Anyone know what might be going on here

HONEYCOMBHILLZ

HONEYCOMBHILLZ

Active Member
Having some leaf issues with my ladies and not to sure what it could be..newbie here....anyone have any ideas on what i can do to fix it.
4 mendo breath
Fox Farms Happy frog soil
3 gallon pots
Elite nutrients line
2 -600 watt LEDs
Water every other day
Lights just switched to 12/12 last week
Mammoth P
Foliar essence
 

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hibok

Well-Known Member
Are your doing a foliage spray? My guess would be water pellets/droplets are left behind/not evaporated before lights turn on and is creating a magnifying glass which is burning the leaves
 
HONEYCOMBHILLZ

HONEYCOMBHILLZ

Active Member
hibok said:
Are your doing a foliage spray? My guess would be water pellets/droplets are left behind/not evaporated before lights turn on and is creating a magnifying glass which is burning the leaves
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Yeah I am doing a foliar feed ao that may be the issue even though i have multiple fans in my grow tent and I always feed right when the lights go off,so they had 6 hours to dry off
 
Indacouch

Indacouch

Well-Known Member
hibok said:
Are your doing a foliage spray? My guess would be water pellets/droplets are left behind/not evaporated before lights turn on and is creating a magnifying glass which is burning the leaves
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HONEYCOMBHILLZ said:
Yeah I am doing a foliar feed ao that may be the issue even though i have multiple fans in my grow tent and I always feed right when the lights go off,so they had 6 hours to dry off
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Also looks like you could back off on the fan speed a bit and be sure to let them dry out good between waterings. Don't just water every other day. Let them ask for water and go from there.

I say this because the slightly lazy looking leafs and the twist/deformation. I grow in green houses. I sometimes forget to redirect fan speed/strength when rotating plants. They can handle quite a bit of wind, but to much on young plants can cause leafs to get messed up.

GL
 
HONEYCOMBHILLZ

HONEYCOMBHILLZ

Active Member
Indacouch said:
Also looks like you could back off on the fan speed a bit and be sure to let them dry out good between waterings. Don't just water every other day. Let them ask for water and go from there.

I say this because the slightly lazy looking leafs and the twist/deformation. I grow in green houses. I sometimes forget to redirect fan speed/strength when rotating plants. They can handle quite a bit of wind, but to much on young plants can cause leafs to get messed up.

GL
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Thanks for the input man
Id have to check but I think the fans are on low,just trying to get enough air flow around the bottom of the plants. Still new at this and sometimes overthink things..lol
 
Indacouch

Indacouch

Well-Known Member
HONEYCOMBHILLZ said:
Thanks for the input man
Id have to check but I think the fans are on low,just trying to get enough air flow around the bottom of the plants. Still new at this and sometimes overthink things..lol
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Yeah it's the biggest mistake I see with new growers. Just remember that simplicity is your friend. We've all over complicated things at some point growing. After 20 years of growing I've realized simple gives the best results. Basically watering habits are the biggest factor with new growers. I actually will wait for my plants to start showing signs of wilt to get my watering schedule down. Constantly wet soil slows down growth quite a lot for several reasons. I don't use any kind of foliage sprays whatsoever. Basically good watering habits and feeding correctly is all ya need. I top twice and LST my plants. Very simple yet very effective. If your fans are on low you should be good. I like to have my fan on oscillate in my houses....where it causes just enough indirect wind to move the leafs a bit......basically like a slow breeze. Just not directly blowing on one spot constantly.

Again GL

Remember to focus on your watering habits. I guarantee they could go quite a while longer than every other day. Just water them thoroughly and wait until the soil is super dry before you water again. Like I said above. I wait until I see them start to wilt to dial in my watering schedule. A wilted MJ plant will recover in 30 minutes. However an overwatered MJ plant can be stunted long term and have a host of other issues along with it. The worst cases being death. I guarantee if you get your watering habits dialed in you'll see a serious improvement in growth and over all health.




Example- let's say you water on Monday morning. Then you watch your plants closely and they show signs of wilting on Friday afternoon. Well now you know you need to water Friday morning. Obviously as the plants get larger and you transplant this schedule will change. However it will teach you what to watch for and even how the soil physically feels and looks like before it needs more water.

Again GL
 
Anon618

Anon618

Well-Known Member
Indacouch said:
Yeah it's the biggest mistake I see with new growers. Just remember that simplicity is your friend. We've all over complicated things at some point growing. After 20 years of growing I've realized simple gives the best results. Basically watering habits are the biggest factor with new growers. I actually will wait for my plants to start showing signs of wilt to get my watering schedule down. Constantly wet soil slows down growth quite a lot for several reasons. I don't use any kind of foliage sprays whatsoever. Basically good watering habits and feeding correctly is all ya need. I top twice and LST my plants. Very simple yet very effective. If your fans are on low you should be good. I like to have my fan on oscillate in my houses....where it causes just enough indirect wind to move the leafs a bit......basically like a slow breeze. Just not directly blowing on one spot constantly.

Again GL

Remember to focus on your watering habits. I guarantee they could go quite a while longer than every other day. Just water them thoroughly and wait until the soil is super dry before you water again. Like I said above. I wait until I see them start to wilt to dial in my watering schedule. A wilted MJ plant will recover in 30 minutes. However an overwatered MJ plant can be stunted long term and have a host of other issues along with it. The worst cases being death. I guarantee if you get your watering habits dialed in you'll see a serious improvement in growth and over all health.




Example- let's say you water on Monday morning. Then you watch your plants closely and they show signs of wilting on Friday afternoon. Well now you know you need to water Friday morning. Obviously as the plants get larger and you transplant this schedule will change. However it will teach you what to watch for and even how the soil physically feels and looks like before it needs more water.

Again GL
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Could you please expand on what LST techniques you use (besides topping/ FIM'ing) and how late can you apply LST. Can you apply during early flower.

thank you!
 
Indacouch

Indacouch

Well-Known Member
Anon618 said:
Could you please expand on what LST techniques you use (besides topping/ FIM'ing) and how late can you apply LST. Can you apply during early flower.

thank you!
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LST is low stress training ....so after I top I tie strings to my branches and start pulling them down..... I continue with LST during flower. By the time the buds are developing I have my plants structure exactly the way I want it. So yes, you can LST train during flower. Even topping once and then LST will yield far far better results. I use smart pots and just attach my strings to the top rim of the pot...... Then I tie branches down and even rotate them left and right if necessary. Basically I like to take my long branches during veg and pull them down horizontal with the ground. The branch will then turn and start heading upwards where the string is holding it down. So you can manipulate a plant into any shape you'd like with very little to no stress.
 
Anon618

Anon618

Well-Known Member
Indacouch said:
LST is low stress training ....so after I top I tie strings to my branches and start pulling them down..... I continue with LST during flower. By the time the buds are developing I have my plants structure exactly the way I want it. So yes, you can LST train during flower. Even topping once and then LST will yield far far better results. I use smart pots and just attach my strings to the top rim of the pot...... Then I tie branches down and even rotate them left and right if necessary. Basically I like to take my long branches during veg and pull them down horizontal with the ground. The branch will then turn and start heading upwards where the string is holding it down. So you can manipulate a plant into any shape you'd like with very little to no stress.
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first, thank you! 2nd, have you ever done any supercropping?
 
Indacouch

Indacouch

Well-Known Member
Anon618 said:
first, thank you! 2nd, have you ever done any supercropping?
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Yes, I've pretty much done everything there is to do tbh. I've been playing around for 20 years now. So I've done everything from Christmas trees to SOG ..... and everything between. In fact I still experiment every year ....I have a greenhouse that I use solely for trying new things ....this year I'm playing around with no till, new foods and a new training technique to keep myself off the ladder ....lol
 
Anon618

Anon618

Well-Known Member
Indacouch said:
Yes, I've pretty much done everything there is to do tbh. I've been playing around for 20 years now. So I've done everything from Christmas trees to SOG ..... and everything between. In fact I still experiment every year ....I have a greenhouse that I use solely for trying new things ....this year I'm playing around with no till, new foods and a new training technique to keep myself off the ladder ....lol
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If i have asked too much then ignore me, but i have 1 last question for you. When do you make the switch (while in flower) from heavy P to heavy K ? do you look for the plant to tell you via showing nutrient deficiency or the look of trichomes under magnification, or do you just switch by using a time element like weeks in flower.

Sorry for all the questions but since u have 20 years experience under your belt i thought i would ask.. thanks again for any help.
 
Indacouch

Indacouch

Well-Known Member
Anon618 said:
If i have asked too much then ignore me, but i have 1 last question for you. When do you make the switch (while in flower) from heavy P to heavy K ? do you look for the plant to tell you via showing nutrient deficiency or the look of trichomes under magnification, or do you just switch by using a time element like weeks in flower.

Sorry for all the questions but since u have 20 years experience under your belt i thought i would ask.. thanks again for any help.
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I don't count days of flower or keep track so to speak. As far as how I feed. I just visually watch what the plant is telling me. I never just cut one thing and start throwing another at it/them. I like to transition slowly between vegg and bloom. Some people start focusing on boosting flowering food far to early imo. I like to keep giving N at normal rates even after the plants are well into flower. Once the buds are well established and starting to stack up nice I'll start upping the bloom and backing off the N. I also use a product from FF called Big Bloom. It's actually the only full organic of the big three people use in the trio. I use that pretty much throughout the life cycle of the plant. Late in flowering I also like to scratch in a little bit of DTE's bat guano. Like I said before I keep it pretty simple. I just watch my girls and they tell me what and when they need/want something. I grow multiple strains at the same time. Some strains are heavy feeders and others would get tox if I fed them all the same. I know that probably doesn't answer your question very clearly.....but hopefully it gives some food for thought.

Don't get caught up in a schedule. Watch your plants and they will give you indicators on what they need.


I'm ignoring you now ..........lol jk
 
Anon618

Anon618

Well-Known Member
Thank you! I do have FF big bloom and do use it. Appreciate the information :)

Indacouch said:
I don't count days of flower or keep track so to speak. As far as how I feed. I just visually watch what the plant is telling me. I never just cut one thing and start throwing another at it/them. I like to transition slowly between vegg and bloom. Some people start focusing on boosting flowering food far to early imo. I like to keep giving N at normal rates even after the plants are well into flower. Once the buds are well established and starting to stack up nice I'll start upping the bloom and backing off the N. I also use a product from FF called Big Bloom. It's actually the only full organic of the big three people use in the trio. I use that pretty much throughout the life cycle of the plant. Late in flowering I also like to scratch in a little bit of DTE's bat guano. Like I said before I keep it pretty simple. I just watch my girls and they tell me what and when they need/want something. I grow multiple strains at the same time. Some strains are heavy feeders and others would get tox if I fed them all the same. I know that probably doesn't answer your question very clearly.....but hopefully it gives some food for thought.

Don't get caught up in a schedule. Watch your plants and they will give you indicators on what they need.


I'm ignoring you now ..........lol jk
Click to expand...
 
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