ok al. well your location explains it.any one of those stores on my previous post..you can get these by the crapload for just under 5.00USD
left 45w 2900 lumens
right 42w 2700 lumens
Well, your location unfortunately doesn't explain why you can't tell the difference between 42, 45 % 150W. Most Americans (incl. moi) are smarter than that. Like I said, your $5, 150W CFL doesn't exist. Dang, I guess I get no sweet lovin' with a 150W CFL.
In the 2 week harvest thread you say you are getting 1/2 to 3/4 oz per plant. Somewhere in this thread I thought I read you are now getting 1 to 1/12 oz per plant . What did you do or change to increase your yield?
I fixed a number of small problems (my errors, mostly) between then & now, but adding cooltubes to my 1000HPS bottles was the major improvement. Now the room stays spot on 25C +/-1C, had previously wandered as high as 28-29, even with ambient intake air at 23-25C. Significantly improved the yield.
I am thinking about starting up some new moms from clones, My current moms just donated their 6th pass ( started from seed).
It's like the Magic Pudding, innit? All the cuttings and mother plants you need, in perpetuity.
I've been propagating ST4 by cuttings since 2002.
Because I am vegging under flouro, im not getting the 9", >5.5mm clones that I would really like to get, and my strike rate and time sucks too.
Yep, maybe you have a 175MH or 250HPS in your future.
I am getting it dialed in, I number the plants, then use an alpha character to denote the pass of clone it is ,( e.g. "4F" is the 6th pass on plant 4.) so i can track what is working and what is not.
And the way you dial it in is precisely as you're doing. Keeping track is hard to do, but that's exactly how you fix stuff like this.Keep after it.
So far round "D" ( which is where i swiched from gel to powder) has been the most successful,
Someday I'll tell you about this w33d b4R0n who chided me for being uneducated and backward (said I was 'old school'
) because I believed the powders work better than the NEW NEW NEW Clonex gel.Oh, man, I crack me up.
but they are still pretty small clones. Im concerned that either my yeild will suck if i flower them at this stage with no veg time, or that I will have to suck it up and veg under hps for a few weeks ( too long inbetween harvest for my taste)
Fuck it, flower 'em. They'll yield. It'll give you an interesting comparison point for stuff you do later down the track.
What do you think about tossing the old moms into the flowering cab?
They are 16-17" on average, and I have around 40" from bottom of tray to light in the cab. Is there any disadvantage to doing so?
No particular disadvantage to flowering your retiring mums other than they take up a lot of real estate and you don't have much.
I thought effective wattage didn't count, and that it was the true wattage that mattered?
Absolutely right. The 'equivalent incandescent wattage' number is meaningless in our application.
I just wanted to show $9.97 is not the same as $5.00
And 42W/45W is not 150W!
My issue is that my plants are not holding on to their leafs, even though new growth looks perfect. All the bigger fan leafs start to yellow and die off.
You will see plants in late flowering normally drop some of their lower fans. My mother plants also tend to drop some lower fans which are shaded by upper foliage. I'm not sure that's what's happening for you, notably in
this pic, which has me kinda worried. The new growth looks good but those fans with yellowing blades are worrisome. If the new growth is OK, we'll ignore those.
I run a controlled environment with co2 injection.
Lucky you.
I do not vent during lights on, my co2 remains at 1500 -1700 during lights on. I obviously vent during lights off. A lot off guys vent 5 min. every 2 hours during lights on, is that necessary?
If you're controlling your temp & RH with aircon and supplying CO2 from a tank, you really need never open the door to the op, much less vent every hour.
I had only one glitch with this grow, it was a ph issue during veg that caused a severe def. Aside from a root aphid infestion on the Bubba Kush when I got it from the dispensary. I thought that once it was corrected the plant would progress normal, am I wrong in assuming that? It appears almost like the plants are still deficient, but the new growth has a nice mid green color.
Aphids don't normally attack roots. They're sap suckers and they normally attack leaves or stems. As long as the new growth is looking good, it's off to the races.
My roots look snow white on all 4 plants. I was concerned about the 2" layer of rock wool on the top causing rot due to water retension, but the roots look great.
yes, they DO look good. Well done.
I'm all but certain that the roots are not causing the problem.
I'm not even sure there is a problem anymore, could it be that they are eating their fan leafs do to rapid growth? (I'm only 17 days flower from first pistils)
yeah, if the roots were implicated, you'd see poor vigor all over the plant. It's normal to see a few fans drop late in flowering, I hope that's the case for you.
It also appears that the Bubba Kush (dark green one) is not having any issues, which could mean that I am underfeeding the larger plants but my ec is off the chart already. Base nutes I'm running 1.2 EC I add Sweet, multi enzym and root excelerator and I'm up to 2.5 EC
It'd be nice if you could quote your nute strength in
ppm instead of EC. 1.2EC = 840ppm, 2.5 is 1750 (getting a bit strong there). I'd delete the "sweet, multi enzym and root excelerator" on cause of magic saucery. Stick with nutes and H2O2 50% grade at 1ml/L, pH adjustment as needed.
I do not recerculate, Drip to waste! My drips are running fine I use Canna Substra and there has not been any cloging. My Ph in is 5.6 my ph out is about 5.8 and I'm watching it like a hawk since my earlier ph problems.
ok, works for me.
Do I need to run stronger nutes due to my environment?
No, I'd hold them to 1400ppm.
BTW, I have started your h2o2 maintenance program today
The plants will thank you.
All looks pretty good except for that one plant, but if the new growth on that one remains deep green, she'll be right.
What's the temp in the root chamber? WHen you get pix of the roots of plants with the nodes that popped up into roots quickly but then seemed to halt, let me know.
I bought Milwaukee meters...the waterproof pen style ec meter is GREAT! I did not get the waterproof pH meter...I wish I had! I really like the ec meter.
Don't like Hanna meters much?
I hope for everyone's' sake that Hanna (and Milwaukee) meters are better than they used to was...
Many moons ago, I was buying Hanna pHep meters. They were not waterproof and used screw-compression connectors to tie the pH electrode to the meter ckt bd. This non-waterproof pH meter is still sold by Hanna.
Viewed as a BSEE with >30 years in the field (no old fart comments, k, I know I'm old enough to be most of y'all's father
), when I consider a damp, corrosive environment where a connector is handling a very small signal, I can't think of a WORSE electronic design choice. The Hanna meters I used to buy are now sold as 'disposable' and are very cheap, under $20 these days. No design changes to the meter, just a lower price and a 'disposable' label on the box to lower the buyer's expectations.
I always thought they were disposable, well before they put that spec on the pkg.
