I have a 5 week old autoflower in recycled happy frog soil with Coast of Maine compost added. It was fed the recommended dose for an auto of Coast of Maine veg nutrients at week 3. Plant was doing really well up until preflower when it hit a brick wall. Leaves started wilting and yellowing and felt dry to the touch. I thought my lights were too strong so I pulled them back and dimmed them. Unfortunately the plant is still rapidly worsening. I'm currently brewing some roots organic bloom terp tea. That should cover most of the flowering nutrients like potassium, calcium, magnesium, etc. I'm assuming the deficiency is with one of those but I haven't been able to quite match my leaves with any I've seen online. Any ideas or anything else I should be doing right now?
Autoflower dying fast
- Thread starter ryan51993
- Start date
"To high" check your water PH first, great advice..leaf burn??
I use one of these meters it shows all the information you need see my pictures, PH, Moisture, Light Meter.
I got it at Temu I want this one next https://temu.to/k/u2i8e8xhthc
I got it at Temu I want this one next https://temu.to/k/u2i8e8xhthc
Attachments
Soil is recycled Happy Frog amended with Coast of Maine compost per the instructions from my local grow store owner. My PH is fine. Water going in is 6.8-7.0 and soil itself is currently 6.5. Also another plant grown in the same soil with the same water is as green as can be. I do agree it looks like potassium to an extent but I haven't seen any pictures of potassium deficient plants developing rust spots like mine so I'm not sure. Thank you.
Last edited:
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Sorry to say but that meter is a joke. Best thing that can do for you is keep a door open.
Nutty sKunK
Well-Known Member
The pH and Light meter is very basic and should be taken with a grain of salt but I have to say the moisture meter works well and can clear confusion on when to water in some circumstances
Stormcookie
New Member
Phosphorus deficient
it's not the best but it's better than nothing. here is a picture of the light meter in the Aussie sun at 9.30 am sunny day
Attachments
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
If you can't tell the diff between what something wet vs something dry feels well ... I won't even say it lol
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
So the sun = 1000?
Lol
Nothing would be far better. You won't be chasing magical numbers that aren't even close to correct.
any suggestions for a good meter would be great? what do you use?
fresh peat need chemicals to go through! so PH is probably right..
Wastei
Well-Known Member
pH is probably on the lower side with a re-used peat based mix that needs re-amendmendts to keep pH in range like lime and gypsum that's typically added.
It's very hard to tell either or without knowing what's in the actual plant food? They seem to only have low nitrogen formulas and that tells me Calcium and Magnesium is probably on the lower side in their base formula.
I always re-amended with gypsum between runs an added Epsom salt to the feed when I was running Pro-Mix and Dyna-Gro. Dyna Gro is also pretty low in Mg in their base formula.
It's very hard to tell either or without knowing what's in the actual plant food? They seem to only have low nitrogen formulas and that tells me Calcium and Magnesium is probably on the lower side in their base formula.
I always re-amended with gypsum between runs an added Epsom salt to the feed when I was running Pro-Mix and Dyna-Gro. Dyna Gro is also pretty low in Mg in their base formula.
Thanks for the advice I think the meter is crap like mentioned, I tested it in my outdoor pots silver/purple haze cross, they have a mix of soil peat chook shit sheep shit. in the tent I just run these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/174856783164?var=474029786226
I stuck 2 ph meters in to see. picture attached. my meters are no good? I'm lost should I get ph test papers instead?
Attachments
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Really, you don't need a while bunch of crazy meters. All you really could use is a quality pH pen like an apera, blue labs, Milwaukee, or Hanna.
But you could get by with strips or the old aquarium pH test kit
If you want to know your mediums ph, you need a pH tester with a soil probe.
I use a quantum par meter for light. I have a photobio phantom. It provides the correct readings and you're able to make a better assessment on the amount of light you are giving at any given time. Truthfully I barely even use it anymore. I just go by what the plants are telling me.
If you want to know how saturated the medium is you want a tensiometer it reads in mbar and it basically measures how much force the roots need to use to uptake water.
Personally, I believe if you aren't using the right tools you aren't getting the right readings and if you aren't getting right readings then you're doing the complete opposite of what you were trying to do in the first place....
Yep you right! good point.
Nutty sKunK
Well-Known Member
Well that’s obvious. Autos are started mostly in large containers with people who have only grown cress.
It’s not easy to water a seedling in a 5 gallon pot. The edges dry fast but the centre stays moist but just how moist?
They have their place but are quickly left to collect dust once one gets some proper growing experience