Auto Fem Seed harvest AUTOXTREME, PAKISTAN RYDER, SUPERSONIC CRYSTAL STORM

I just shook those sacs around that I collected yesterday, and used the tip of my finger to collecct the pollen from the foil in the tub , which made a semi-thick yellow powder on my finger. seems to have worked better because I can actually see yellow colour on most of the female pistils now that i rubbed my finger tip over. So If that don't pollinate them I guess I have no hope lol after I had done that, i just sprinkled all the ground up pieces of sacs over the pistils lol (may have lost my mind at this point) :leaf:
 
lowblower said:
I just shook those sacs around that I collected yesterday, and used the tip of my finger to collecct the pollen from the foil in the tub , which made a semi-thick yellow powder on my finger. seems to have worked better because I can actually see yellow colour on most of the female pistils now that i rubbed my finger tip over. So If that don't pollinate them I guess I have no hope lol after I had done that, i just sprinkled all the ground up pieces of sacs over the pistils lol (may have lost my mind at this point) :leaf:
Click to expand...

just be careful that ur fingers ain't sweaty or they will consuuuume the pollen. Found that out this morning when I did another round of pollen sac collecting and pollenating
 
FIRST SEED!

So this will be Supersonic Crystal Storm female X Autoxtreme female

- the smell on the SCS is a very rich woody smell with hints of vanilla and a hint of lowryder

- the autoxtreme grew male sacks all over after spraying with Tiresias mist for 2 weeks. Even the branch that was left unsprayed grew loads of sacks, so she could not be self pollinated. I used her pollen on the SCS and the PR before she was laid to rest. She did however form some THC so I had a glimpse of her smell, after rubbing with my fingers it was a very intense a fresh citrus/aloe smell. Really unique and really moreish

Supersonic crystal storm

2661910d1368898985-12-12-seed-durban-poison-supersonic-crystal-storm.jpg


The pakistan ryder

Not sure if she is pollinated. She is very slow in flowering. Been about 6 weeks now and she seems to be putting out more tiny little sativa leaves than buds right now. But shes getting there, just taking her sweet time.

2661908d1368898963-12-12-seed-durban-poison-pakistan-ryder.jpg
 
Officially have my first feminized Autoxtreme X Supersonic Crystal Storm seed!!

Its average sized, but brown with dark brown mottled effect, it was encased in a dying calyx.

I think I will call it 'the perfect storm' because Im a cheesy c**t

I could call it Dominatrix, (due to the Supersonic crystal storm parents being Black Domina X lowryder)?

But they both sound kinda dismal. I need something more 'sunny'

How can I convert Storm, and Xtreme, into something positive? :-P
 
I'm at day 62 on my SSCS auto right now... I never see this strain mentioned ever and was always looking for grow logs to help me figure out how long this strain really takes.

Just wanted to chime in because it was cool to actually see it mentioned for once. Pretty eager to try it out soon... surprised how big it got to be honest. It's a little monster bush.
 
originally posted by Kite HighSoma employs "Rodelization" to create fems. He allows the plant (female) to enter senescence, past the peak of potency for the survival trait to kick in and cause male flowers to collect pollen from. IMO this is the worst possible method and has the unintentional promotion of the survival trait as it is employed in the process.

STS is the most widely used method by fem seed breeders as it is inexpensive, safe, easy, and dependable. I already posted previously how to employ this technique and where to obtain the chemicals. You only need to spray 2 or at the most 3 times, a week apart starting the first day of initiating the flower cycle of 12/12 known as the flip.

Colloidal silver also works but you need spray much more often.

Gibberellic acid has other potential effects which are not worth the extra effort.

I have never had a plant treated with STS as in my previous post the did not produce pollen, so IMO it is the better choice and the method I employ exclusively. It as well as colloidal silver have nothing to do with the survival trait and therefore botanically impossible to encourage the dreaded "herman" survival gene/trait.
 
also posted by Kite High ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.

It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.

http://planetganja.net/Ebooks/Marijuana%20Botany.pdf

It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.

Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: 0.5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________________________

.preparation of silver thiosulfate (sts) solution

silver thiosulfate (sts) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as sts thus is seldom used alone.

Prepare a 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate (sts) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of sodium thiosulfate (product no. S 620) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of silver nitrate (product no. S 169) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solution in the dark until needed to prepare the sts.

The sts solution is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of [ag (s2o3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 m sts by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The sts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the sts just prior to use is recommended.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________________________

katolickinet.jpg




A SIMPLE SAFE AND INEXPENSIVE FEMMING METHOD

LINKS TO THE CHEMICALS:

sodium thiosulfate

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Anhydrous.html

Silver Nitrate

http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Sil...10g-P6503.aspx


ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!!
 
^ that sounds like it would be better if your planning on changing a load of plants and need a large solution, but the CS method worked for me so I don't see any reason to use a different tech. Plus CS is actually sold in health shops for sterilizing skin infections, but not sure about the SFS or SN, but I will have a further look into them anyhow. Thanks for the post :leaf:
 
DrGribble said:
I'm at day 62 on my SSCS auto right now... I never see this strain mentioned ever and was always looking for grow logs to help me figure out how long this strain really takes.

Just wanted to chime in because it was cool to actually see it mentioned for once. Pretty eager to try it out soon... surprised how big it got to be honest. It's a little monster bush.
Click to expand...

Have you got a pic of yours?? Post up if you want, I'd like to see your pheno! Man I can't wait to grow these beans out. I think I will call my seeds 'sunny with a chance of light showers'
 
lowblower said:
Have you got a pic of yours?? Post up if you want, I'd like to see your pheno! Man I can't wait to grow these beans out. I think I will call my seeds 'sunny with a chance of light showers'
Click to expand...

Here's a couple I took past day or so, disregard the nasty looking fan leaves that was from a much earlier on issue that I flushed away, it's 30-something inches tall and about equally as wide depending on how it's rotated. It has been growing right where I took the photo because it outgrew the tent and the top got severely light bleached (white, literally).

2667639d1369253498-personal-dwc-medical-grow-600s-auto.jpg


2667640d1369253500-personal-dwc-medical-grow-600s-bud01.jpg
 
Fook-mii. Thats nice!! Mine is tiny, but she did share a pot and get pollinated.....but wow. Thats a big difference. Perhaps there are different phenos? What lights was it under? and was it on 24/0 ?? :weed: I see you have your DWC dialled in nicely :-)
 
lowblower said:
Fook-mii. Thats nice!! Mine is tiny, but she did share a pot and get pollinated.....but wow. Thats a big difference. Perhaps there are different phenos? What lights was it under? and was it on 24/0 ?? :weed: I see you have your DWC dialled in nicely :-)
Click to expand...

Thanks and I agree I thought they seemed pretty meaty compared to what I expected, DWC is pretty awesome. They came from Samsara that's all I know about them (they were a freebie in my seed order last time) but did expect them to be smaller... I am guessing the size difference is in part largely related to being grown in DWC though.

I am running 24/0 they have never once seen the dark in their entire lifespan, were under a 600W MH until they got to about 15" tall then went under HPS, I just switched back to a MH again 2 days ago for photo purposes and debating on wether or not to keep them under the Halide or go back to HPS for the final stretch. There's a pair of Reptisun 10.0 UV lights hanging vertically on the side of the plant and I rotate it a little every day so the Halide may not even be necessary.
 
ok.......not as many as I would have lked.....I got 12 big fat brown seeds. So better than NONE so its cool lol. I've been really busy the past month so haven't had the time to pollenate every day. So I think its definitely wise to keep dried pollen and just brush over new sets of pistils every 4 days for a few weeks. I only brushed twice, around the time when the first pistils had come out.
I also know what to look out for next time in terms of the female pollen sacks being at their ripest, so its all experience! The most exciting thing though will be growing my own cross out. Lets just hope they germinate haha. I might try the SCS and silver nitrate reversing technique next time instead of the colloidal silver, and see how that goes. I know poeple have had success with both methods so i'll just do some personal experimentation :leaf: :peace:
 
found a couple of autoxtreme X pakistan ryder seeds yesterday. TBH im not too sure bout the PR. Its taking ages and seems bout 90:10 leaf-bud ratio so far...not even a skunk smell..
 
Lowblower whats up buddy! your girls look amazing! I'm gettin ready to do a seed run with some dragons I have! keep up the good work!!! and Dr Gribble holy shit with that super sonic crystal!!!! that thing is a monsterous plant!
 
next tme less touching wth fingers
use sumtin else

an dont rub them onto pistils pistils are delacate and sensative
and if you rb against them they start to die and a dead pistil cant do its job
of bringing sperm to egg
 
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