Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Like the title suggests, just wondering if there's any 1-2' strips that might be a lower than normal voltage of 10-16v? Any ideas?
Any Strips that are 10-16fV?
- Thread starter Airwalker16
- Start date
Short Samsung q series
https://s3.ap-northeast-2.amazonaws...ce/2017/11/Data_Sheet_Q_Series_US_Rev.1.3.pdf
https://s3.ap-northeast-2.amazonaws...ce/2017/11/Data_Sheet_Q_Series_US_Rev.1.3.pdf
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Led-tech.de has various lm301b pcbs with low voltage. Not very strong though. If you have space on your driver why not add monos for spectrum?
Isawthelight
Well-Known Member
Cutter has this XPGDWT-B1-0000-00K7E featuring four 3000k white cree xpg-3 on a linear pcb.
The board is 120mm ( less than 5 inches) long.
@welight may have more options
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
..as opposed to a log pcb? wtf is a linear pcb? 
Bridgelux gen 2, 1' strips are only ~$3, and you could short a few diodes to fall within your voltage range @Airwalker16
Bridgelux gen 2, 1' strips are only ~$3, and you could short a few diodes to fall within your voltage range @Airwalker16
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
How would I go about it..as opposed to a log pcb? wtf is a linear pcb?
Bridgelux gen 2, 1' strips are only ~$3, and you could short a few diodes to fall within your voltage range @Airwalker16
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
Knowing the forward voltage of a given strip we can then subtract your driver output voltage and this result we divide the forward voltage of the diode▲ is how many voltage drops we need to eliminate. By figuring each diode's voltage drop we can sum enough to reach this ▲ and simply shorting them with some conductor to later be removed if we wanted to use the strip as original, or you could unsolder/pry off the diode and jump it with solder or some other conductor.
Example; say our strip needs 20V nominal to conduct and our driver only outputs maximum 16V.
We need to eliminate 4V of drop worth of diodes.
Find the forward voltage of each diode by dividing # of diodes relative to strip Vf or see data sheet.
Divide the 4V by the Vf of each diode.
This gives you a number of diodes to be shorted. Pick ideal location of diodes to 'shut off' and add a jumper wire.
**warning, did this on the fly, might need some correcting
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
So if you were trying to fill an HLG-185-c1400 and had 3 CXBs on it and wanted to fill the driver up the last 36v without using a 4th cob, there's no way for me to use these strips, correct? Unless I used 6 cobs on 2 parallel strings of 3 in series and added 3 strips to each of those series getting to 700MA that would be a handlable current for them. Right?
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CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
HLG-185H-C1400 (same?)
Output voltage range 71V-143V in a constant current range of 700-1400mA 3x CXBs should run fine in series, and a pair of these series in parallel will split the current?
I don't follow 'tinfoil the driver up the last 36V without using a COB' ??
I think maybe you're asking if we can use some of this remaining available potential (143V - 108V (3x CXBs)) == 35V for some strips??
Two strings in parallel would be 700mA maximum through each branch with that driver. Using this current off 700mA max and ~35V available potential you can configure whatever series parallel arrangement to eat up the available headroom of the driver.
Output voltage range 71V-143V in a constant current range of 700-1400mA 3x CXBs should run fine in series, and a pair of these series in parallel will split the current?
I don't follow 'tinfoil the driver up the last 36V without using a COB' ??
I think maybe you're asking if we can use some of this remaining available potential (143V - 108V (3x CXBs)) == 35V for some strips??
Two strings in parallel would be 700mA maximum through each branch with that driver. Using this current off 700mA max and ~35V available potential you can configure whatever series parallel arrangement to eat up the available headroom of the driver.
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Bridgelux vesta strips fits your bill: 2 channels, each 25V, nominal amps : 0.5A per foot, max amp: 1A per foot (theres 1 and 2 foot versions with same voltage). Channels are 5000k/2700k both 90cri. Dont get fooled by low lum/watt, they are about 50% efficient, similar to bridgelux gen 1.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Tin foil = to fill.
Yes I'm just saying there's no way to use the remaining 35v with the 10v q series or Vesta strips though because the 1400mA would be too much. But for me to split the current to 700, I'd need to have 2 rows in parallel of 3 cxbs and 3 strips in series.
I wouldn't want to have the cobs go down to 700MA though. I'd only want 3. So I guess you'd have to find some kind of strip/diode where it's low forward voltage but a higher nominal current of 1400.
Yes I'm just saying there's no way to use the remaining 35v with the 10v q series or Vesta strips though because the 1400mA would be too much. But for me to split the current to 700, I'd need to have 2 rows in parallel of 3 cxbs and 3 strips in series.
I wouldn't want to have the cobs go down to 700MA though. I'd only want 3. So I guess you'd have to find some kind of strip/diode where it's low forward voltage but a higher nominal current of 1400.
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Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Thats the point, the vesta has 2 channels in one strip, you can divide the current and feed each channel 700mA. 2 foot strips you could put all the juice thru one channel. Also, 90 cri is nice.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
But to divide the current among each channel, I'd have to use 6 cxbs right? 2 parralel strands of 3 in series, adding the last pos/neg connections coming off the 3rd cob to one often channels and the other parallel strings end leads to the other channel?
But the 2ft strip could just be thrown in serial through both channels together after the 3 cobs?
JavaCo
Well-Known Member
Very important to make sure the two parallel strings have matching chips. If their forward voltage varies much you will get current hogging where one string might be running at 1000 mA and the other @ 400mA. Bridgelux has voltage bins now days to keep this from happening. So it is not as simple as running two series string in parallel and getting 700 mA per a side, they have to have matching forward voltages for the paralleled strings to be even.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Can you show me a drawing or something?
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
Have you observed this in practice? Is it possible that tolerances would be so loose that we'd see this kind of current loading from like parts on a parallel branch? I haven't witnessed this in practice and have done NO matching of emitters at all be it strips or COBs.
@Airwalker16 if you end up with two parallel branches, they don't need to make any additional electrical connection but at the DCV +/- inputs, they should make no connections between each other outside of the input voltages nodes.
shimbob
Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Ive tried doing paralell with these strips and its fine.
Aw16: not sure if i understand quite what you want, you got 3 cxbs in series on a hlg185-c1400 and you want to fill it out with something, right? Put one 3way wago on the end of the string, use one 2 foot vesta and pull 1 cable from the wago to each channel. Repeat on the otherside of the strip. If you prefer a more red spectrum, remove connection to 5000k and give all the power to the 2700 side. Vice versa for the other channel for more blue in vegg. It will fill out everything but the last 10V. And you get a veg and bloom setting with some 90 cri. Strips need heatsinking, especially when only using one channel. They are cheap, about 10 bux in digikey.
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