Barney's Farm - Tangerine Dream - Waterfarm!

realnyjuggalo23

Active Member
welll done bud...................where did u get the screening......ur scrog looks well in order......................
Here's a pic update this evening - still spreading this plant to fill the screen. There's a few branches that are moving faster than others and have reached further out towards the edges - but lots of tops are starting to fill in the middle too. After the rez is changed out tomorrow evening and the ppm's bumped up to between 900 - 950, it will be the final week of veg. I'll use 2 gal of add-back solution and once it's gone i'll be flipping the light to 12/12.

Enjoy the pic update - the last one was taken with the light covered to get that darker look. I was almost finished weaving the tops down before these were taken.... :leaf:
:weed:
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
The girl is looking good this evening - very green with lots of signs of those sweet looking, freshly starting tops. I did a complete change-out of the rez and bumped up the ppms some. I removed the drip-ring and gave it a thorough cleaning which it needed - nice dripping-action still like new, no problems with clogging! I don't regret leaving the tin-foil off at this point still - I think it's not as big of a concern if you keep the drips close to the hydroton so the water kind-of 'flows' out of the holes kinetically and down through the top-pot.

Lots of tucking and moving of tops again today - really starting to get closer to the edges. It's still looking like this will be the final week of veg - maybe even mid-week she'll get switched over - not sure yet.

I'm going to wait until next weekend to post more pics so there will be more to see and a nicer comparison between pic updates. :leaf:
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
welll done bud...................where did u get the screening......ur scrog looks well in order......................
Thanks juggalo - I put that flimsy thing together from a few measured-and-cut wooden edging pieces from HD, stapled to a plastic garden fencing piece. The holes had to be cut bigger to 4", but it works well. Next time I think I'm going to try to find something like a volley-ball net and stretch that across instead.
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
Hey Dayzt, I recently bought and installed an Eliminator Medium Reverse Osmosis System (100 Gallons Per Day,) which I'm happy with. It was about $185 with shipping, though I didn't shop around very much.

View attachment 1603465
Cool - thanks kriz - I've been looking around town and have found a few different systems I'm interested in. I'm going to get something that will double as a drinking-water setup, which will be setup under the kitchen sink with a small tap installed above by the taps. It looks like we're getting the nicer one which will be about $550, but we plan to use this long-term and we drink a ton of water, so it will mean we save the $$ from buying bottled water all the time as well...
 

dishinit

Active Member
Thanks juggalo - I put that flimsy thing together from a few measured-and-cut wooden edging pieces from HD, stapled to a plastic garden fencing piece. The holes had to be cut bigger to 4", but it works well. Next time I think I'm going to try to find something like a volley-ball net and stretch that across instead.
Dayzt, May I suggest for your next screen, that you employ some of SVT's string screen ideas.
I did, and will now construct all my screens that way. As I discovered that my plastic bottom screen edges that I cut to open up grid space, would grab and tear at leaves as I tucked & pulled and is/was way less forgiving than string.
I used PVC to construct mine, but wood would work equally well.
The "how to" was put together with the addition of a 2nd screen in mind, many strains will not require a 2nd screen, but the construction concept remains the same.
Here is how I constructed:
"Can do with hand drill but this made it easier for me.....Invest in a cheap but good counter top drill press (under $75.00). You will find future use for it, I guarantee it. If using a hand drill, drill over a block of wood or some such.
I use 1/2" schedule 40, PVC pipe & slip to slip 90 degree angle fittings with a down leg (3 legs in all), could be called a 90 degree Tee.
Measure & cut your PVC, then lay out your scrog frame, dry fit, and mark your grid spacing (I am using a 5" opening). Make sure you mirror the spacing on opposite leg side.
Disassemble and use a length of string taped to both ends of the pre-marked length of PVC to be drilled, and laid across your marks to center align your holes to be drilled. Mark, then drill holes larger than string through both sides of pipe.
Re-assemble the frame (I leave mine dry fitted as I attach the bottom frame using tie wraps to the tent poles to secure) This also lets me tear it all down to future modify & store. I think, if pulled taut enough, the string itself would hold all together.
The bottom frame has it's 90 degree third leg pointing up to receive a set of yet to be determined spacer legs, from the top screen. The top screen obviously has it's 90 degree third leg pointed down.
Use a smaller drill bit (than the one you used to drill the holes) with string taped to it to use as needle to thread the PVC frame.

Start your weave for the 1st grid on the outside of the frame on one end, and pull through to opposing side, then on to the next set of holes on the frame and back again, repeat until complete, then tie off the starting point and pull taut each leg of the grid & tie off.
Based on my existing screen, I would use a 12 lb or thicker string to do a Tennis Racquet weave to create a grid in one direction. I don't think I would use a heavy cord, I want some limited flexibility, SVT uses string and was able to move, position & train 6' plants under a 42" high screen. So check out what is available.

Then weave the opposing grid over and under the the 1st grid (like a tennis racquet), I chose not to wrap around the opposing grid as it appears in SVT's pics (I may be incorrect about this) as this allowed a very quick assembly and was easier to tighten for me.
I now prefer string over my modded snow screen to use as bottom scrog screen as it allows me to open squares up to aid when tucking and pulling and does not have sharp edges (where I cut out sections to create a 4" grid pattern). These sharp sections would grab and tear at leaves and colas as I tucked & pulled and contributed to unnecessary damage during training process.
Another added benefit is the ability to cut away the upper & lower scrog grid at some point during harvest/cleanup. I would imagine this would make things infinitely easier at that point.
SVT is really on to something here.
I determined the height of my upper screen by averaging existing cola growth and building to that....turns out 8" was a good average height for me at this point, and as I have 7 weeks of growth left. I can always swap out legs one by one, and raise the upper screen without damaging the plant if cola growth demands it.
I discovered an extra benefit with the top screen once installed, and it was the ability to tuck and pull some of the more aggressive colas to re-position them and gain some additional canopy control."

I hope this is clear and proves some worth to you. Once initially done, I would estimate less than 15 to 20 minutes to re-assemble & re-weave for new scrog.
best, dishinit
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
Okay, okay - I couldn't resist! Here's a quick pic update. Everything is going great! She's drinking about 3/4 of a gallon per day right now. I've got about a gallon and a half left in my add-back bucket, then I'll do another rez change-out and flip my lights to 12/12. :bongsmilie:

5.8 pH
~1000 ppm


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Dayzt

Well-Known Member
I'm planning on doing 54 hrs of darkness between light cycles. I was only going to do 36 hrs, but I want my lights-on time to remain at 7 pm so I added extra hours in order to keep that schedule. I've read that it's good to give between 36-72 hrs of darkness between cycles to force the plants to 'reset' itself and perform better/faster in flowering. We'll see! I'm also thinking about using the gas-light light cycle for flowering where the change to 12/12 is gradual, with the amount of darkness increasing week after week into the flowering stage...
 

dishinit

Active Member
I'm planning on doing 54 hrs of darkness between light cycles. I was only going to do 36 hrs, but I want my lights-on time to remain at 7 pm so I added extra hours in order to keep that schedule. I've read that it's good to give between 36-72 hrs of darkness between cycles to force the plants to 'reset' itself and perform better/faster in flowering. We'll see! I'm also thinking about using the gas-light light cycle for flowering where the change to 12/12 is gradual, with the amount of darkness increasing week after week into the flowering stage...
The gradual transition is something I'm interested in. Sounds a lot more natural than Wham Bang, we're on 12/12. I read a posting today that talked about dropping a 1/2 hour per day or week (don't remember) to reach the 12/12 cycle, claimed it increased yield by 25%?
How would you know for sure? is the question.
Your TD is looking better and better.
I would now start to think about pulling a few lower fan leaves (a few a day or every other day) below screen that will not see the light. Start at the base of the trunk and slowly work up over the next three weeks and beyond. This is also the time to think about taking cuttings.
Don't do too many at a time, the name of the game is promoting growth above the screen by taking away growth that will never make it to the screen................ without stressing the plant.
I still cringe a bit as I chop away new suckers and most of my fan leaf removal is now centered on leaves that are starting to die from lack of light.
I would also recommend fans above and below the screen, these being to promote ventilation.
It's gonna get exciting....good show.
 

Someguy15

Well-Known Member
I'm planning on doing 54 hrs of darkness between light cycles. I was only going to do 36 hrs, but I want my lights-on time to remain at 7 pm so I added extra hours in order to keep that schedule. I've read that it's good to give between 36-72 hrs of darkness between cycles to force the plants to 'reset' itself and perform better/faster in flowering. We'll see! I'm also thinking about using the gas-light light cycle for flowering where the change to 12/12 is gradual, with the amount of darkness increasing week after week into the flowering stage...
The latter is much more natural. I always just change from 18/6 directly to 12/12 seems to flip fine for me. Only thing I noticed by using 24 or 48 hours of dark was they stretched more and put on little to no nodes. As always opinions are like assholes around here, but I would avoid long periods of dark in the middle of your cycles.
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the tips guys - after some thought, I've decided to try out the dark period between cycles. Up until now, I've always just flipped the cycle - we'll see if the darkness helps any - can't knock it until you try it, right? So my lights-out period was 30 hours before setting them to 12/12 before lights-on this past Sunday. So the plant is now on it's 2nd day of 12/12. My ppms are up around 12-1300, but I did a complete rez change out again this evening and will now need more water tomorrow. Next weekend there's an installer coming to put in an RO system by the kitchen sink, so I'll have a constant supply of RO water finally! I took 8 clones this evening as well - most them are quite large and healthy - put them in rockwool cubes and used rooting powder on them. They're in my humidity dome now on the heat-pad. My goal is to get them all to root - but I still don't have have official 'homes' for them, as I don't really have the time or space for them once they root!

Okay, here's some pics - fresh from this evening. Tons of tucking/weaving to do each day now, and she's drinking about a gallon of water per day at this point. It's getting harder to move tops out towards the edges, but I'm expecting a real jump in growth now, so I'll only tuck them for a few more days I think, then I'll let it go. There's over 30 tops that I expect to have real nice tops, 10-15 or more tops are 'average' and look to be a bit more behind... we'll see how they do going into flowering. Everything is SO lush and green! Lovin it!


Overall view - you can see my pile of trimmings in the bottom-right corner of the tent, also a glass full of cuttings that I chose 8 of, and put into my cloning dome.




Great looking canopy - getting more 'push' from below now, but I have the screen tied down in the middle in a few places to help.




Nice side-view showing what I have to deal with beneath the canopy. I've trimmed quite a lot but still have a long way to go - over the next week or two, I'll trim away most of the clutter down there.




A few more pics from the sides and closer in...








A pic of my 'cup-o-clones'.... still no homes for these - 'tis a shame! If these root out well, I may need to find a place for 'em... I'll try to get some pics of my cloning dome soon..



..posting again in the next few days to update my pH and ppm test.

:leaf:
 

realnyjuggalo23

Active Member
do u know your res temp??????and do u have an air stone in the res??????????????jw.................the scrog looks great..........keep up the good work
thinking about investing in a grow tent.....................for my next indoor grow in the fall..........
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
do u know your res temp??????and do u have an air stone in the res??????????????jw.................the scrog looks great..........keep up the good work
thinking about investing in a grow tent.....................for my next indoor grow in the fall..........
Hey! I've never really kept track of my res temps - I've got the waterfarm up on styrofoam pieces so it's insulated from the cold basement floor. The water temperature can't be much colder than room temperature so I've never been concerned about it.

I don't use an extra air-stone in the res, as I was told that it's not necessary since I've already upgraded the air-pump from the one that comes with the waterfarm to a 30-gallon pump - lots of air moving already from that. I also drilled many more holes in the bottom of the hydroton bucket - so I should have a ton of roots in the bottom bucket once the grow is complete, and lots of cleaning to do with the hydroton to reuse it. I'm guessing my next grow using these same hydroton pellets will have a smoother start now that the hydroton is 'seasoned' from this round...

I only use grow tents indoors - I've got a large tent that is still waiting to be cleaned up for the new waterfarms (that I haven't ordered yet) with two 600w cooltube lights in it. The great thing about the tents is the ability to control your temps and humidity closely, without damaging your house. Proper ventilation and filtering isn't too hard once you have it dialed-in.
 

SmokeAL0t

Well-Known Member
I only The great thing about the tents is the ability to control your temps and humidity closely, without damaging your house. Proper ventilation and filtering isn't too hard once you have it dialed-in.
"Indoor greenhouses" are the shit! Great advice - I'd suggest them to most anyone not growing large scale.
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
The tests are in...

5.7 pH
1330 ppm


It seems like I bumped up the ppm by quite a lot, but she doesn't appear to be phased from the large jump! Everything is looking good - lots of perkiness and fresh green growth coming in - no burnt leaf-tips or any deficiencies that I can see yet...

The clones are all doing very well - I was able to get some fresh rain-water to use as a foliar on the clones and they seems to like it. If I can't find homes for these clones, I may just throw them in small pots and put them into flower once their ready - not sure yet...

Notes:

- water uptake is still at about 3/4 of a gallon per day but I expect this to increase more and more now... the RO system will be installed this weekend, just in time!
- I've tested my rainwater and found that it's at 35 ppm and 7.5 pH, pretty close to my RO water! It was nice to have it on-hand to use for my clones - pH'd it down to 6.0 and filled my foliar spray bottle.
- with the ppms as high as they are now, it's incredibly easy to maintian the pH at ~5.6 - 6.0 - thanks to the flora nova's pH buffers.
- lots left to trim under the canopy - I've started to work my way up the trunk and stems, cutting away 3-4 good handfuls of leaf each day. There's still some decent cuttings I could be keeping as clones, but there's no way I can keep more than the already rooting 8 at a time...
- next weekend or the one after, i'll need to get some new pots for the clones as they should be rooted enough to xplant by then... and once they've had about a week to settle into the pots, they can go into the big tent and flower under the 600w...hope there's enough room!! =)
 

Dayzt

Well-Known Member
Here's a pic update, 7 days into flowering. Enjoy!!











Here's a pic of my clone-dome. They're doing pretty good so far - not showing roots quite yet, but should be in the next few days.



:leaf:
 
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