works just dandy unsurprisingly. No need for facy tricks and shot glasses and peroxide and such.
yes im sure everyone is aware of that method but he wanted to know what was best way and i told him what works best for me and in diy forum a guy did a side by side test of shotglass,paper towel, and soil and he found that shotglass had best rate of success. but every has there likes and favorite ways of doing things
:peace:
 

shotnva777

Well-Known Member
There should be no need for a dome when growing seeds, just clones. 40 watt equiv does not sound like amny real watts, what are they, like 15w or something? With regard to too much, i grew out my first seeds under a 400w hps, they did just fine. I think heat is the issue as opposed to light, as the sun kicks arse over all yet seeds do just fine under her :)
Sorry if i worded that wrong, its 80 Watts of cfls... one of each spectrum of light. They're equivalent to nearly 200 Watts. Sorry for the miscommunication!

Anyways, I'm going to do the shotglass method and then plant them in small yogurt cups filled with seeding medium, inside of the humidity dome. (Just to keep the environmen and soil hot and moist) I think it sounds like a great mothod, pretty much what the Guy posted about the shotglass method - except smaller cups!!! He said 100% success rate!!
 

shufflebotlmfao

New Member
Hi all, my first post :)
Ive tried each of the methods above and would agree with the consensuss, you want to be using the shot glass method. I usually use a glass of water inside a sock (for light protection) and place it in a warm place. This is definately the easiest option, you can see when the seeds have cracked simply by taking the glass out of the sock. With both the rockwool method and the paper towel method you run the risk of them drying out and with the paper towel method you cant see the progress of the seed without taking it out of soaking paper, risking damaging the tap root.
Hydrogen peroxide seems a little unnecessary nutbush, theres no point sterilizing your Germ water when you are about to bang it into soil.
Peace :P
well that was a excellent first post welcome to site bro
wow first post and already helping i think u will do great here repped for sure and others should too
 

shotnva777

Well-Known Member
Damn.... scratch that, HALF will go under the dome and lights..... other half will be plates and paper towels (my usual method -only about a 50% survival rating, which BLOWS) but it's mostly due to crap seeds! Atleast I THINK bag seeds suck, to try to grow! Female purchased seeds are the way to go.... germination in your hand in 3 minutes flat.
 
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