...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
nvhak49 said:
Been thinking about putting some vero cobs together for clone vegging and mothers. Someone told me he uses vero 18 and runs them at 350mA. I'm new to all of this I want to make some for my flowering tent but I'll probably go with Cree CXA 3070. But for my first DIY Ill keep it cheap and simple. Do you guys think vero 18 5000k ran at 350ml would be good for vegging and clones?
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I think 5000K is the best option (within the given selections of BridgeLux products) for for vegging and cloning, although some would argue that 4000K is the best.

At 350mA you could have the Vero 18s really close to the plants, although 700mA seems to be a sweet spot for me.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
nvhak49 said:
I'll try them at 350 at first and see how I like it. Would these drivers work?
Where do you get your veros from, are there different bins that are better like with cree's?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=201275811320
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I use the APC drivers as well. They are cheap and compact but are not known as being the most efficient series from MeanWell. If your looking for compact but wouldn't mind spending an extra few for better efficiency, then check out the PLD series - they are very similar to the APC series but have better parts in them, which translates to higher efficiency (~87% vs. ~83%, near full loads @115VDC) for us growers.

http://www.meanwell.com/search/pld-25/PLD-25-spec.pdf

I've ordered my Veros from Digikey in the past.
 
Mechmike

Mechmike

Well-Known Member
I use 3500k with good results. I like the slightly higher K-temp because they make more light per watt and they have enough red to flower nicely. I also use 660nm deep red though and that makes a big difference in but density. Most whites come up short in the deep red area. From what I seen the only one with enough deep red is the Vero Decor which is mentioned in the Vero datasheets but doesn't seem to be available to buy.
 
uzerneims

uzerneims

Well-Known Member
Mechmike said:
I use 3500k with good results. I like the slightly higher K-temp because they make more light per watt and they have enough red to flower nicely. I also use 660nm deep red though and that makes a big difference in but density. Most whites come up short in the deep red area. From what I seen the only one with enough deep red is the Vero Decor which is mentioned in the Vero datasheets but doesn't seem to be available to buy.
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Wich deep red's can you recommend?
Like for one squareft, how many wats of deep red you put on?
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
Mechmike said:
I use 3500k with good results. I like the slightly higher K-temp because they make more light per watt and they have enough red to flower nicely. I also use 660nm deep red though and that makes a big difference in but density. Most whites come up short in the deep red area. From what I seen the only one with enough deep red is the Vero Decor which is mentioned in the Vero datasheets but doesn't seem to be available to buy.
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Not really sure what you consider deep red, 640-680nm sounds ok?
Then Vero décor 3000K has only 8.5% more of such light than Vero 3000K 80CRI and 10% less than Vero 3000K 80CRI v2.
V18 size, watt for watt, absolute.
vero18-diff3K.jpg
And a detail.
vero18-diff3K-640-680.jpg

I'm not trying to say that some extra deep red is not beneficial. Vero décor just isn't a good choice to add it.
 
Lighterfighter

Lighterfighter

Well-Known Member
Hey I was looking into building a light for 6-700$ to cover a 2x4 or 3x3 area or bigger. I was wondering if vero has uv or ir range. Of if the light would need that. Additionally looking into the crees. But I was thinking of making a sliding rail system for light distribution management. and maybe adding reds but need more alot more info lol any advice is appreciated. I need to pick a light, maybe a lense, a driver, heat sink, fans, anything else?
 
Mechmike

Mechmike

Well-Known Member
alesh said:
Not really sure what you consider deep red, 640-680nm sounds ok?
Then Vero décor 3000K has only 8.5% more of such light than Vero 3000K 80CRI and 10% less than Vero 3000K 80CRI v2.
V18 size, watt for watt, absolute.
View attachment 3355377
And a detail.
View attachment 3355378

I'm not trying to say that some extra deep red is not beneficial. Vero décor just isn't a good choice to add it.
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I totally agree with that. I was just trying to point out that there are not many whites that have enough deep red for my liking. I prefer to just add some deep red to supplement lower CRI whites with more punch rather than use high CRI emitters that have more deep red. High CRI is made for the human eye. Lower CRI = higher Lumens/watt.
 
Mechmike

Mechmike

Well-Known Member
UKpeanuts said:
Hey Mechmike - what sort of power are you using with the 660nm leds, compared to the total power of your cobs? Could you recomend a small 660nm chip, i'm interested in dense nugs :P
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About 8% of my total wattage for my flowering area is deep red. I have everything switched so I can choose when to deploy the deep red. I run them at ~650ma. I am using Luxeon Es deep reds from Stevesleds.com but only because the Cree XPE Photo red wasn't available when I bought mine. They're comparable but the XPE is a bit better in terms of efficiency. I should mention that in Europe the Osram Golden Dragon deep reds are more easily found than in the West and they are very highly regarded as well.
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
That picture of the flex is bad imo, simply they could have taken a better shot or taken another one to go along with it. I can't figure out why the other side doesn't flex to the same degree. Maybe I'm looking at it backwards.
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:bigjoint:

It's a photo of the "profile" ..
You can't see the other "side" ...
What you see is the profile of a flexed-bend array and it's reflectance to the surface of a mirror polished heatsink .
Array plastic case - and not the actual COB ,which is made from aluminium*** - bends upwards .
The other side,most likely, is same as flexed as the one shown ..


***
vero29.jpg
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
:bigjoint:

It's a photo of the "profile" ..
You can't see the other "side" ...
What you see is the profile of a flexed-bend array and it's reflectance to the surface of a mirror polished heatsink .
Array plastic case - and not the actual COB ,which is made from aluminium*** - bends upwards .
The other side,most likely, is same as flexed as the one shown ..


***
View attachment 3355923
Click to expand...
I've taken better pictures with my eyes closed :sleep:.

:lol:
 
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