At the end of my rope; pH and nutrient issues.

Chunky Stool said:
Yeah man, honestly it sounds like a root problem. I've got a Durban poison that's recovering from a mite infestation & will post pics shortly. I'm going to pop I out of the bucket & have a peek at her roots.
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What kind of root issues could it be? I don't think it is root rot and I am almost certain with the amount of gnats present, they are doing zero damage. I seriously only see like 3 gnats. Can this happen to a root bound plant?
 
CalMg? maybe. That's what happens to me when I used RO water. Also if you don't allow your pots to dry out well and then continue to water them they get start yellowing, tips get burnt, and etc..I think it looks like you may be overwatering, drowning your roots and causing multiple deficiencies. this happens to me sometimes when repot, if you don't let them dry out they will lock up on u.
Everytime I have had spots, and they usually start yellow end up reddish and then die. CalMg fixed it, Iron is usually in there too (the CalMg). {
Good luck man
 
AZPsyclops said:
A good way to tell if you need to water in soil: top two inches are dry, pick up the bucket and feel the weight.
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I have been in flower for less than 24 hours. Yes I am in soil. All of this information is in my initial post, which I doubt anyone read on account of all the questions I have been getting that I answered in the first post. And the "Top 2 inch" method is exactly what I use.

green217 said:
CalMg? maybe. That's what happens to me when I used RO water. Also if you don't allow your pots to dry out well and then continue to water them they get start yellowing, tips get burnt, and etc..I think it looks like you may be overwatering, drowning your roots and causing multiple deficiencies. this happens to me sometimes when repot, if you don't let them dry out they will lock up on u.
Everytime I have had spots, and they usually start yellow end up reddish and then die. CalMg fixed it, Iron is usually in there too (the CalMg). {
Good luck man
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It could be CalMag, but I watered with epsom salts for magnesium and it didn't seem to correct anything, thus leading me to believe there is a lockout. Personally I don't think I am overwatering. I wait for the top few inches to dry before water EVERY time.
 
Until you spend the money and buy a good pH/ppm meter, you'll probably never know the real issue going on.

At this point, your pH is so out of whack, you'll never recover.
 
GR0WL0 said:
I have been in flower for less than 24 hours. Yes I am in soil. All of this information is in my initial post, which I doubt anyone read on account of all the questions I have been getting that I answered in the first post. And the "Top 2 inch" method is exactly what I use.



It could be CalMag, but I watered with epsom salts for magnesium and it didn't seem to correct anything, thus leading me to believe there is a lockout. Personally I don't think I am overwatering. I wait for the top few inches to dry before water EVERY time.
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I have never ran a SCROG, i imagine that lifting the pots is a major pain in the ass, but it is the BEST way to determine if it needs to watered is to lift the whole plant up by the pot. They get incredibibly light when they need watering, I'm just saying some times the top gets dry but inside is still wet. Good if it's not over watering I'd pick up a little CalMg supplement and try it. It stopped the spots in there tracks for me, but the places that have begun to spot will not recover. If u are sure u r not overwatering try some CalMg make sure you water is PHed to 5.5-6.5. I am running a couple bags of Roots Organic myself this run, they do come with fungus gnats free of charge.
 
SSHZ said:
Until you spend the money and buy a good pH/ppm meter, you'll probably never know the real issue going on.

At this point, your pH is so out of whack, you'll never recover.
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1. That is basically what I concluded before I even posted but wanted to see if the community had any helpful thoughts.
2. I reject your statement and believe in myself yo.
 
green217 said:
I have never ran a SCROG, i imagine that lifting the pots is a major pain in the ass, but it is the BEST way to determine if it needs to watered is to lift the whole plant up by the pot. They get incredibibly light when they need watering, I'm just saying some times the top gets dry but inside is still wet. Good if it's not over watering I'd pick up a little CalMg supplement and try it. It stopped the spots in there tracks for me, but the places that have begun to spot will not recover. If u are sure u r not overwatering try some CalMg make sure you water is PHed to 5.5-6.5. I am running a couple bags of Roots Organic myself this run, they do come with fungus gnats free of charge.
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Yes, the ScrOG essentially makes it impossible especially once buds form. I only took the net off last night when flipping to flower because I had to work in the tent a bit. It was hard enough in veg, could not manage it in flower. I will probably try CalMag after a bit more observation to see if anything I have done has changed anything.
 
It's not a knock buddy..........once your soil get's "sour", it's quite difficult to correct the multiple issues you appear to have going on.

My first suggestion is maybe check the run-off water, and test the pH and ppm. That will at least give you a starting point.

Oh, and throw throw pH strips in the trash. They are almost useless in proper marijuana growing.
 
GR0WL0 said:
Yes, the ScrOG essentially makes it impossible especially once buds form. I only took the net off last night when flipping to flower because I had to work in the tent a bit. It was hard enough in veg, could not manage it in flower. I will probably try CalMag after a bit more observation to see if anything I have done has changed anything.
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Grab a liquid PH kit for cheap. I've went through countless cheap amazon ph meters. they always fuck up or break. IMO in a small room/tent liquid ph testing kit is essential. My tap comes out 8 so I've got to drop mine. A lot of the better nutes come with PH buffers that sets the PH around 6.5. It does appear you could have more than one thing going on. PH lock out in soil is a bitch, I had to throw one out a few grows ago because of it. I believe the root ball never got dry enough before I watered my plant, thats why i always emphasize letting pots dry out before watering. They should be taking off for the next few weeks, unfortunately if you don't figure this out quick it's going to hurt you yield wise. I would switch them back to veg until i got them healthy, and then go to 12/12. The plant is not happy right now, get it happy then flower it.
 
My young clones in Solo cups exhibited similar issues.....leaf looking grey, dark discoloration. I transplanted them into 2&1/2 gallon buckets and the septoria stopped. They were root-bound....
 
Looks to me like its just not getting enough food. A plant that size is eating everything it can get its hands on. If youre watering to run off id start feeding pretty heavy every couple waterings and id bet it comes around. I also add calmag every watering and i never have that happen to me. It would be a tragedy to see such a nice plant go all yellow in early flower which i think will happen if you dont start feeding the hell outta it. It looks pale hammer it.
 
green217 said:
Grab a liquid PH kit for cheap. I've went through countless cheap amazon ph meters. they always fuck up or break. IMO in a small room/tent liquid ph testing kit is essential. My tap comes out 8 so I've got to drop mine. A lot of the better nutes come with PH buffers that sets the PH around 6.5. It does appear you could have more than one thing going on. PH lock out in soil is a bitch, I had to throw one out a few grows ago because of it. I believe the root ball never got dry enough before I watered my plant, thats why i always emphasize letting pots dry out before watering. They should be taking off for the next few weeks, unfortunately if you don't figure this out quick it's going to hurt you yield wise. I would switch them back to veg until i got them healthy, and then go to 12/12. The plant is not happy right now, get it happy then flower it.
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First off, thanks a lot for the input. I was seriously in need of help and all the people that have commented have been great. I have a liquid pH kit; it just doesn't test the full 0 to 14 pH range, only 6.8 to 8.2 which isn't too helpful with my situation if it is indeed pH lockout. I will be trying to pick up either a kit or a meter that can test the full pH range ASAP, whatever is available quicker. Also, is it okay to switch back to veg right now? I only flipped because I felt I had to so that I wouldn't out grow my ScrOG screen, which can render the training process and screen useless. However, I am definitely willing to switch back to veg if it means saving the plant. If that requires throwing the ScrOG plan out the window, so be it; I was concerned about the plant structure for a ScrOG regardless. I am just wondering if the flip back to veg will add even more stress to the plant. If I put it back in veg at noon tomorrow it will have been in flower for 36 hours.
 
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Krippled said:
My young clones in Solo cups exhibited similar issues.....leaf looking grey, dark discoloration. I transplanted them into 2&1/2 gallon buckets and the septoria stopped. They were root-bound....
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I was considering this option,I just don't really have room to keep upsizing. It's already in a 15 gallon pot I think...but I will continue to explore all avenues to solving this issue, including this one.

Alienwidow said:
Looks to me like its just not getting enough food. A plant that size is eating everything it can get its hands on. If youre watering to run off id start feeding pretty heavy every couple waterings and id bet it comes around. I also add calmag every watering and i never have that happen to me. It would be a tragedy to see such a nice plant go all yellow in early flower which i think will happen if you dont start feeding the hell outta it. It looks pale hammer it.
Click to expand...

I guess I hadn't really considered I wasn't feeding them enough, it is a valid theory. I just think that if it was a nutrient availability issue, the plant would have shown signs long ago. This coupled with the fact that I haven't lessened the amount of nutrient it has been getting leads me to assume it could be an issue with a low soil pH locking out some nutrients from the plant.
 
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