Are my plants going to die??????
- Thread starter oojuanky
- Start date
itsgrowinglikeaweed
Well-Known Member
I looked at all your pics. They seem a little better now than they did 2weeks ago. It also looks like theres at least 2 different strains there? Anyway, ive really been investigating you situation hardcore. (it helps me learn stuff in the process too )
This is the conclusion I have come to-
Your problems started because the Ph got out of range. Too high or too low, I'm not quite sure. This caused your plant to stop taking up nutrients (lockout). So when you watered your plant with the FF fertilizers it could not use them. After a few waterings the unused ferts started to build up in the soil. At some point your Ph came back into proper range (it was probably high and adding the fertilizer brought it back down after a little while). Adding fertilizer adds acidity to the soil over time. Now with the Ph in range, and a buildup of unused fertilizer in the soil, your plant got nutrient burn. Thats why the flush helped (a little) and they look a bit better now. So...it was Mrs Scarlet, in the study, with the lead pipe. I think....
Now then...if you think you have a handle on the Ph (you know the Ph of the water going in AND the Ph of the runoff) and it is in proper range (6.3 - 6.
I think you need to be patient and see if they continue to recover. The bad leaves will NOT recover. Let the new growth will be the indicator of health. Some of your tops are green and look ok. They are even erect, reaching up for the light thats good. It might want the light a little closer even. The one that is drooped over and curled down likely has water stress issues (too much or too little). I'm hesitant to tell what to do next because I'm not sure if they are getting better, just holding steady, or still suffering?
Am I making any sense here?? What do you think about that?
This is the conclusion I have come to-
Your problems started because the Ph got out of range. Too high or too low, I'm not quite sure. This caused your plant to stop taking up nutrients (lockout). So when you watered your plant with the FF fertilizers it could not use them. After a few waterings the unused ferts started to build up in the soil. At some point your Ph came back into proper range (it was probably high and adding the fertilizer brought it back down after a little while). Adding fertilizer adds acidity to the soil over time. Now with the Ph in range, and a buildup of unused fertilizer in the soil, your plant got nutrient burn. Thats why the flush helped (a little) and they look a bit better now. So...it was Mrs Scarlet, in the study, with the lead pipe. I think....
Now then...if you think you have a handle on the Ph (you know the Ph of the water going in AND the Ph of the runoff) and it is in proper range (6.3 - 6.
I think you need to be patient and see if they continue to recover. The bad leaves will NOT recover. Let the new growth will be the indicator of health. Some of your tops are green and look ok. They are even erect, reaching up for the light thats good. It might want the light a little closer even. The one that is drooped over and curled down likely has water stress issues (too much or too little). I'm hesitant to tell what to do next because I'm not sure if they are getting better, just holding steady, or still suffering? Am I making any sense here?? What do you think about that?
itsgrowinglikeaweed
Well-Known Member
Well the purple stems could be normal. Some strains are like that. Low temps can cause that too. Its really the least of your worries. It could be a phosphorus def, but epsom and/or molasses is not the answer to that. Epsom is a source of magnesium and calcium not phosphorus. The fox farms shoiuld have plenty of phosphorus if your Ph is good so that your plant can use it.
If you want to use the molasses you should know exactly why and how first.
I found this in the organics forum by Ohsogreen >
"First use only unsulphured molasses, like Briar Rabbit or Grandma's Molasses (brands). Mix one ounce ( 1 TBLS) to one gallon of chlorine free water. If you only have tap water, let it set for two days & 99% of the chlorine will evaporate. Then you can add the molasses.
.
You should bubble (oxygenate) it using a cheap aquarium pump & air stone for at least one day. Or just pour it from one clean container (jug or bucket) to another a couple of times a day, for at least two days.
.
This provides extra oxygen to the good micro-beaties, they then eat, mutiply, & kill off - the not so nice micro-beaties. The longer you oygenate this mix, the more good guys you end up with. Their eating & pooping out the NPK (bioconversion) is what make it highly soluble. Over time their bioconversion reduces the N and pumps up the P & K slightly. Not a big shift, just a point or two.
.
This makes a good growth stage fertilizer (that's cheap).
.
Just mix it light the first time & water in lightly - like one quart per plant.
Start low & build slow. This prevents overfertilizing.
.
Use this mix one week & plain water the next.
.
You can add nutes to the mix, but remember your adding to a mix with a NPK of about 5-1-3 already"
Growing MJ requires a LOT a patients. Keep in mind that it could take several days to see the results of somthing you do to try to affect the health of your plants. Inexperienced growers ALWAYS try to do too much. lemme know how they're doing later in the week. Are the tops still green? Are they pushing out hairs? Hang it there man!
If you want to use the molasses you should know exactly why and how first.
I found this in the organics forum by Ohsogreen >
"First use only unsulphured molasses, like Briar Rabbit or Grandma's Molasses (brands). Mix one ounce ( 1 TBLS) to one gallon of chlorine free water. If you only have tap water, let it set for two days & 99% of the chlorine will evaporate. Then you can add the molasses.
.
You should bubble (oxygenate) it using a cheap aquarium pump & air stone for at least one day. Or just pour it from one clean container (jug or bucket) to another a couple of times a day, for at least two days.
.
This provides extra oxygen to the good micro-beaties, they then eat, mutiply, & kill off - the not so nice micro-beaties. The longer you oygenate this mix, the more good guys you end up with. Their eating & pooping out the NPK (bioconversion) is what make it highly soluble. Over time their bioconversion reduces the N and pumps up the P & K slightly. Not a big shift, just a point or two.
.
This makes a good growth stage fertilizer (that's cheap).
.
Just mix it light the first time & water in lightly - like one quart per plant.
Start low & build slow. This prevents overfertilizing.
.
Use this mix one week & plain water the next.
.
You can add nutes to the mix, but remember your adding to a mix with a NPK of about 5-1-3 already"
Growing MJ requires a LOT a patients. Keep in mind that it could take several days to see the results of somthing you do to try to affect the health of your plants. Inexperienced growers ALWAYS try to do too much. lemme know how they're doing later in the week. Are the tops still green? Are they pushing out hairs? Hang it there man!
itsgrowinglikeaweed
Well-Known Member
Not too bad. Lay off the nutes now, just give her water for 2 weeks and you are there.
Way to grow!
Way to grow!