Azamax in my DWC rez is creating foam

I have root aphids (not the problem). As part of my solution to the aphids I am using Azamax in my res.

-20 gal H20 res (home depot cement mixing tub)
-res temp aqua chilled to 65f
-1x 240gph powerhead to ciruclate water
-8 plants in a

So I just flipped my reservoir and it only has H20 and Azamax at a .01% (half of the lowest recommended dosage for a hydroponics application of this size).

I do pump tons of air into the res and that is what's causing the foam/mass tiny bubbles. When I shut the AIR pumps off, the foam disappears within minutes. I don't want to keep the pumps turned off, roots love that oxygen. The foam is causing some of my roots to float on top of it and within it, which I don't like.

My questions:
1. Will this foam stop?
2. Should I immediately add my nute line up back into the rez?
3. Or should I let the H20 and Azamax circulate around? If I let it circulate, then for how long?
4. Can I leave the Azamax in there until I flip the res again in two weeks?

Bueller. Bueller. Buelller. Anyone?

My suggestion in which I use azatrol not azamax is to only follier spray when the lights are off for might control. I know people say it works in the root system but just saying I wouldn't do it. And you should change your red the maximum 10 days I usually go 7 the plants as they get bigger usually eat up the nutes and water pretty good

I have bugs in the roots. I need to address them. How will foliar spraying my plants address the bugs in the roots? I'm not screwing around...I already poured Zero Tolerance over the medium and the roots, let them sit in Azamax for a few days, and soon my Beneficial Nematodes are showing up. Can you say good by bugs?

---Anyways....it doesn't matter, I'm flipping the res today because I have brown algae in it as well. Time to sterilize and renute it. (i'm not haivng a good week in terms of my reservoirs becoming contaminated)

This is normal, Azamax will foam. When I use azamax, I add it, let it run for 24 hours then clean res and add nutes and fresh water, then 3-4 days later I repeat. Its very important to repeat, this first application kills adults and larvae, but not eggs. 3-4 days the eggs hatch and the second application kills them.

My 3 pronged approach will get rid of any eggs, babies, etc. Read up on Beneficial/Predatory Nematoads. They're the end-all-be-all I think. From what I remember, they find a bug, drill into it, lay some of its eggs or something inside the bug. The nematode babies will eat their way out, killing the bug. The nemababies will then search other other bugs to to repeat this process. Ed Rosenthal's website www.quicktrading.com/growtips.html says this.....


Biological control is an even more effective method of eliminating the pests. Beneficial nematodes are microscopic worms which attack all kinds of soil dwelling insects. They are available at many nurseries and by mail order. They are inoculated into the medium by adding them to the irrigation water just before it is to be used. The nematodes search out the pupae and then invade and eat them from the inside out. Then they reproduce and the cycle repeats. Within a week or so the mature flies die, and virtually no pupae emerge from the inoculated medium.