any advice apreciated

Started a new grow a while ago currently at week 5 of flower . 3 strain's 10 plants . (4x drkrippling incredible bulk) (4X royal gorrila and 2 X whitewidow bibblegum) growing In coco hydro 60/40 mix with canna nutes no issues so far . 3x 600w hps in cool tubes 1 X 600w vipaspectra 1x400w vipaspectra . I have just started to add my pk boost which I will run for 5 days but it brings my ec to 1.2 . I can not see no major problems only very slight burn tips but very very very slight . Canna recommend an ec of like 2 at this point which I know will definitely burn them but I want to know with me feeding them daily at my e.c at drain to waste with cannazym canna a and b and canna boost plus pk be strong enough for them I also wanted to know if I can still slightly lst to get more light into the canopy instead of removing fan leaves . Also I wanted to ask at what point will it be safe to not worry about them herming or is there not a point for this . Also last thing is I want to add one open 600 w hps as I'm worried about the cool tubes taking away a lot of u.v etc but my temps are currently at 25 oc lights on and 20oc off so will cause more heat . Thank you for reading this x

Ive only used canna a&b with cal-mag.
I believe canna's feeding schedule is too strong. As flowering continues, i always have nute burn. I've been experimenting with lowering ppms toward the end but still seeing burn. Ran below the "light" feeding schedule from canna.com plus started fading nutes three weeks ago & still got the burn. These are finishing at 550-600ppm.
I thought about vegging with canna a&b then switching to the Maxibloom, that's on the shelf, for flowering. The maxi has less nitrogen, which is what i think is causing some burn.

Hey Dylan, I guess you got your environment sorted out ey!

So yeah you can run reduced EC especially when feeding daily.
Canna's chart is a bit excessive.
You can open your canopy by placing stakes between branches or gently lsting. What ever you like without doing damage really.

As far as uv goes I don't think HPS has any worth measuring anyway. Might be wrong though. Be better to chuck in some reptile strip lights or a MH bulb or cmh.

If heat is not an issue yes you can take out the glass youll gain 5-10% more light maybe.. 25C is fine you can go to 26-27 and should still be fine but some strain will take it better than other so make sure to monitor them if you decide to go that route

End of pk week

I'd consider some fan leaf defoliation to let in more light, only large fan leaves,lollipop the bottom 12-18 inch at least, or wherever your popcorn is. Lst this far in flower won't help you that much imo. Nice work!

I am on day 43 flower , is it correct to wait for 80 0/0 of hairs to turn orange and /or go 21 more days from the first sight of natural orange hairs to apear ? They started to go orange 7 days ago

Dylanfurlong said:

I am on day 43 flower , is it correct to wait for 80 0/0 of hairs to turn orange and /or go 21 more days from the first sight of natural orange hairs to apear ? They started to go orange 7 days ago

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It depends on who you ask. What are the trichomes telling you? Most of the time, growers will gauge ripeness based on the color of the trichomes. Some plants pistils change color sooner than others.

I haven't looked yet but I guess I will look on day 50/52 ? The breeder says 7/8 weeks for the( royal gorilla) and 8/9 for (Dr krippling incredible bulk ) plus my
Loop is only 30x so I find it hard to see

Is there any tips to make them ripen faster like raise the lights etc ? Oh and my heat at lights off is very hot atm like 28/29.0c and only 25/26 when on . I can't manage it at all will this effect anything ? With negative dif

Dylanfurlong said:

Is there any tips to make them ripen faster like raise the lights etc ? Oh and my heat at lights off is very hot atm like 28/29.0c and only 25/26 when on . I can't manage it at all will this effect anything ? With negative dif

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Your temps are actually a good thing. It's called "negative dif" or differential. This is when the day time is cooler than the night time. Positive dif is reversed. Zero dif is when they're the same.

As far as harbesting goes, stop watering 3 days before harvest after you flush, get the humidity as low as you possibly can, and give them 72 hours of darkness.

I feel like the cure is really what you should focus on, though. I've had bud that's been cured a week and the same stuff cured a month longer, it's like a different strain altogether, in a good way. It's all about the drying and the cure...