Air Cooled Hoods (x6@600w) Ducting Question w/ Pics

LocknessMD

Active Member
Been designing and building this room for a couple of months now and ran into a little snag.I have a lot of things going on the room but was really curious about ducting 6x600 watt lights for the flower room. I have 2 rows of 3 (will install the last 2 soon.) and I was planning on scrubbing the room, cooling my hoods then exhausting it into the attic. Should I intake from the attic then exhaust to attic? The only problem is the summer, Last summer I rolled insulation and it was 123 degrees in there.. I would like to go attic to attic but the summer is so damn hot. As it stands now I have the 8" fan hanging (adjustable) with scrubber to exhaust into the attic.

The tent in the room is going to be my veg tent (600w). I'm going to intake from the flower room and exhaust into room. I am running co2 (10 Burner estimated 9 min burn time for 1500 ppm) and planned on dropping a 6" fan+filter combo and the floor of flower room (co2 and ac is heavier than air), up the tent and let it cascade cool air + co2 into veg. I figured adding the filter might help scrub the flower room.

I understand I will have to be a timing god and have multiple recycle, 24hr and CHH1 contollers to make it happen as well as control the 18/6 vs 12/12 light battle. I guess I would just like to know how you would duct the flower room lights, start and terminate in attic is the only option. Also adding 2 hanging 10'x3'4" (54 watts sq. ft.) redwood scrog nets and will be running 2 oxygen pot 12 site systems (2x 66 gal res), 4x4 flood+drain for veg :)
 

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superstoner1

Well-Known Member
It is so much easier for controlling your grow to bring air from outside the room, through the lights and then out again. Try to make the in taken from other then the attic and then exhaust into attic. just keep in mind that during winter if you have snow or ice somebody may notice your roof has hot spots.
 

LocknessMD

Active Member
It is so much easier for controlling your grow to bring air from outside the room, through the lights and then out again. Try to make the in taken from other then the attic and then exhaust into attic. just keep in mind that during winter if you have snow or ice somebody may notice your roof has hot spots.
I agree. That's what I want to do. With 120 degrees and greater temperatures in the attic during the summer would it do more harm than good? If I where to buy hoods again I think I would get adjust a wings or something and just pay for the mini-split to do it's job. I thought about just not ducting the hoods too.. I am running CO2. For now I'm going to shoot for 85 degrees and see what I end up with for res temps.
 

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
I agree. That's what I want to do. With 120 degrees and greater temperatures in the attic during the summer would it do more harm than good? If I where to buy hoods again I think I would get adjust a wings or something and just pay for the mini-split to do it's job. I thought about just not ducting the hoods too.. I am running CO2. For now I'm going to shoot for 85 degrees and see what I end up with for res temps.
You do more harm in winter, and it should never be done. I molded the shit out of a attic with shitty gable vents.......

- Jiji
 

Twitch

Well-Known Member
i would do that in Texas and our attics are 140+ and think about how hot the bulb is, 140 degree air is cool to the bulb
there was only one house I didn't do attic to attic, in Texas
 

LocknessMD

Active Member
Thanks for the replies. The climate here is very much like Texas. Guess I'll try to pull some air from the outside.
 
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