Any one using ERP led drivers

justsmokedope

justsmokedope

Well-Known Member
any one using or planning to use erp led drivers from http://www.erp-power.com/

these things look really interesting they have bluetooth controls and you can adjust the ma so you can use this for 1700ma or 1400ma or less all using a app i believe

ive been looking at the CDB260W-1700-210-W
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
They were featured on greengenes channel a couple of weeks ago. His take was that they would be very nice for monoleds, also for cobs. My problem with them: they wont go up in those high amps needed for 54V boards, i think they only go to 1700mA.
But if youre running things between 700-1700 which is normal for cobs they look really nice, good idea for anyone who only want to ever buy 1 type of driver.

Edit: for clearness; it seems like you can program the driver to hit the voltage you need and it then gives you the corresponding mA for 260W which is real neato. Not just dimming.
 
GrowLightResearch

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member
Why? It is an unreleased new product. Documentation sucks.
Do you have a Bluetooth Mesh compatible controller? It's very new technology.

It says the dimming is 10v PWM. What's programmable?
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
GrowLightResearch said:
Why? It is an unreleased new product. Documentation sucks.
Do you have a Bluetooth Mesh compatible controller? It's very new technology.

It says the dimming is 10v PWM. What's programmable?
Click to expand...
dont know where your seeing PWM, clearly states 0-10v, the current settings are programmable not the dimming
Cheers
Mark
 
GrowLightResearch

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member

Attachments

justsmokedope

justsmokedope

Well-Known Member
welight said:
how many amps do you need, PSB150W-2600-56 is programmable

and is less than the length of an iphone I took this photo with
Cheers
Mark
Click to expand...
im looking to run 8 vero29 c so im trying to get 4 i like the drivers as the one i was looking at is 93% efficiant and i can dim the vero 29s at any ma from 800- 1700 i like the flexibility but there not readily available yet says sampling i have emailed them trying to get a few and also stating im not after a freebee either and would pay for them obviously free would be great though
 
justsmokedope

justsmokedope

Well-Known Member
GrowLightResearch said:
That's how drivers do the dimming. The 0-10V signal changes the PWM dimming duty cycle from 0-100%.


It's a constant current driver. What's the difference between current settings and dimming?

All I had to go on is the attached PDF. Not very clear.



Why?
Click to expand...
as it gives me the abillity to change the max ma range from 800ma -1700ma for example it might be better for effacacy to run vero 29 c at 1400ma but at some point i might want to increase the light intensity to the plants say buy increasing to 1700ma without having to swap out drivers .

i beleave the difference between dimming and just changing the ma is that dimming is like a resister and waists wattage . So dilling down your ma might be a better option how ever dimming does allow you to dimm down to 0 and up to 100% , also you can't put a 1000ma led on a regular 1700ma driver and just dimm it
This diver gives you the ability to reuse the same driver for many projects, with many different leds in different ma , with out buying anouther driver .
 
GrowLightResearch

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member
justsmokedope said:
also you can't put a 1000ma led on a regular 1700ma driver and just dimm it
Click to expand...
Why not? It's actually better to do it that way.
When you dim, the duty cycle of the PWM is reduced.

At 1700ma if the duty cycle is 100%, at 1000ma it's 59% (1000/1700)
This means the output is turned off 41% of the time.
This increases the life of the LED about 40%.
NOTE: There are limitations to the pulsed current limits of the LED.
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
0-10V is analog dimming, sine wave, PWM is digital, binary, off and on, square wave, these are not digital dimming drivers
 
justsmokedope

justsmokedope

Well-Known Member
GrowLightResearch said:
Why not? It's actually better to do it that way.
When you dim, the duty cycle of the PWM is reduced.

At 1700ma if the duty cycle is 100%, at 1000ma it's 59% (1000/1700)
This means the output is turned off 41% of the time.
This increases the life of the LED about 40%.
NOTE: There are limitations to the pulsed current limits of the LED.
Click to expand...
possibly but i wouldnt want to try it as i would prob accidently burn out my leds
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
justsmokedope said:
im looking to run 8 vero29 c so im trying to get 4 i like the drivers as the one i was looking at is 93% efficiant and i can dim the vero 29s at any ma from 800- 1700 i like the flexibility but there not readily available yet says sampling i have emailed them trying to get a few and also stating im not after a freebee either and would pay for them obviously free would be great though
Click to expand...
do you want the PDB or CDB version(programmable no comms vs Comms version)?
Cheers
Mark
 
GrowLightResearch

GrowLightResearch

Well-Known Member
welight said:
0-10V is analog dimming, sine wave, PWM is digital, binary, off and on, square wave, these are not digital dimming drivers
Click to expand...
Not so sure that is true. In a constant current driver design the max current can be adjustable but is typically set in design parameters for efficiency.
As the max current load changes, to maintain efficiency, the switching frequency and output inductance must be balanced.
In switching current drivers there is no such thing as not digital or sine wave output. It's the conduction mode, continuous, discontinuous, or both.
The current is ALWAYS regulated with an on-off switching signal.
Non-digital would imply linear, but you cannot get 93% efficiency with a linear CC source.

Look at the 0-10v dimmer on this Mean Well Type B block diagram. See how the arrows lead to the PWM circuit. It changes the duty cycle.
It also monitors the current level and uses PWM to regulate the current. All on-off signals.
Even when PWM is on, the output is switching on and off at 100,000 Khz


MeanWellBlockDiagram.jpg
 
justsmokedope

justsmokedope

Well-Known Member
GrowLightResearch said:
It appears the bluetooth is "bluetooth mesh".

Not sure what level of programming you are familiar with (e.g. firmware), but using zigbee and bluetooth could be a major undertaking.
Unless user level apps or APIs are provided.
Click to expand...
on the data sheet it says protocols are available upon request so we will see im normally ok at figuring these types of things . it does stand to reason that they must be supplying some info if they are selling such drivers
 
justsmokedope

justsmokedope

Well-Known Member
GrowLightResearch said:
It appears the bluetooth is "bluetooth mesh".

Not sure what level of programming you are familiar with (e.g. firmware), but using zigbee and bluetooth could be a major undertaking.
Unless user level apps or APIs are provided.
Click to expand...
Bluetooth. Mesh Profile is based on Bluetooth Core v4.0 and later versions, it works on existing devices after a simple firmware update. Bluetooth mesh builds on top of an ecosystem of billions of compatible devices such as smartphones, laptops and low-power devices on the market today . My laptop has Bluetooth Core v4.0 so should be fine or i can always buy a £12 bluetooth v5 dongle for other devices .It also looks like my esp 32 micro controler also has mesh too so happy days
 
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wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
These do look interesting. Nice and compact and dim-to-off in smaller drivers would be welcome too. Plus the Bluetooth communication option is cool to have. Working on Bluetooth (BLE) sensors/controllers myself.

GrowLightResearch said:
Even when PWM is on, the output is switching on and off at 100,000 Khz
Click to expand...
Unfortunately the GRL troll is here too. Even if it was 100KHz PWM, who cares? HPS lights or fluorescent tubes flicker at much lower frequencies.

But then there are rectifiers and a filter behind the power switching, so even if they do use 100KHz PWM at the power switching input, those would smooth out the output.

The 3 in 1 (PWM, 0-10V, resistance) dimming input is a system where you get an analog voltage regardless of which input method you choose.
 
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