Are these 2.5 weeks seedling healthy ??

Hello growers,

take a look please and tell me your comment and advises, I am a newbie this is my second grow after i lost my first seedling due to overwatering
details:

* Age: 2.5 Weeks since spouted out of soil.
* medium: 70% "German peat moss" pre-load potting soil + 30% perlite.
* Strain: Have no idea but it came from a strong shit, i think middle east Indica.
* Light: 400 HPS, 18/6.
* Air circulation: excellent.
* Watering: I have a have a hydrometer, I water only when its just a little moisture.
* Fertilizing: Not yet.
* PH: 6-7

I am a little bit worried from the color of the new leafs, is that normal?

thanks a lot

Need to transplant and give a lil nutes. Notice I said a lil. nutes.
A tip for watering, fill same size pot that your plant is in with dry soil. Pick up see how much it weighs..
Then when your potted pla.ts feel close to the same is when you water. The moisture meter only tells you the upper moisture level, not what's down at root zone.

Hey buddy, I'm a newbie too! Anyway off the top of my head I suspect it's heat stress.

Any idea how the temps are in your room?

Orrrr... like the guy above said, my second thought would be to give a little bit of nutes, although it seems a bit early.

Btw, I'm new to this as well so don't take my advice without checking around first.

Good luck!

Thanks a lot guyz, shall i transplant? like roots are not yet seen at the bottom of the soil.

And for the watering sounds great man i will do what you just say good idea

I would def transplant. If you can, just go up to like a 2 or 3 gal pot next. If you make too big of a jump when transplanting, it causes a big slow down in above soil growth.

Transplant it and bury that long ass neck bring the dirt up just below your leaves.

thanks a lot guyz will do that

Transplant now into a bigger pot. Plant needs Nitrogen. From my eye, this looks like Nute lock-up.

cmon guys deficiencies start at the bottom.

did you get your hps too close? back it off to 1.5 feet or more (16-18" ++)
check that bag of peat moss mix and see what they use to buffer your soil, it may be dolomite lime or powdered oyster shell, peat can be too acidic, and lockout things causing burn

Nizza said:

cmon guys deficiencies start at the bottom.

did you get your hps too close? back it off to 1.5 feet or more (16-18" ++)
check that bag of peat moss mix and see what they use to buffer your soil, it may be dolomite lime or powdered oyster shell, peat can be too acidic, and lockout things causing burn

Click to expand...

soil ph is around 7, i think i need to take it down a little right ?? do you see it as a normal size or shall it bigger ?? thanks man

Nizza said:

cmon guys deficiencies start at the bottom.

did you get your hps too close? back it off to 1.5 feet or more (16-18" ++)
check that bag of peat moss mix and see what they use to buffer your soil, it may be dolomite lime or powdered oyster shell, peat can be too acidic, and lockout things causing burn

Click to expand...

Are you fucking serious?

Deficiencies do not always start at the bottom of the plant. Zinc/Boron & Calcium deficiencies start on new growth. This plant has a clear deficiency issue and is probably rootbound.

http://www.growery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/357108
Check out the Nitrogen deficiency there first. If your using straight peat moss there is a good chance your pH is on the low side as well (anything under 5.5 and N starts getting locked out). Have you honestly checked the soil pH? What brand did you say you're using for soil? You baby girl needs Nitrogen and it could either be because of a pH induced lockout or because she has simply exhausted any available N in her container. Transplant her into a larger container with some properly prepared soil. Ph between 6.3-6.8 ideally. Give her about 48 hours after transplant to see if her condition has improved then check back here. It is wise that you are concerned with her root growth, a tip for the new pot is to start watering around the edges of the container and just mist the soil at the base of the main stem. This will encourage the roots to grow outwards towards the moisture and fill up the soil medium much more efficiently. You should really consider buying some good, quality soil. For someone just starting out it can be overwhelming trying to figure out what is wrong with your baby especially if she is growing in low grade soil. With good soil there tends to be a lot less problems and problems that do arise are more easily identified. Ie: Is my LowG soil sterile? Does it even have enough nutes? Will it drain properly? When you have more practice under your belt you'll be able to transform any soil - with the proper amendments of course - into a great soil.
Good luck man.

Nizza said:

cmon guys deficiencies start at the bottom.

did you get your hps too close? back it off to 1.5 feet or more (16-18" ++)
check that bag of peat moss mix and see what they use to buffer your soil, it may be dolomite lime or powdered oyster shell, peat can be too acidic, and lockout things causing burn

Click to expand...

nitrogen deficiency starts on older leaves first...
reference: https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/216537-self-diagnose-your-plants.html

looks like PH need to be checked, and 1/4 - 1/2 strength for nutes, make sure you let your soil dry out. wishing you best of luck

OzGrower87 said:

Are you fucking serious?

Deficiencies do not always start at the bottom of the plant. Zinc/Boron & Calcium deficiencies start on new growth. This plant has a clear deficiency issue and is probably rootbound.

Click to expand...

Agree not ALL deficiencies start at the bottom.
example: calcium is more likely to show on younger leaves first, generally.

cool good advises thanks a lot, just bought a new potting soil "peat moss+clay+composite+perlite" i will transplant to a bigger pot, i wont add any fertilizers as the potting soil contains all the needed nuts.

thanks again

OzGrower87 said:

Are you fucking serious?

Deficiencies do not always start at the bottom of the plant. Zinc/Boron & Calcium deficiencies start on new growth. This plant has a clear deficiency issue and is probably rootbound.

Click to expand...

I am going to agree with the rootbound diagnosis, here are some pics of my seedlings at 14 days taken Wednesday. They were transplanted when the second set of true leaves started to show ( indicating to me that the roots were established enough to do so but were not yet constricted by the small cup) and will be topped and transplanted again this weekend. Rootbound plants tend to not produce the vigorous new growth which most readily uptakes available minerals and supplemental nutrients.

Nizza said:

cmon guys deficiencies start at the bottom

Click to expand...

Wrong! Go to the rear of the class.

Mobile nutrient deficiencies first show up on older leaves. Immobile nutrient deficiencies show up on new tissue.

How close is your light to the top of your plants?
It should be at least 18 inches away.
it looks like your cooking them.

jordanfirst said:

Hello growers,

take a look please and tell me your comment and advises, I am a newbie this is my second grow after i lost my first seedling due to overwatering
details:

* Age: 2.5 Weeks since spouted out of soil.
* medium: 70% "German peat moss" pre-load potting soil + 30% perlite.
* Strain: Have no idea but it came from a strong shit, i think middle east Indica.
* Light: 400 HPS, 18/6.
* Air circulation: excellent.
* Watering: I have a have a hydrometer, I water only when its just a little moisture.
* Fertilizing: Not yet.
* PH: 6-7

I am a little bit worried from the color of the new leafs, is that normal?

thanks a lot


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Sorry,My bad I didn't see these updated pics.
They look much better,nice recovery dude.
Keep up the good work and as always,someone here helped you out and now your plants aree looking good.

CaretakerDad said:

I am going to agree with the rootbound diagnosis, here are some pics of my seedlings at 14 days taken Wednesday. They were transplanted when the second set of true leaves started to show ( indicating to me that the roots were established enough to do so but were not yet constricted by the small cup) and will be topped and transplanted again this weekend. Rootbound plants tend to not produce the vigorous new growth which most readily uptakes available minerals and supplemental nutrients.

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