advice based on photo

3d420 said:

here is the last 3 i got to sprout, 1 day after going from rooter to cup, like maybe when the tap root touched ffof soil, hot soil? pic named 3 is the one that made it to today despite me. the next problem I had with #3 was i then nute burned the crap out of it even at 1/4 nutes ff big bloom grow big and tiger bloom. i now know to layoff nutes for the babies. once i started with just water #3 came out of it and was doing great imo not really knowing what i was seeing other than green with minor tip issues.

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Well there's your problem right there Jim

Don't feed seedlings and especially don't feed seedlings in hot soil!

you said the soil's hot so why are you feeding the seedlings to begin with??

You're frying those plants, not the fox farm.

I don't feed foxfarm ocean forest anything but water for 4 to 6 weeks, depending how each strain reacts

Also are you sure you've properly calibrated your pH meter? What are you using for calibration solution, did it come with powder or did you buy some?

i would say i was/am unsure what constitutes seedling vs vegging stages. and also, i had the auto schedule looming over my head thinking it was way behind schedule. the nute burn pic was a month ago. i changed to water only and she came out of it seemily very nicely. but then the horns showed and i was confused about it being nit tox when i wasnt even feeding them.

At what point do you start feeding 1/4 strength nutes? what is the indicator, time and or size of plant, number of nodes, number of true leaves, when the cotyledon leaves drop off, etc. one of the things you never seem to read about or come across is a time vs size representation of the process. so it is hard to know when and what to look for. is there a rule of thumb for how long to go before it is too long to go before you start feeding nutes?

i first used the powder to calibrate,also bought solution. i then recalibrated it when the soultions actually came in and i just recalibrated it about a month ago right after nute burn and before it all started to improve using only water. i can calibrate again but i feel like i did it correctly, the numbers matched the respective solution.

on the next grow my process is going to be crack the seed in water (i'm 99.9% successful on that, move it to a rooter in a dome (also 99.9%) when the roots are coming out of the rooter but before they stretch too bad i will move them to solo cups using a seedling soil i bought and i guess in that i will use only water for 3-4 weeks maybe more depending on if that thing grows like i see in all the other pics and vids. then i will move to a 3 gal pot with ffof and continue water only for another 3-4 weeks. i will use the microbes and humis per Bernies advice as well. have my pH at 6.5

Recalibrate expensive meters at least once a week, cheap meters every use

It's not that you calibrated it correctly once and it's all set! you have to continually calibrate it!

that's why a lot of us buy more expensive meters so we know they're accurate without having to calibrate them every time we use them

Seedling or early veg doesn't matter; don't feed nutrients in Fox Farm ocean forest soil for a looong time

Starting in a seedling soil is probably a good idea

Rodger that! Thank you Beachwalker

I am going to ride this poor girl out see what happens. plan to start a new grew in about a 2 weeks. super excited with all the new knowledge. Thanks everyone for the help.

any suggestion on the meter? mine was $30. I need a ppm too. any suggestions there?

man time for a bowl, my brain hurts!

bluelab, milwaukee and apera are all good, ph and tds meters available

I use Apera meters

Idk I think you should feed a plant whenever it looks like it needs it ffof or not. Think about it, you water it and the water flows through the roots doesnt that water take nutrients with it, away from the roots. Maybe not tiny seedling but after the first set of leaves you can feed it, really lite on the ppms 0-50 or so. Microbes feed the plant and the plant feeds the microbes until that relationship gets going there is going to be a bit of a lag. And some readily available nutrients can fill that gap at any time. You just need to do it right, not a high ppm dosage. Just my 2cents on that.

I also dont think you need to calibrate a ph pen before every use. Once a month at most or when you see that things are off would you need to calibrate it. Seems like alot of calibration solution to me. And if you have to calibrate it that often its junk. get the drops, one drop in a little bit of water will tell you the ph

Hey buddy, kill the poor plant, re-fill the pot with fresh soil, leave top 3 inches of your pot empty, plant a new plant, mulch it with thick layer of wood chips(pieces of actual dead branches and leaves, not bark chips or other stuff), put just a small handfull of chicken manure or worm castings on the wood chips, go out and find 2-3 worms, put them in your pot, add wood chips whenever you see its getting broken down and mulch is thinning out, water only with no chlorine water, don't add anything other than wood chips to the pot. You don't need to ph anything, you won't even need to water it that often. Just control the urge of "making something better" and watch your plant grow perfectly. And at the end, you will be enjoying the best weed someone could ever grow, because you can't make the nature better.

You can(and should) re-use that soil, don't remove any roots, don't disturb the soil at all, just plant some stuff in it like flowers, clovers, whatever you want. Trim them in, cover with more mulch and handfull of manure or worm castings(which is just manure) . Open up the area you wanna plant in, plant your seed(or transplant it) when seedling gets tall enough just push the mulch back. You won't be having problems anymore, no pests, no ph issues, no nute deficencies or burns, no chasing your tail. Just do what nature did for 6000 years(atleast that we recorded) and get out the way. We are not gonna make it better, it is not possible. You can't play chess with 6000 year old dude, just give him the board and watch him play.

3d420 said:

flush:
i search for the "why" something is happening. then as a newbie i have to evaluate which of the 80 reasons could be causing my issues and try to react from that. i have had experience with hot soil and was figuring the nitrogen toxicity was from the soil since i am not giving any extra nutes. a lot of sites say this is the problem, the solution is give it less nitrogen....how do you give it less when your aren't giving it anymore. haha.
12/12:
this is an auto, i feel very under the clock, this girl is small given its been growing for 8 weeks. it says 100 day cycle for the strain, so i feel like its way behind
low pH:
i read the pH is 6.0 maybe it is incorrect. you see 5.5, 5.8, 6.0, ff chart comes with it's own suggestions, hahah i really don't know what it is supposed to be i guess

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Autos need at least 18 hours of light min

I will add check the temp of the soil . Is this in a basement on a concrete floor ? Ffs yes re calibrate ph meter whenever it's off. My tap is pretty consistantly 7.2 I use that as my 1st test if meter says 7 or 7.4 i recalibrate sometimes daily other times monthly .

tent is in basement on a plastic pallet (raised about 4" off floor) I have a small heater inside the tent to maintain temps. pot is sitting in a pot liner but elevated to allow run off but not resoak.

you can kind of see it in my set up pic on page 1

Bernie420 said:

Idk I think you should feed a plant whenever it looks like it needs it ffof or not. Think about it, you water it and the water flows through the roots doesnt that water take nutrients with it, away from the roots. Maybe not tiny seedling but after the first set of leaves you can feed it, really lite on the ppms 0-50 or so. Microbes feed the plant and the plant feeds the microbes until that relationship gets going there is going to be a bit of a lag. And some readily available nutrients can fill that gap at any time. You just need to do it right, not a high ppm dosage. Just my 2cents on that.

I also dont think you need to calibrate a ph pen before every use. Once a month at most or when you see that things are off would you need to calibrate it. Seems like alot of calibration solution to me. And if you have to calibrate it that often its junk. get the drops, one drop in a little bit of water will tell you the ph

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I ordered the microbes, thanks for the recommendation

Microbes are already in the air you breathe. That’s like ordering water from Amazon.

Beneficial Indigenous Microbes

Dude I don't want to offend you but if your having this many issues this early into a grow especially as a seedling you need to do some more research before starting again. Looks like you spent alot on equipment but not enough time on research. Seedling as basically self growing the colydons (whatever those round leaves are called) have enough energy to start to plant off.. so if u mess it up that early it's user error
Here's my auto at 43 days old 1 week into flower