almost caught fire, electrical question

jonjon777 said:

It came with the light kit???

Then again, all my extension cords and power strips say 15 amps and or 1875 watts... And look what happened..

Also, I went to Lowes and the super thin ext cords say 15 amps as well as the thicker cords.. ???

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Read what I wrote about temperatures. Their ratings also are an absolute maximum that is probably only realistic for short periods, not 12+ hours of constant current.

1- 1000w light per 15 amp breaker with nothing else on it. Generally you don't want to put more than 80% of the breakers capability on the circuit, so 15amp circuit shouldn't have more than 12 amps total put on it, this leaves a little room for start up draws,surges,etc. If you're running 4000W, I'd look into running a 220V circuit just for lighting if your lights are capable of running 220. One 220v 30amp circuit will handle 5000W of power, opening up your 110 for everything else.

I agree with rising temperatures overtime.

I'm moving in june and I am going to run 100 amp breaker to a sub box in use 5 20 amps or something like that, I'll make sure I use thick wire... Like 8/3? whatever they suggest at Lowes I'll beef it up even more...

but for now I'm going to have to live with things the way they are, - the power strips, Plus heavier extension cords...

any suggestions are appreciated,

thanks guys!

You need 220v get away from 110 that's half your.problem. get a light control box for 220 prob 50 amp box and then plug into that. It's designed for big power sucking lights 110 is for fans go big or meet Your maker always over due then under due it's how I work

GrowUrOwnDank said:

Totally stupid advice. "see if it happens again".

Get rid of all that cheap junk dude and focus on some seriously heavy duty stuff.

Stupid advice on the RIU could get you killed.

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I obviously meant to get a better stronger power strip not to get the same shit and try it again, Stupid people on RIU flood the threads with useless arguments and more bullshit to read through to get actual information. How about you give your advise and I will give mine, whichever he chooses is his choice. I agree with you if you go cheap your looking for trouble.

break down and get AFCI outlet for each circuit your useing. They are better than GFCI outlets. they are double the price but are made for stopping electrical fires. Like someone mentioned before, hard wiring it would be your best bet. they do the same with our high amp welders at my shop cuz the plugs always eventually smoke them selfs. If thats really not an option than you just gotta beef everything up obviously.

Dude when using anything in a humid grow room over do it! Even the low draw stuff is subject to failure. My Co2 smoked out and its mini watts compared to your 4-1000's+ just saying be overly cautious man.


don't trust these piece of shit either. they shut down for no reason.

And when in doubt get electrical help.

The larger blade in your picture is burned and that is usually the neutral. Get a tester and make sure you do not have a polarity issue, if it was a loose/dirty connection it is possible the polarity is fine. 12 guage wire is always the way to go. I think its a good idea to use as few extension cords, power bars etc. as possible, as you have found every connection point is a potential fire. Have an electrician hard wire a bunch more outlets for everything if you aren't 100% sure you can do it yourself. I'm always amazed at how warm wires, plugs, timers and everything gets with a 1000w light after 10h on.

Lose connection on the phase pin inside the cheap chinese power board..

Loose connections generally will show heat discolouring to plastic over time......

I always tighten the copper bars inside with long nose pliers or some tool.................as other have said, best policy, Hard Wire that shit.

Make sure your lead cords are appropriate length. If you only need 10 foot lead don't use a 50. That will help a lot With voltage drops and heat. you weren't overdoing it on the plugs. It was either a loose connection or dirty connection. Use 12 wire and hard wire if you can. (Already said but good info)

220v runs on lower current. It's safer. For now check out the Titan Apollo 4. Only safe timer I know of that doesn't require hard wiring. That burnt timer is not made for a 1000 watt light.

12 gauge wire! 20 amp breakers. and hardwired into gfci outlets are the best bet. I like to do one breaker for 1000W or two 600W. and a dedicated breaker for fans, dehumid/ac ect. ect. others have already said this but get away from power strips. keep those for your tv.