Analog timer overheating

Grojak

Grojak

Well-Known Member
Stocazzed024 said:
Hi guys, I wanted to ask you a question. I accidentally dropped my digital timer while I was getting it and it doesn't work anymore, I found a brand new timer among my stuff, it is analog but good quality but as soon as I plug in the lights it seems to overheat the timer. I don't get burned by touching it but you can feel that it is a little warm while the sockets are totally cold. do you say this could be normal or should I get another timer?
I've been with this timer for 2 weeks now and I don't smell burning and the heat hasn't increased.
I would like to point out that a good quality power strip is attached to the timer to which in turn two 300w lamps are attached. Everything else is attached in different sockets.
I thank you in advance
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Analog timers do this, I ran a 1k hps on one that was almost to hot to touch. I couldn’t tell you how long I did thia, I’ve never had a timer burn up though. All digital these days though
 
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Roadblock007

Well-Known Member
Grojak said:
Analog timers do this, I ran a 1k hps on one that was almost to hot to touch. I couldn’t tell you how long I did thia, I’ve never had a timer burn up though. All digital these days though
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The thing with timers is they have contact points and when pulling high amps those points get like little weld spots on them that can cause them to get stuck on, best method is to have a contactor take the load and the timer just turns that on and off never have a problem with overloading a timer this way.
 
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Stocazzed024

Member
Delps8 said:
I learned my lesson using a mechanical timer for my one grow in 2017. I reset the timer incorrectly after a power outage here in the People's Republic of California and the plants revegged. I haven't used a mechanical timer since.

Since 2/21, I've been using Kasa Smart Strip has 6 AC outlets, 2 USB and it's $50±. The Kasa iPhone app allows you to control and schedule each outlet and it tracks energy usage for each outlet.

View attachment 5236232

The power strip is rated for 1800 watts. ATM, the three lights are consuming 550 watts. I use two power strips to control almost all of the devices for my grow (12 out of 13).
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eh guys, unfortunately i live in an apartment that was designed for vacation home and i share the upstairs with strangers and every few minutes they disconnect the shared connection. i was thinking about some smart plugs too but i don't risk honestly
PS: sorry for answering now
 
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Stocazzed024

Member
Rurumo said:
I use the BN Link mechanical timers but never notice them getting warm, and run less than 500 watts through them. Most important thing is to check all your connections regularly.
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i had a few other analog timers that i don't use and i tried attaching it to a lamp by the bed to check that it didn't work. result? it got hot as well! it doesn't get all hot but only a small part on the right but if i unplug it and touch the iron contacts they are cold.
I always check and try every cycle to improve the safety of my setup but every time there is a new one
 
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Stocazzed024

Member
Roadblock007 said:
You understand a space heater will pull 2400 watts, an electric kettle will full 1800 to 2400 watts, clothes drier will pull 2400 watts, which is all the rated max of a normal 10amp circuit, the problem is how many outlets are on the same circuit, growers will set up a room and everything runs through a single 10 amp circuit that's where problems can overload it, people need to spread the load.

The best way for grow lights is to run a contactor switch and the timer turns that on and off, its simple to set up and you will never have issues with timers, any electrical supplier sells them and its 2 wires from the timer to the contactor then to the appliance, these fancy plug units in hydro shops they charge a leg for are just a box with contactors in it.

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yes but you also understand that you can't plug sockets like the refrigerator or microwave together into the same outlet? if it was a single 1000w and then one outlet I wouldn't be surprised but I certainly wouldn't plug a washing machine (or microwave) and a refrigerator into the same outlet via a power strip, timer or multi-socket. I would connect them individually or at least get something that is made specifically to hold certain powers
 
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Stocazzed024

Member
Grojak said:
Analog timers do this, I ran a 1k hps on one that was almost to hot to touch. I couldn’t tell you how long I did thia, I’ve never had a timer burn up though. All digital these days though
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But I guess they do that regardless at this point...I'm not going to risk it and replace it right away but to tell you the truth yesterday I tried a timer I had at home with a bed lamp to test if it worked and always in the right side a small area overheats. and we're talking about very few watts
 
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Roadblock007

Well-Known Member
Stocazzed024 said:
yes but you also understand that you can't plug sockets like the refrigerator or microwave together into the same outlet? if it was a single 1000w and then one outlet I wouldn't be surprised but I certainly wouldn't plug a washing machine (or microwave) and a refrigerator into the same outlet via a power strip, timer or multi-socket. I would connect them individually or at least get something that is made specifically to hold certain powers
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You never overload a circuit doesn't matter how many appliances are on it so long as your not overloading the circuit breaker you're on, that has nothing to do with running a contactor to take startup load off the timer when it clicks on to fire up lighting.
 
futurebanjo

futurebanjo

Well-Known Member
Roadblock007 said:
You never overload a circuit doesn't matter how many appliances are on it so long as your not overloading the circuit breaker you're on, that has nothing to do with running a contactor to take startup load off the timer when it clicks on to fire up lighting.
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^this.


My kettle is 2200w... it would melt a cheap timer, not that i'd ever put my kettle on a timer.
 
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Stocazzed024

Member
Roadblock007 said:
You never overload a circuit doesn't matter how many appliances are on it so long as your not overloading the circuit breaker you're on, that has nothing to do with running a contactor to take startup load off the timer when it clicks on to fire up lighting.
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Maybe you don't understand what I'm worried about! I don't worry about putting 2000w in an outlet but if I were to plug in two 1000w lamps I would obviously have to use a multi-socket or power strip to run them on the same timer. I am not saying it is impossible or crazy to plug a fucking outlet but I am saying that I would rather not plug the timer, a multi outlet and the two lamps into the same outlet since the power has to be backed up first by the multi outlet, then to the timer and finally to the outlet. It would be so easy to overload one of the three and cause a fire.
 
LeastExpectedGrower

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Stocazzed024 said:
If you were to connect two hair dryers to the same outlet, yes.
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Only if you're super scared of the dark in the .5 second it takes for the breakers to flip in the basement or the GFI to pop in the bathroom.

Used to live in an old apartment where you'd trip breakers if you ran the toaster and microwave at the same time, or if someone dried their hair and you ran the electric kettle in the kitchen. It wasn't any more than a nuisance.

When I was on tour I ran a 2500w amplifier, several preamps & a bunch of other amps and gear...often on the same circuit/outlet. I asked for a high amperage circuit but many venues didn't pay attention to the rider. Kicked in the breakers in a few theaters but it was never a fire risk.
 
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Roadblock007

Well-Known Member
Stocazzed024 said:
Maybe you don't understand what I'm worried about! I don't worry about putting 2000w in an outlet but if I were to plug in two 1000w lamps I would obviously have to use a multi-socket or power strip to run them on the same timer. I am not saying it is impossible or crazy to plug a fucking outlet but I am saying that I would rather not plug the timer, a multi outlet and the two lamps into the same outlet since the power has to be backed up first by the multi outlet, then to the timer and finally to the outlet. It would be so easy to overload one of the three and cause a fire.
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A timer has a rated current, most in Aus are 10 amps which will handle at max 3 600watts lights or 2 1000 watt lights, so long as the load is under the timers 10 amp rating there wont be a problem with the timer, the thing with lighting is the startup uses more amps and then lowers to its continual use flow of current, this startup can overload the circuit, lots of modern lights have a staggered startup to address this when lights are multi ganged on one circuit.

Now when the lights first start up they use more amperage and can overload the timer, or the multi-plug board, or the main circuit breaker, all these parts have rated amps, no matter what the configuration the rule is don't go over the lowest rated item along the entire circuit.

With timers the biggest risk of breakdown is the startup where the initial surge of power is highest, this is why you run a contactor between the timer and the appliance.

A single timer and contactor can be used to power on/of any number of lights, so long as the lights are split onto different feed circuits so the lights don't overload the main breakers. like you could pull the lighting power from 4 different circuits that have 2 or 3 lights on each, the single timer and contactor would control them all. The timer is only turning the contactor on/off there is no high current going through the timer its going through the contactor in that situation you would use a 4 pole contactor which means you have 4 feeds going in to the contactor and 4 feeds going out, its all just a matter of adding up your current draw in watts and splitting that across your circuit limitations, plugs, timers, multi plug boards, double adaptors etc, each have a rated max amps, and the lowest rating is your limitation on any single circuit, if you want to run a lot of things you need to spread the load across many circuits by either drawing from different power points around the house that go back to a different breaker in your main power box on the side of the house, or by running a heavy cable to the main power box connecting to main supply line on a 60amp breaker and then split that into say 6 x 10amp plugs inside the room.
 
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rmax

Well-Known Member
Take your thermometer and lay it on the timer to get an approximate temp then email the timer manufacturer and ask them if the temp is within spec.
 
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