Al! THANKS again for all the GREAT, no bullshit information you give to us!
no wucking furries, mate.
I've read every page in Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks and every page of this thread.
A pretty tough slog, but worth it.
I have two questions that i wanted to run by you. First, dealing with cooltubes, do u think there would be an advantage to running seperate fan and exhaust tubes for each cooltube to try to elimate even more heat from the light to possible even bring them closer to the palnts?
Each 1000HPS causes about a 6C rise in the temp of the air going through the tube. So, if you have 20C intake air, the air exiting the first cooltube will be 26c, then 32C as it exits the second cooltube. I don't think it would make much difference if you have just two cooltubes in one daisy chain. It's when you add a third one inline that the air temp in the cooltube is high enough that it begins to significantly warm the glass in cooltube #3 and the ducting downline from that tube. When the ducting & glass gets warm, that heat will begin to convect through the duct and into the growroom airmass, defeating the purpose of having cooltubes. It certainly will not hurt to have a blower and separate ducting for each cooltube though.
Second, heat in grows rooms are a mjaor concern but what about cold? What is an acceptable cold temp?
Cannabis plants go dormant below about 16C.
I am askign b/c i plan on building a grow room in a basement and basement temps always seem to be a cooler than rest of house.
About 1m below the surface, the earth is a constant 15-16C. This means that your basement will be cooler than ambient air temp in the summer but will be significantly
warmer than ambient in the winter. Your basement will probably be 14-16C in winter, depending upon how well insulated any part of it which is above 1m below the surface happens to be. You will probably find that your lighting alone is enough to raise your room temp to 25C in winter. If you use cooltubes, you may want to organise a wye pipe on the outlet end of the cooltube, with one outlet of the wye going out of the room and one opening into the grow, allowing warm air from the lighting to remain in the op. You simply block one outlet depending on the time of year.
Yes there is water dripping off the stems, They are sprayed from the water pump pushing through those little red mist heads--which seems a little violent to me, not airsones/airpump (although it came with an airpump/stone to o2-ate the res)
My aerocloner was a deep tub, about 400mm deep with about 50mm of water in the bottom. An airstone in the water created the mist. I ran the air pump for 5 mins every 30, could have been every hour. If you have sprayers constantly wetting your stems, they will rot. Small secret- it does not take exposing stems to liquid water to get root nodes, only very high humidity.
I am having trouble finding a digital minute-timer in stock around my part of the world so I have had to order one online--should be here in a couple days.
Wow, I can't imagine where one would have to live to not be able to easily source a digital timer. Sorry for your grief, but you need some digital timers
Hey.
Just wondering how you control the temp in your bud dryer...
With a thermostat. I use a modified
Jaycar QT7200. I have removed the thermistor (temp sensor) from the thermostat and added a length of 2-conductor wire so the thermistor can be located in the warm airstream flowing into the dryer.
note little blue thermistor located in airstream
I have more detailed images showing how to disassemble & mod the QT7200 if you need them.
I can't seem to get an accurate temp control of my soldering iron with the incandescent dimmer...it just goes from off to very hot in the middle of rotation...any help would be appreciated...thanks.
Yep, you need a thermostat switching the soldering iron heating element on and off.
Also how big is your heatsink?
It is 150mm long x 75mm wide x 50mm thick. Fins run along the 150mm axis.
updated picture if you remember me from a couple weeks ago.
Hi again.
i think i'm likeing this hydro thing better than my soil grows, alot easier to control everbody and the same time.
It's an awful lot easier than some would have you believe.
again thanks for helpin me out in the begining
no worries
edit* i'm expecting about .5 per watt with my two 400's , next cycle i'm building the room a tad bigger to have another table like this with some light moving rails , i would then think .5 - 1.0 may be possible
.5g/W is a reasonable expectation for a new grower in SoG.
I'd skip the light mover. If the area you are lighting is too large for the lighting you have, add more or bigger lights. The problem with light movers is that there's no light over one end of the grow while the mover has the lamp on the other end. You have to consider a new figure- lux-hours, or lumens per sq metre per hour, to account for the time that the mover has the lamp on the other end of the grow. Also, linear light movers do not distribute light evenly; the plants in the middle of the traverse get more lux-hours than the plants on the ends of the travel.
I would like to know what if any enviroment controllers you use and co2 controllers also.
I don't use CO2 and only use thermostats to control the intake & exhaust blowers.
I had to make 2 closets for my grow each closets has 2 trays I know I have to get 2 co2 injection controllers but to read PH EC TDS I need 2 also?
No, you really only need one EC meter and one pH meter to test your solutions.
Question, If I order the ...
High Tech Garden Supply
What do I mount all the components too? Wood or do I need something that can with stand some heat. Any pics of how other people mount and place these components in?
A piece of plywood will do fine. I buy already assembled ballasts, which are contained in a steel box, so I have not had to gin one up as such- so sorry, no pix. Component placement is not critical.
