Any problems using HLG-240h-C1750 to run 4 CXB3590's @ 36v?

YES I said:
howard...thanks for posting this, i was thinking of the exact same cob/driver setup so curious to see how it's working for you, any updates?

i'm planning on running 4 36v cobs off the hlg-240-c2100a, still deciding between the 3590s and the 3070s,just a few questions if anyone could help:

from my noob understanding, running 4 cobs @ 2.1 or 1.7 would give the appropriate voltage and power to each cob to obtain most lum/w and still put enough juice out on the cobs, the c1050 and 1400 models that a lot of people used seems to be underutilizing the lights, unless im mistaken?

is there a rule for how many cobs you can run on these 2.1 or 1.7 drivers? i see most people running 4 in serial, could the same be done for 3, or theoretically 2 for discussion's sake?
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I agree! Some even use 700! I'm glad I'm going to use 1750 on my 8 3590's. My Pa is gonna be running 6 3070's on 2x2100's and I'm excited to see it! Kinda jealous but couldn't justify buying another cxb3590 AND another driver for the 2100mas as they can only run 3.
 
Airwalker16 said:
I agree! Some even use 700! I'm glad I'm going to use 1750 on my 8 3590's. My Pa is gonna be running 6 3070's on 2x2100's and I'm excited to see it! Kinda jealous but couldn't justify buying another cxb3590 AND another driver for the 2100mas as they can only run 3.
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thanks airwalker, why can they run only 3?, from the specs i thought 4 would be fine, although more power utilization from 3? and yeah, they're pricy, still on nthe fence whether to use cxb3070s instead for the price point... how many watts are you planning running a 1750 on 8 3590's?
 
YES I said:
howard...thanks for posting this, i was thinking of the exact same cob/driver setup so curious to see how it's working for you, any updates?

i'm planning on running 4 36v cobs off the hlg-240-c2100a, still deciding between the 3590s and the 3070s,just a few questions if anyone could help:

from my noob understanding, running 4 cobs @ 2.1 or 1.7 would give the appropriate voltage and power to each cob to obtain most lum/w and still put enough juice out on the cobs, the c1050 and 1400 models that a lot of people used seems to be underutilizing the lights, unless im mistaken?

is there a rule for how many cobs you can run on these 2.1 or 1.7 drivers? i see most people running 4 in serial, could the same be done for 3, or theoretically 2 for discussion's sake?
Click to expand...

I'm still building my c1750 unit, will update once its up and running, had to upgrade the fans on the c1400 unit as the case temps were getting way hot, so for the c1750 I guess I should future proof it and move even more air through it. It's quite surprising just how much heat is being generated by those little inch square COBS and MW drivers. Cant see any light degradation but I imagine the longevity has sufferred a bit - ah well the joy of prototyping - have been toying with the idea of moving the drivers to a separately heatsinked point outside the main area but not quite sure how (if) voltage drop effects over 3+ meters of cable and how best to make the connections. Probably should start another thread once I get my A into G.....
 
I got my first light bar with the c1750b built this weekend. LOVE IT. Built open frame using Rosewill z1 coolers.
Also added a control box to house a power plug, dim pot, and ammeter for output level. Gl OG
 
@YES I you can run thr cobs at any current up to the maximum if you want.
I am many others dont do that, not because we dont know what the max is they can handle, but because the less you run to them the more lumens per watt you attain.
Yes you pay more in the beginning, but you get more yield per watt in the longrun with less heat from waste, more even coverage etc...
 
It looked to me as if cutter had plenty of drivers available that aren't mean well but do have a 5 year warranty.

Anyone try those??
 
Cutter has Pairui drivers and I already bought a 250-C1400 but I don't think they have any of the 200-C1750's in stock,need something in a hurry.
 
Hi peeps, I have been looking at this build for a few days now. Have to say it's very interesting. Today I began gathering part numbers and availability. Being new to LED lighting was a jump but I haven't drowned yet, this post and others have helped a lot. DIY is kind of my thing but I like to make sure the end result is worth my time first.

I do have a question or two on the 8 COB build being comparable to a 400w MH light. Could someone explain the math here?

Second, whats the penetration of this cxb2590 COB, correct me if I am wrong but I expect lolly-popping and SCROD are the way to go.

Here's my contribution. I have been looking for the LED driver also and found this page. It list 3 sellers with availability, unfortunately it looks like $70 is the going rate for the drivers. I have seen them listed in the $40's over sea's but as stated earlier, do you want to trust them?
https://octopart.com/search?q=hlg-240H-c
 
Coming back to this thread...my experience with my 3590s and the 1750mA driver is that it was a little overkill and a 1400mA driver would likely have served me (almost as) well. "Overkill" because back then we I had the light built some months ago the HLG 240W 1750mA driver was rare and barely available, more expensive etc.... it was more like I wanted the "best of the best" so I insisted on the 1750mA driver. It is my understanding those COBs run most efficiently at about 50W, if you run them at 1750mA you get (of course) more light, but 63W is a little less efficient. For some this could be a criterion. That being said I am happy with my lights. I am of course only running them at full power when I am flowering, even dimmed down (with the internal dimmer) to 850mA this is a ****ton of light for vegging, 550 something PPFD for my area. Doesn't get any dimmer.

As for penetration...it is my understanding that lenses are very beneficial there if you want to max out penetration.

Edit: No, I wouldn't want to buy a "cheap" LED driver from ebay, unless some reputable guy on the forum would vouch for a particular vendor. Greenhouse = wet, dusty, humid, fire hazard, lamp is DIY lamp with

Edit2: I would be careful buying a "cheap" driver off ebay etc...greenhouse is humid, wet, dusty etc...not something where I'd want to risk anything with low quality components.
If someone would sell the MW drivers for $40 I'd be VERY wary
 
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