Are these strips any good?

W

WhiteBud

Active Member
Skoal

Skoal

Well-Known Member
Gen 3 are great strips. I’ve been running the gen 2 strips for about a year. I love mine.
 
pulpoinspace

pulpoinspace

Well-Known Member
I would get 90 cri unless ur planning to supplement with additional reds. where are the eb3 strips in stock ive been looking everywhere for the 3500k 90cri 2 footers. ah i see those are 1 footers
 
pulpoinspace

pulpoinspace

Well-Known Member
3500k 90cri is the best stand alone spectrum for flowering IME. those strips would work awesome. just wiring up the 1 footers is a lot of work for a 4x4. but for a smaller space thats not as bad.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
pulpoinspace said:
I would get 90 cri unless ur planning to supplement with additional reds. where are the eb3 strips in stock ive been looking everywhere for the 3500k 90cri 2 footers. ah i see those are 1 footers
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pulpoinspace said:
3500k 90cri is the best stand alone spectrum for flowering IME. those strips would work awesome. just wiring up the 1 footers is a lot of work for a 4x4. but for a smaller space thats not as bad.
Click to expand...
3500k / 2700k 90cri: it depends on what control you think you will have over environment: if you have total control and can make your plant transpire gow low k: more yield andd faster. If you want a more relaxed grow experience gow 3500k for a full cycle/nice flower thing. Another version is also 2700k 90cri with blues/uv added on separate driver; to help in veg and when transpiration is lacking.
 
2five.oh

2five.oh

Member
I would say the 3500 and 4000 are the best. Originally when I looked into these I was thinking 2700 or 3000 but when you look at the spectrum graph your sacrificing almost no red with the 4000 and getting much greater board spread plus heavy blue which will help control stretching and potentially increase tricome production.
If it was my dollar I’d do the 4000k
B3B1FFD0-D06E-4152-B054-0358CC28437B.png
edit/ spelling
 
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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
2five.oh said:
I would say the 3500 and 4000 are the best. Originally when I looked into these I was thinking 2700 or 3000 but when you look at the spectrum graph your sacrificing almost no red with the 4000 and getting much greater board spread plus heavy blue which will help control stretching and potentially increase tricome production.
If it was my dollar I’d do the 4000k
View attachment 4585226
edit/ spelling
Click to expand...
Extra blue tends to diminish yield but makes the growing a bit easier. Its a bit of a trade off. 3700k 90cri worked out very similar to 3000k 80cri in terms of yield when we tried it. 2700k 90cri beat 3000k and 2700k 80cri in flower development, bud bagappeal and slightly in yield.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
2five.oh said:
I would say the 3500 and 4000 are the best. Originally when I looked into these I was thinking 2700 or 3000 but when you look at the spectrum graph your sacrificing almost no red with the 4000
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Sorry, but that is because you are comparing these charts incorrectly.

These charts are relative to the wavelength with the highest intensity. This peak is set at 100% for each spectrum.

If you draw a chart so that they all show the amount of actual irradiance per wavelenght then the 3500K and 4000K will have a (much) lower red peak than the 3000K and 2700K.

Those charts would show the same surface area underneath the line. So all that extra green and blue in the 3500K and 4000K will be deducted from the reds.

:edit: Here a chart for umol/s per wavelenght. Corrected for the actual output of that led at a certain current:
CXB3590 3000K 80CRI vs 90CRI.jpg

So now the peak isn't the same 100% for each led, but it really shows the actual amount of umol/s.Then you see the 3000K 80 CRI puts out a lot more red, but also a lot less of the longer wavelenght reds.

It's just an example I found on my drive. To be honest it doesn;t make much sense since the 90 CRI is of a higher bin than the 80 CRI, but still, the point is that not all charts should peak out at 100% if you actually want to compare between the SPD's.

:edit2: found another example with some 3500K and 4000K models included
Spectrumvergelijk-1750K+2200K+PRB+3500K80+3500K90+4000K90.png
 
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2five.oh

2five.oh

Member
@wietefras your charts are of cxb cobs and then Citizen in the lower. Those are different products. I pulled the graph from the spec sheet of the strip we are discussing. You can clearly see the same amount of reds from 27-40k. There is no drop in reds until you hit >5000k where there is a massive drop.
 
2five.oh

2five.oh

Member
Maybe I’m getting tripped up here. I’ll come read your post again when I’m a little more focused.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
2five.oh said:
@wietefras your charts are of cxb cobs and then Citizen in the lower. Those are different products.
Click to expand...
The SPD's are really not that different. But yeah, like I said it's more to show the principle. That's how a chart where you can compare SPD's should look like.

I pulled the graph from the spec sheet of the strip we are discussing. You can clearly see the same amount of reds from 27-40k. There is no drop in reds until you hit >5000k where there is a massive drop.
Click to expand...
Again, that's because of how the chart is created. It maxes them all out on the highest peak wavelenght and sets that to 100%. So anything with the highest peak in red will look like the same amount of reds. Anything with a peak in blue will show the same amount of blue and almost no reds.

You could digitze the charts of the SPD's you want to compare. I used Engauge Digitizer myself. Then pull the results into Excel and normalize them to have the same surface under the chart. That way you can compare them. Or use the umol/s output of the led and use that to normalize the charts to their actual efficiency. That's even better if you want to take into account the efficacy.
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
You know what, I digitized the charts for you and normalized all charts to the same volume. (Sorry couldn't be bothered to also account for efficacy)

Bridgelux® EB Series™ Gen 3 90 CRI_Normalized.png

This chart assumes all leds emit the same number of photons and the vertical axis is then the number of photons per wavelenght.

Now you clearly see the blue go up with higher Kelvin color temperature and the red go down with higher Kelvin
 
W

WhiteBud

Active Member
By the way I see that the strips have power connector in both ends. Will it be possible to cut in half the BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3 model and work fine?
 
M

Mrgoodsusa

Member
Rocket Soul said:
3500k / 2700k 90cri: it depends on what control you think you will have over environment: if you have total control and can make your plant transpire gow low k: more yield andd faster. If you want a more relaxed grow experience gow 3500k for a full cycle/nice flower thing. Another version is also 2700k 90cri with blues/uv added on separate driver; to help in veg and when transpiration is lacking.
Click to expand...
Rocket Soul said:
3500k / 2700k 90cri: it depends on what control you think you will have over environment: if you have total control and can make your plant transpire gow low k: more yield andd faster. If you want a more relaxed grow experience gow 3500k for a full cycle/nice flower thing. Another version is also 2700k 90cri with blues/uv added on separate driver; to help in veg and when transpiration is lacking.
Click to expand...
So can i run a 4x4 with only 2700k with the added blue and/uv for full cycle? It seems like the more stuff i learn here the harder it js for me to just hit the order button
 
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