Been in flower for 20 days

X7GrowerX7

X7GrowerX7

Well-Known Member
I'm growing indoor inside a shed, I'm currently 20 days into flower and I'm using a 1000 watt HPS light. 1 of my plants is about 7-8 inches away from the light and I'm wondering if that will effect it much. The light Is on at night time so the temp is abit colder at night. I've noticed alittle curl to the leaves and wondering if that can be heat stress. Let me know what you think?
 

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grassy007

grassy007

Well-Known Member
You have the right light and all. I might have kept it in the veg state longer, before turning it to flower. Your colas seems to be reaching just a wee bit, maybe not.
 
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humboldthayze420

humboldthayze420

Member
It doesnt matter how close the light is to the plants, as long as the temp on the tallest part of the plant is in a good range typically 70-78 degrees
 
K

kimchibanana

Active Member
gotta hit them with a heavy dose of silica or a pgr cytokin, it stops the stretch, could also spray them with kelp in the first 4 weeks.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
trim top bend in veg to the desired height, your plant will double likely in flower, be smart with veg sizes.
only you know if the light is affecting the leaves. put your hand at the canopy, if it burns you it burns the plant.
when the plant is burned it crisps and could give to shits about it. some of my unruly plants are always burned somewhere no problem
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
humboldthayze420 said:
It doesnt matter how close the light is to the plants, as long as the temp on the tallest part of the plant is in a good range typically 70-78 degrees
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STFW???? Cook'em it will. Young padawan.

18 inch's from the plant - minimum on that 1K. 20-24 is better.

kimchibanana said:
gotta hit them with a heavy dose of silica or a pgr cytokin, it stops the stretch, could also spray them with kelp in the first 4 weeks.
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Si stops the stretch? Did we get our grow book from the Fiction section?

How about you simply flip it at the right point, so it won't get too tall for the area? Otherwise, simply super crop the one's that got away from you. "Better living through chemistry" is not the mantra of growing.

chemphlegm said:
trim top bend in veg to the desired height, your plant will double likely in flower, be smart with veg sizes.
only you know if the light is affecting the leaves. put your hand at the canopy, if it burns you it burns the plant.
when the plant is burned it crisps and could give to shits about it. some of my unruly plants are always burned somewhere no problem
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Yeah! That'll teach'em! :cuss:

:bigjoint:
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
I've been fortunate to not have to fret over the little things. multiple plants, perpetual harvesting etc keeps many fresh weed strains around daily, so when one is bunk, or burned, or whatever I really could give two chits. I always have copies, especially of that

"this is your last run, I'm done begging you".......
 
K

kimchibanana

Active Member
Dr. Who said:
STFW???? Cook'em it will. Young padawan.

18 inch's from the plant - minimum on that 1K. 20-24 is better.



Si stops the stretch? Did we get our grow book from the Fiction section?

How about you simply flip it at the right point, so it won't get too tall for the area? Otherwise, simply super crop the one's that got away from you. "Better living through chemistry" is not the mantra of growing.



Yeah! That'll teach'em! :cuss:

:bigjoint:
Click to expand...
From OSA28 website:

Countless studies show silicic acid affecting plant structure. It's one of the most visible and quickest effects growers report. Silicic acid builds more rigid and compact cells. It also helps convert more nitrates into proteins, which impacts node spacing and increases flowering sites.

"Double dose by root or foliar to reduce stretching in early bloom"

Well then.... One of us is wrong and I don't think it's me... soooo.
 
Buba Blend

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
kimchibanana said:
From OSA28 website:

Countless studies show silicic acid affecting plant structure. It's one of the most visible and quickest effects growers report. Silicic acid builds more rigid and compact cells. It also helps convert more nitrates into proteins, which impacts node spacing and increases flowering sites.

"Double dose by root or foliar to reduce stretching in early bloom"

Well then.... One of us is wrong and I don't think it's me... soooo.
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Dude! A website that sells products isn't going to cut it here. A website that ends in edu with some links would be nice.
 
Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
kimchibanana said:
From OSA28 website:

Countless studies show silicic acid affecting plant structure. It's one of the most visible and quickest effects growers report. Silicic acid builds more rigid and compact cells. It also helps convert more nitrates into proteins, which impacts node spacing and increases flowering sites.

"Double dose by root or foliar to reduce stretching in early bloom"

Well then.... One of us is wrong and I don't think it's me... soooo.
Click to expand...
This is what happens when you source your info from of a company with something to sell, you regurgitate nothing but the positives.

They say silica kills this and that, even down to pathogens. So My question from that was, if it kills/inhibits pathogens, how.. and why is it able to differentiate from good/bad microbial life?.

You know what I found?, not a lot. Not a great deal of info on how silica works in that context under the soil. What I did find is that silica will trigger the release of many enzymes from the plant if under attack. One of those enzymes is ''anti microbial''. Not very specific, what type of microbe? anti good, anti bad or anti all?. Does it initiate the enzymes root wide or only in effected parts. I ask this because many studies clearly state silica in it's natural state is not readily available. In essence, my question now is, does adding a readily available form of silica to the roots force trigger a root wide defense of ''anti microbial root signals'' that cut off access to all microbes. One study I read quite alarmingly backed this theory up as it stated that certain plants treated with readily available SI showed all the increased benefits you described, but lower growth on account of all the defense triggers. I assume that will in turn effect yield and I also assume that reduction is from a trade off in the reduction of beneficial microbial sync.

In that presumed context. If you were in a hydro setting with no microbes and had slight to severe root problems, feeding silica to force on anti microbe signals and other defences (in this case anti bad microbes.. as it's all that is there) may increase yield. In a soil or coco setting where a variety of good microbes can be used, studies already state the microbes are able to protect the roots from attack. I currently don't feel safe adding a readily available source of silica to the roots when the current info on how it interacts with microbial life is so vague.

Admittedly I've only done a few hours reading on this so if you or any other advocate of silica has the ability to counter my assumptions, please do so.
 
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Flowki

Flowki

Well-Known Member
The other main thing that bothers me about silica is this. They state the razor like shards of silica are able to cut open and dehydrate/kill pathogens or what ever the claim is. How do we know that refined readily available silica is not able to also cut through beneficial microbes (if the initial claim itself is even true) or damage the pathways they create. In nature Silica is apparently released slowly and in somewhat static/stationary locations . It seems what we are doing with it is pouring liquid razor blades (as we are lead to believe) through the soil in it's entirety, like a knife and cheese. It dries to a salt state, then we re-hydrate it next irrigation and wash it on. I also would like to know how these shards are able to cut open biological life but somehow draw the line at cutting open root hairs. Is it a literal size thing that protects the microbes/pathways and root/hairs?.
 
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Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
kimchibanana said:
From OSA28 website:

Countless studies show silicic acid affecting plant structure. It's one of the most visible and quickest effects growers report. Silicic acid builds more rigid and compact cells. It also helps convert more nitrates into proteins, which impacts node spacing and increases flowering sites.

"Double dose by root or foliar to reduce stretching in early bloom"

Well then.... One of us is wrong and I don't think it's me... soooo.
Click to expand...
I do! How do I know? Over 40 years of growing helps. All my life on growing anything else, I grew up on a farm. I farm in my retirement (organic) and my jobs have all been in growing - Actually running the facilities!

I don't have to spell it out as Flowki did a bang up job on that!

If your in soil. The plant gets all the Si it needs from the soil. Hydro plants don't "need" to be supplemented with it but, it's not a bad idea....Besides proper quality hydro nutrients. Contain all you'll need...

Si will help regulate P uptake, a bit... Helps with drought tolerance, a bit. Makes for stronger cell walls (in hydro use), a bit more..... It's said to "irritate" the plant into creating more trich's. Ok but, other things do that better, and do more for the plant in other ways too. Far better to use a sulfate like, potassium sulfate and/or Magnesium sulfate. Don't forget Manganese sulfate. That will increase plant potency but, there are many things you need to know about it's use and it's relationship with other minerals. Not so much with the Mg and K sulfates.

Adding Si to feed solutions, needs to be done in a particular order or it will react with Ca and form a precipitate that voids (locks out) the availability of each.....Not to mention it will have effect on pH over time.....in soil..... I don't even like the Si family in pH up products! I don't use it other then what my soils may get from added garden gypsum..

There are many things said to "help" the stretch. Most are wive's tales or simply do little. In other words, I haven't found anything that has a profound effect on decreasing the stretch. Running your MH bulb for the first 2 weeks does little but, maybe the thing that has any "real" effect. Minor but, effect nonetheless.

The best way to control the stretch? Don't veg them too long! Flip them at the right height to start with...considering how much they will stretch....

"Problem" solved before it starts...
 
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