BC Northern Lights Producer Grow #2

mrbill

Active Member
Hey Bigbux,

With a portable room A/C you will need to vent the heat from it outside. I had one of those too, before I bought my chiller. I also ran the a/c vent directly to the Box intake, but the results and extra electric weren't the right cure for my heat problems. Can you run the light exhaust vent outside or to another room?
 

Bigbux

Active Member
Yes I think so. What do I connect the ducting to the box with? I've seen different braces and stuff, but not sure exactly what I'd need or if these fans are strong enough to push it out.
 

85kryptonite

Active Member
where do you guys get your water from to use in the res, cuz you dont use tap water do you? and also im confused on how do you know what different nutes to use and how much of each nute to use throughout the grow. does it say how much ppm's should be at each time throughout the grow or what?
 

ancap

Active Member
Bigbux,

I have a portable AC unit right behind my box and I direct the cold airflow directly to the box intake. I also run my lights at night instead of during the day. The lights are going off when the sun is starting to rise. Make sure to exhaust all hot air outside the grow room if at all possible. For roots I use AN's Tarantula powder and Piranha powder, as well as Sensizym. So far, I've never had root rot, and I don't have heat issues (over two full grows). This is only a half truth though, because the heat at the very top of the grow chamber can stress and dry out the top colas in the heat zone. I think I will solve this by installing a fan inside the top corner of the grow chamber.

For water, I recycle the water from my dehumidifyer and portable AC units (I have one in my bedroom too). This water is incredibly useful and clean. I typically collect between one and two gallons a day with the ppm being about 15. If you have to use tap water, let it sit overnight so any chlorine can evaporate. A ppm of 120 isn't too bad. My tap water is about the same.
 

Bigbux

Active Member
What model do you use? How many watts or electricity does it take and do you have to vent the heat from AC unit outside?
 

stillcantroll

Active Member
There's nothing wrong with using tap water, as long as it's city water and not well water. I would not for a second recommend using well water, but I'm assuming you're city treated anyways. Test your water with a PPM meter. If it's anywhere below Id say 200, you're fine. If it's above that, a reverse osmosis filter might be an idea. Bigbux, box temperatures that you're seeing (80 or so) should not be enough to heat stress your plants in my opinion. And typically a box temperature of 80 will mean a res temperature of 72-75, which is totally fine with the right amount of dissolved oxygen. Might want to check your other variables. did you look at them during the beginning of a night cycle or something?

And as for the ducting, these machines typically come with the equipment to duct it out of your room. Go to the BCNL website, and on the video section there is a tutorial to install the ducting. I have that option running out of my room in concert with my AC's hot air venting out as well and it keeps the room very chilly, I love it. My ducting is only about 5 feet on one and about 7 on the other mind you, and they connect into a T before going out. Still does help though, by about 4-5 degrees id say. (my box temp was 85-90 before the AC and hot air ducting, now its about 70).

Ancaps suggestion about water collection is a fantastic idea, and I use it myself for keeping my water levels topped off throughout the week, but I don't collect enough to for actual res changes. For those, I just measure out 35 litres, and leave it out for a day.

By the way, I'm going to be conducting some experiments related to cannabis plants tolerance of chlorine. I've heard from several very reputable places that it's for the most part hype. Hype in the sense that the levels we see in our tap water aren't nearly close to enough to damage the plant. In fact several growers on here use bleach in lieu of hydrogen peroxide to keep their roots white, and I've been told it's a trick used by the commercial hydroponics industry. I'm going to start by not leaving my tap water out, then subbing h2o2 out for bleach if that goes well. It would be nice to have something not quite as 'moody' as h2o2 to keep my res clean.

As for the 2 litres, I find them to bring the water down about 10 degrees over the span of a bout 1.5-2 hours, then slowly back up to where it was over the span of about 4. I find that using this with my air conditioner on extends that 4 hour period to about 8 making it very effective as a suppliment but not a silver bullet on its own. I am currently only using one, but I was experimenting with as much as 3. I was even experimenting with 2 4litre frozen milk jugs, which would bring my temps down as low as 50 degrees, but they leak, and it was way overkill.
 

ancap

Active Member
What model do you use? How many watts or electricity does it take and do you have to vent the heat from AC unit outside?
It is an Everstar 8000 BTU's. I believe it uses 900 watts when it is running. Mine doesn't constantly need to run though since the lights run at night and the room temperature is much lower, with the help of my central AC. It is probably only running 20-30% of the time set at 76. Keep in mind for comparison purposes, I live in a hot and humid state. I run all my ducting into my attic so as not to have hot air pouring out my windows. I happen to have an extra room with an attic access that I use to vent into. Every situation is different. It just takes a bit of creativity to make it work (creativity often means ghetto rigging something).
 

Bigbux

Active Member
Anybody know If I have a cover on my rubbermaid while my city water sits out for a day will the chlorine still settle? And, does the chlorine actually go anywhere or just settle on the bottom?
 

Bigbux

Active Member
Thats what i was wondering but then i wanted cover on to make sure dust and stuff didn't go in. It's a tough decision. BTW, ancap, aren't u about ready to cut here soon?
 

Bigbux

Active Member
was 3500 now 3700. plus 300 to 500 for shipping. theres a touchscreen enhancement that has readings for temp, humidity, co2, ph and ppm and adjusts as needed but that system is an additional 3300. I stuck with the basic producer and got a couple extra things like ph pen, ppm pen, air pump, 2 more airstones, temp and humidity gage all for like an extra hundo. Much more economical than the 3300 touchscreen-tho it would be nice. Also you'l need a co2 tank. They cant ship em. And prolly a shop-vac to get the last bit of water out of rez. All-in-all theres about 2000 to 2400 in parts and supplies they give you and it's worth the extra grand for me to have it professionally built and it's been tried and tested and improved thoroughly. Despite the few enhancements I felt I needed to make I am stiill quite happy wth it:)
 

Bigbux

Active Member
BCNL raised all prices May 1. My roots are a lil brown!!!!!!!! SHit!!!! I'm very worried. And I use voodoo juice so I can't use H2o2 right? Rez temp=72-75. Boxtemp= 79-83 but I use co2. I've read the journals of ppl who got root rot and they aren't that brown yet but they were pure white a few days ago. Any suggestions?
 

stillcantroll

Active Member
if you use h2o2 youll be destroying the voodoo juice, so thats a bad idea. A little bit of browning can some times be rockwool residue. What you want to keep your eyes out for is stunted root growth, slimey roots, or any sort of foul odour.

Start using more frozen bottles, get that temp lower asap.
 

ancap

Active Member
BCNL raised all prices May 1. My roots are a lil brown!!!!!!!! SHit!!!! I'm very worried. And I use voodoo juice so I can't use H2o2 right? Rez temp=72-75. Boxtemp= 79-83 but I use co2. I've read the journals of ppl who got root rot and they aren't that brown yet but they were pure white a few days ago. Any suggestions?
Are you using B-52 from Advanced Nutrients? It could be that product or another. Your roots will not stay white if they are constantly submerged in a brown solution. :) Keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't start stinking. I've never had root rot, but I am using beneficial bacteria that eat up anything that can rot in the res. Your temps sound fine.
 

Bigbux

Active Member
I do use B-52! Good call! However today they are wilty on top and looked totally healthy on top yesterday. The rez KINDA smells like warm nastiness but nothing as bad as I've heard ppl with rot smell. So I'm praying. I want to start a journal but the 5 hr a day plus maintainance is really eatin into my time:) Another problem I have is my clones are different ages. Half of 'em were about a wk ahead andare 7-10". The other half are 3-5". I have no idea when to flower becuz I don't want to do it too soon and waste the lil guys or wait much longer and have the problem Ancap had the first time around.
 
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