*** Ask Dr. VonDankenstine ***

doc V. ....??
I HAVE A WEEK LEFT ON MY DUTCH BLUEBERRY AND MY TEMPS ARE FREEZING AT NIGHT WITH OUT MY SPACE HEATER.. MY QUESTION IS SHOULD I FREEZE MY PLANTS THIS LAST WEEK AT NIGHT.. AND WHAT IS A RECOMMENDED NIGHT TEMP IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE THE PURPLE BLUE HUES... ALSO IF I MAKE A 55 GALLON BARREL OF NUTRIENT WATER HOW LONG CAN IT BE STORED AIR TIGHT BEFORE THE SHIT GOT BAD??? THANKS IN ADVANCE

doniawon said:

doc V. ....??
I HAVE A WEEK LEFT ON MY DUTCH BLUEBERRY AND MY TEMPS ARE FREEZING AT NIGHT WITH OUT MY SPACE HEATER.. MY QUESTION IS SHOULD I FREEZE MY PLANTS THIS LAST WEEK AT NIGHT.. AND WHAT IS A RECOMMENDED NIGHT TEMP IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE THE PURPLE BLUE HUES... ALSO IF I MAKE A 55 GALLON BARREL OF NUTRIENT WATER HOW LONG CAN IT BE STORED AIR TIGHT BEFORE THE SHIT GOT BAD??? THANKS IN ADVANCE

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DO NOT LET THEM FREEZE!!!---I would not let the plants get colder than 55 deg and the optimum night temp would be 65 to 68.
If your nutrients are chemical they should be good for a week(add 35%- h202 in there-about 325ml)---If they are organic they will not last more than a couple of days(put a bubbler in there)

and i can fly higher than an eagle......

Hey doc is their a good or better gas mix to cure bud? Like high O2 or just about any other thing. I was thinking air is N2 O2 CO2. I know for apples they use apple gas nasty shit. For grapes SO2 also nasty shit. Whit some burn victims they use a blood gas mix that is O2 with a % of HE. the He mixes with the O2 makeing it easy for the lungs to absorbe. or a dive mix also with He. lol sorry got kindaof point.

DR. VonDankenstine said:

Please post any questions or comments you may have about your grow and if I don't have the answer-I will point you in the right direction. I am here to share ideas and help anyone out that needs it.

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hey DOCTA!
help me out. whats going on with this lady? i think it may be nute block.... 3 and a half week from seedling, under a 400hps, and LED.

the other plants have the yellow edges, but no other signs, like this on plant has. this plant has the only problems. any help would be great thanks.

doniawon said:

and i can fly higher than an eagle......

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give me some of what you're smoking!!!

stumps said:

Hey doc is their a good or better gas mix to cure bud? Like high O2 or just about any other thing. I was thinking air is N2 O2 CO2. I know for apples they use apple gas nasty shit. For grapes SO2 also nasty shit. Whit some burn victims they use a blood gas mix that is O2 with a % of HE. the He mixes with the O2 makeing it easy for the lungs to absorbe. or a dive mix also with He. lol sorry got kindaof point.

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You want 78 deg @40%humidity---You need at least 5 to 7 days of slow cure for the conversion of chlorophyll(green hay taste)---If you could find a special gas mix that would speed up the conversion of chlorophyll without any loss or degradation of flavor/taste/strength/and appearance then you would be on to something--But at this point I have no information or have heard of anyone studying the process---Maybe you could do it!!!

ethylene is used for ripening allot of fruits. hear is a link if you want to take a look about 10 min of reading. this is on the use in tomatoes.

http://www.catalyticgenerators.com/whatisethylene.html

What are some simple tricks to increasing humidity without a humidifier?

I plan on using %100 Fox Farm Organic Ocean mix potting soil from germination to harvest. I believe earlier you said this soil has enough nutes for a month. After that period, what should I be giving my plants nute wise and how often? If you don't mind, I would like to know for both vegging and flowering please.

Last one. I plan on using a 600w switchable HPS/MH ballast. I have a couple fans oscillating, but without an inline fan am I at risk of anything?

Renzo said:

What are some simple tricks to increasing humidity without a humidifier?

I plan on using %100 Fox Farm Organic Ocean mix potting soil from germination to harvest. I believe earlier you said this soil has enough nutes for a month. After that period, what should I be giving my plants nute wise and how often? If you don't mind, I would like to know for both vegging and flowering please.

Last one. I plan on using a 600w switchable HPS/MH ballast. I have a couple fans oscillating, but without an inline fan am I at risk of anything?

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1.You will not need to increase humidity----2.FOX FARM NUTES---3.with every-other watering in veg, and 4. every watering in flowering. 5. risk of heat stress.

Alrighty Doc, Mr M
I've got Kali Mist and Colombian Red Haze growing in coco w/30% p'lite mixed in. Seperate plants (3 of each) under 400w MH for veg and now 400w HPS.
Feeding:
AN Monkey juice bloom a&b (grow a&b for veg)
Cal-Mag
Organic tea and organic micros
Distilled water
Mix it all up and ph to approx 5.6 to 5.8 (i have a digital hanna tester thats calibrated with the 7ph solution)
Everything was going fine and then I fed them "bushmaster" for a week. I did this to help control the height. I also transplanted and switched to flowering all around the same time. There were some cold nights even though I have a small heater in there.

Thats when the problem started. They are all growing fine and forming some nice buds BUT, the serrated edges of the fan leaves have a rust color to them. And its just the pointy triangle edges on both sides and thats it. Not spreading into the leaf. Otherwise they are pretty healty and forming up nicely.
Was it the cold? Was it the bushmaster? Transplant? or a combo of all? Is there something with coco that causes this?

I have not taken pics in a while, but I will soon. The prob is just the rust colored serrated edges of the fan leaves.

As always, THANKS

~Boneman

The edges are rust colored because of a nutrient burn... Bushmaster does it again.


Cut back the feeding and they'll be alright.

You might want to consider a flush if it's the entire plant. Especially if it continues to burn...

If it's just the tips you're alright.



In order to get the max results I think they need to get burned just a little, that way you know you're feeding as much as you can. Some might disagree...



A good way to tell ahead of time if you're going to experience a burn is 24 hours after watering, if the tips of the fans point down, and the rest of the leaves are standing, it's a burn.

mr Marks would you be kind enough to check my journal?? the tips of my babies are curling and they have so since two weeks but there is no yellowing!! there are pics in my journal!! can the curling occur without me having done anything wrong? also not all the leafs are curling and plant seems to be growing fine! thanks for the help!!

I'll take a look; my guess is it's a pH problem if they look wrinkled and curled... That or they're overwatered and the roots are suffocating...

this is starting at the bottom and working its way up i don't know if its a def. or not this happens the worst when 1 leaf is covering the spot where it is turning brown this is the first problem i've had with this plant. last 3 pics are the top of the plant which looks great this problem just keeps getting worse just did a flush 2 days ago and that didn't help that i see anyway i don't have my flowering nutes yet im waiting on ff tiger bloom 2-8-4 (UPS) all I've have now is 15-15-15 granular stuff but mostly I've been using MG 24-6-18

its been in flower for 3 weeks now and is 33" tall i only have 4, 23w 2700k cfls im thinking it could be lack of light but idk
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for 3 weeks of flower id say the lack of light is slowing the bud process..if its not a male your gonna have really stringy buds...the leaves look like ph spotting? or a mag def? if u have a meter test your ph runoff and your tap water and nute runoff...its easier to fix when u know these things...the doc will most likely ask the same stuff

Agreed with twistedidentites...

It may be a Mag deficiency, but doubtfull... It's probably the MG, too much nitrogen during flowering?

When it's from the bottom up it's usually a micronutrient problem, if it starts with new growth, that's when you need to panic... So chill out and wait on the Tiger Bloom to arrive.

DOC
I have another question for ya..!
I use 3 gallon buckets of rock on 4x4 flood tables, inch of rock in bottom of flood tables buckets full of rock.. generally i clone in 1" rockwcubes then go to 4" and then when they go to flower i bury them in rock and continue with a drip nft type set up..drip tubes to each buckt returns to a resi..
my question is can i eliminate some of the media i have listed what are some other ideas and can i just use 1" plugs to buckets and get the same result??

I'm no doctor... But I think I can help...



Yeah, you can go with the 1" plugs straight into buckets...

And all other media is more costly than "gravel" which I imagine you mean expanded clay pebbles... Like Hydroton.

Other possibilities are silica pellets, perlite, or rockwool cubes... To name a few.

But the hydroton is reusable, so, in the long run it is the cheapest.





I'll allow the next questions to remain unanswered so the Doc can have something to do next time he's around...

Hey Doc,
When do i start the final flush? When the tric's are 20-30% amber or before that. Cause i plan on doing this... Correct me if im wrong or anything.
I have (2) 5 gal pots so. ill use 5 gals of distilled and 5 more of (Pur) water. then let dry out for 7 days? and then water a gallon of distilled(and i also herd to use blackstrap molasses) wait another 2 days and on the last day(10) 24 hours of darkness.Cause i feed my plants every 3 days(normally) "so i figure they would be wanting more water" Then Chop! I manicure everything, let hang dry for 7 days then jar for 2 weeks opening everyday for the first week untill moisture and texture are like prefer correct? Am i missing something. I was going to dry hang for 3-5 days then paper bag it for a week, then jar. But i was told to just skip the paperbag stage.