Advanced Stealth Hydro Bubbeponics Thread

HomeGrownHairy

Well-Known Member
When you come home and you find that you need to raise the PH in your bubbleponics system, how do you do it?(This is a question to everyone, not to my self)
If I used a dry pH powder, I dissolve it first. I use liquid pH down (General Hydroponics brand) and add it, in small amounts, directly to the tank. I leave it in about an hour and check my pH again. If it's between 5.5 & 6.5, I leave it alone. Don't chase the pH as it will ALWAYS vary.
 

Mr.Bob Saget

Active Member
First, do not try to keep it at 5.8 or at any exact point, just try to keep it between 5.5 and 6.5, and they will do fine. Adjust it once daily.

Come home, test it, and find (for example) that it is 6.9, too high. Follow the instructions on your pH Down, remove onequart to one half gallon of water and add it back with pH adjsuted water. If you removed a half gallon, make a new half gallon read 5.2 to 5.5, and add it to the tank, and then the tank will be close to 6.2 to 6.5, and that is fine. You can wait 4 to 8 hours and do it again, but do not adjust it a lot at one time.
Never add the UP or Down directly to the tank. You could really mess up doing that, that way.

Start at Post # 38, page 4 here and read up on pH:
Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics-DWC Tutorial

you'll be a pH expert then.
I'm using the full Fox Farm line, I have never had to add PH down, its seems it is always pH up. I have always used distilled water. I use a constant pH/EC meter. I keep the pH between 5.5-6.2, this seems to be with daily additions of pH up.

I have been adding the adjustment straight into the tank, and at times it might require a few ML to my 6 gallons of water. I have noticed leaf burn, drying of fan leafs in the closest plant to where i do the additions (empty net cup cut out), but not limited to just that plant at this point.

As of a week ago, I have been adding the pH up with a couple of cups of distilled water, think that would help dilute.

In earlier post in this thread, I was trying to figure out what was cause the leaf burn, I was thinking that it was root rot, do to to much light in the tank, or it was adding the pH adjustment incorrectly.

Thoughts?
 

chkn915

Member
Hey guys i was wondering if you give your plants 48 hours of darkness before harvesting or what. My trichomes are over 90 % cloudy white but i cant find any amber trichomes. This is the end of the 10th week flowering also? Should i harvest this weekend?
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
I'm using the full Fox Farm line, I have never had to add PH down, its seems it is always pH up. I have always used distilled water. I use a constant pH/EC meter. I keep the pH between 5.5-6.2, this seems to be with daily additions of pH up.
Between 5.6 and 6.5 is OK, try to average 5.9.

I have been adding the adjustment straight into the tank,

BAD,WRONG

and at times it might require a few ML to my 6 gallons of water. I have noticed leaf burn, drying of fan leafs in the closest plant to where i do the additions (empty net cup cut out), but not limited to just that plant at this point.

As of a week ago, I have been adding the pH up with a couple of cups of distilled water, think that would help dilute.

In earlier post in this thread, I was trying to figure out what was cause the leaf burn, I was thinking that it was root rot, do to to much light in the tank, or it was adding the pH adjustment incorrectly.

Thoughts?

to adjust pH, drain a half gallon out, add pH down to a new half gallon.
If you use the SH pH down, use 1/4 level teaspoon at a time, for a tank of 6 gallons, to lower it 1.0

leaf burn was nute burna nd pH down burn I guess
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Hey guys i was wondering if you give your plants 48 hours of darkness before harvesting or what. My trichomes are over 90 % cloudy white but i cant find any amber trichomes. This is the end of the 10th week flowering also? Should i harvest this weekend?

IF it is Indica, I would havest soon. I prefer to go by the color of the trichs and use my microscope.
I do not do that 48 hour of darkness. I would rather spend those hours GROWING my buds. I do not see the need to do it. It's a matter of opinion.

Look at this:
Increasing Potency, GROWTH, Yield and Trichomes


This is something all growers obviously are interested in. Now the methods,and facts I'm going to list I know will be scrutinized and criticised by some, and discredited by others, which is completely fine with me.
Some of these methods come across as pretty controversial, but they all have been researched and tested by people I know,or have talked to,or have tried personally myself.
with that said lets get to the good stuff
Basics
1) Plant health- It's obvious,but important to state having a healthy plant will produce more trichomes. I try not to throw any plants into flowering unless there all healthy and mature,,plants will not reach there full potential if they are sick or immature. So try to resolve all health issues prior to flipping to 12/12
2) Cool room- having your temp lower in flowering will be producing more resin, trichs.
3) Genetics-(I will talk about this a little later),but obviously you want the best genetics possible to be able to have more potential.......... Got to be Indica

Now the spooky advise:

How to increase Trichomes, Production, Yield

1) Very low humidity in BLOOMING- I think most people know that dryer conditions are more condusive to resin production. From my experience and from talking to other people in the industry,,its good to have extremely low humidity DURING FLOWERING, NOT IN VEG
Try to shoot for 15% humidifity in flowering,,keeping it nice and dry
HAVE extreme temps, within range, like 80s in day, 60s in night.
NO MISTING
2) UVB lighting- there has been a lot of research and tests that indicate that exposing BUDS to UVB lighting in flowering increases trichome production. Naturally in parts of the world with high levels of UVB like Afghanastan or kush valley or Thailand have high levels of UVB in there atmosphere. Its believed the leaves makes a "Sun scream" to protect from the uvb. that sun screen people say are trichomes. Adding UVB lighting in flowering DOES increase trichome production if done correctly
*** UVB lighting is dangerous, it can cause skin cancer,and can turn you blind. You cant see the light it omits, but if your under it for 10-20 min you will get a sunburn. As long as the UVB is on in your grow area, you don't walk in while its on. As long as you do this everything is fine. I recommend you do from 6-8 hours in flowering starting around 2nd-3rd week of flowering. Start 1 hour a day and gradually increase to 6-8 hours,,,starting in the middle of its 12 hour cycle. Keep the UVB at least 2 feet away from your canopy. Get the reptile lights,,there cheap..they come in .5 and .10 uvb .10 is better obviously,,and they make special lamps to hold them,if you want a reflector for it. Make sure to rig the uvb to a seperate timer,to go on 6 hour into the light period. Please use caution with this,and dont go in there if the uvb is on

3) Intentional Stress- When your approaching the end of your flowering cycle,you start to stress the plant out. When plants THINK they Are dying ,the only thing they know how to do is grow or try to reproduce. if you start to stress them it is believed by many that the plant will try to get stickier in order to do be able to catch more pollen from a flowering male.
When you do this,there are some methods I use,and some things to keep in mind
**Never do this for more then 14 days before your harvest. The key here is to stress them out just enough, to not give them time to turn hermaphrodite on you. You have to estimate when you think you might have 14 days left,start and harvest no more then 14 days after. - kick the plant pots everyday,shake the plant a little everyday, give it a few minutes of HIGH FAN Air..like a wind storm.
- take little thumb tacks, drive them into every branch on the plant right below the last node. Do not break anything,,or drive big things. Just a tack into every branch.you're not damaging,,your just pissing her off a little.
TWISTING- hold one part of the large stem between a thumb and finger, and one inch higher, hold one part of the large stem between a thumb and finger, and TWIST it, to damage it.

Take your fignernail and scrap a piece of skin (bark) off, the size of a penny on the larger stems.

- I know a lot of people like to do 24 hours of darkness,at harvest,,try 2 days of darkness before u chop,or even mess with the light schedule a little,,i know this seems crazy but it works.


YouTube - Super Cropping...

Supper Cropping Post #13092
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Please visit the BubbleHeads and consider joining us. We all use that system.


And enter the $50 Contest this week, ask a BubbleHead.

Bubblehead Contest


Join up with us.
Here is a new thread on how to set up that system:
Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics-DWC Tutorial

SpongeBob Squarepants grows hydroponically!

He grows with tiny bubbles, just like you and me!




We ARE Family,
We are The BubbleHeads!

If you want to learn from the greats,
PurpDaddy, Mostly Crazy, Bongtok4u,, db297, JonnyBtreed, Southern Grower, HomeGrown Hairy, ACGrower, MajPat, tSunami13, BlueyBong, Paranoid420, LongHornFan, SmokeNchoke, hubebaba, peterman990, xpac7007, chnk915, and hundreds of other skilled bubbleponic growers, then learn from THE BUBLEHEADS.

If you can teach DWC and Bubbleponics, am willing to help the new members here, and want to be part of a family, then join us.


Show your logo, show your pride, and show your intelligence and ability to do what most people can not do and that is grow Hydroponically with Feeder Tubes and a Water Pump!

We're not Dirt Bags!
We are The BubbleHeads!!!!!

THE BUBLEHEAD GANG!

We are NOT DirtBags!!! We can grow in water!

Right click the BubbleHead Logo, save it to your computer, then upload it to your signature.

By adding this bubblehead Logo to your signature, and claiming membership to the BubbleHeads, you agree to be very helpful to Newbies with DWC and Bubbleponics with patience and caring and make all other BubbleHeads proud to be a member of the gang. If you do not know the answer, go get someone else from the BubbleHead Gang to help.
Send this invitation to anyone you like and be sure that they know DWC and Bubbleponics and are willing to help newbies.

May the Bubble Force be with us all.
God Bless our Chief BubbleHead, Mostly Crazy!


The BubbleHeads are dedicated to helping others learn to grow in water, simple, fast and easy.



Helpful links:

BubbleHead Logo Post # 10672

CFL Tutorial -

What is Bubbleponics Post # 9835

8 Step Recovery Post # 9838

Start Nutes - Drain and Replinish # 10395

10 Days, 12 days, 15 days, 20 days Post # 9

Temps, Humidity Post # 8491

HARVESTING CURING Post # 6623

Roseman and purpdaddys guide for my Bubbleponics setup from Stealth Hydroponic

Roseman's DIY Bubbleponics-DWC Tutorial
BUBBLEHEADS know how to grow!
 

chkn915

Member
IF it is Indica, I would havest soon. I prefer to go by the color of the trichs and use my microscope.
I do not do that 48 hour of darkness. I would rather spend those hours GROWING my buds. I do not see the need to do it. It's a matter of opinion.

Look at this:
Increasing Potency, GROWTH, Yield and Trichomes


This is something all growers obviously are interested in. Now the methods,and facts I'm going to list I know will be scrutinized and criticised by some, and discredited by others, which is completely fine with me.
Some of these methods come across as pretty controversial, but they all have been researched and tested by people I know,or have talked to,or have tried personally myself.
with that said lets get to the good stuff
Basics
1) Plant health- It's obvious,but important to state having a healthy plant will produce more trichomes. I try not to throw any plants into flowering unless there all healthy and mature,,plants will not reach there full potential if they are sick or immature. So try to resolve all health issues prior to flipping to 12/12
2) Cool room- having your temp lower in flowering will be producing more resin, trichs.
3) Genetics-(I will talk about this a little later),but obviously you want the best genetics possible to be able to have more potential.......... Got to be Indica

Now the spooky advise:

How to increase Trichomes, Production, Yield

1) Very low humidity in BLOOMING- I think most people know that dryer conditions are more condusive to resin production. From my experience and from talking to other people in the industry,,its good to have extremely low humidity DURING FLOWERING, NOT IN VEG
Try to shoot for 15% humidifity in flowering,,keeping it nice and dry
HAVE extreme temps, within range, like 80s in day, 60s in night.
NO MISTING
2) UVB lighting- there has been a lot of research and tests that indicate that exposing BUDS to UVB lighting in flowering increases trichome production. Naturally in parts of the world with high levels of UVB like Afghanastan or kush valley or Thailand have high levels of UVB in there atmosphere. Its believed the leaves makes a "Sun scream" to protect from the uvb. that sun screen people say are trichomes. Adding UVB lighting in flowering DOES increase trichome production if done correctly
*** UVB lighting is dangerous, it can cause skin cancer,and can turn you blind. You cant see the light it omits, but if your under it for 10-20 min you will get a sunburn. As long as the UVB is on in your grow area, you don't walk in while its on. As long as you do this everything is fine. I recommend you do from 6-8 hours in flowering starting around 2nd-3rd week of flowering. Start 1 hour a day and gradually increase to 6-8 hours,,,starting in the middle of its 12 hour cycle. Keep the UVB at least 2 feet away from your canopy. Get the reptile lights,,there cheap..they come in .5 and .10 uvb .10 is better obviously,,and they make special lamps to hold them,if you want a reflector for it. Make sure to rig the uvb to a seperate timer,to go on 6 hour into the light period. Please use caution with this,and dont go in there if the uvb is on

3) Intentional Stress- When your approaching the end of your flowering cycle,you start to stress the plant out. When plants THINK they Are dying ,the only thing they know how to do is grow or try to reproduce. if you start to stress them it is believed by many that the plant will try to get stickier in order to do be able to catch more pollen from a flowering male.
When you do this,there are some methods I use,and some things to keep in mind
**Never do this for more then 14 days before your harvest. The key here is to stress them out just enough, to not give them time to turn hermaphrodite on you. You have to estimate when you think you might have 14 days left,start and harvest no more then 14 days after. - kick the plant pots everyday,shake the plant a little everyday, give it a few minutes of HIGH FAN Air..like a wind storm.
- take little thumb tacks, drive them into every branch on the plant right below the last node. Do not break anything,,or drive big things. Just a tack into every branch.you're not damaging,,your just pissing her off a little.
TWISTING- hold one part of the large stem between a thumb and finger, and one inch higher, hold one part of the large stem between a thumb and finger, and TWIST it, to damage it.

Take your fignernail and scrap a piece of skin (bark) off, the size of a penny on the larger stems.

- I know a lot of people like to do 24 hours of darkness,at harvest,,try 2 days of darkness before u chop,or even mess with the light schedule a little,,i know this seems crazy but it works.


YouTube - Super Cropping...

Supper Cropping Post #13092
Thankemans Roseman. Im thinking i harvested the other plant a little early it said 55 days on the package. When you say 8 to 10 weeks, does that mean from the time you induced flowering or is that from the time you see the buds begin to grow? Im confused, all i know is my other buds smell like hay now and i dont want that to happen again!!:confused:
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Thankemans Roseman. Im thinking i harvested the other plant a little early it said 55 days on the package. When you say 8 to 10 weeks, does that mean from the time you induced flowering or is that from the time you see the buds begin to grow? Im confused, all i know is my other buds smell like hay now and i dont want that to happen again!!:confused:

I start counting from day one of 12/12.

Buds NOT cured often smell like hay or grass.
 

chkn915

Member
I start counting from day one of 12/12.

Buds NOT cured often smell like hay or grass.

Oh Ok, well this morning i took a couple of little buds so i could look at the trichs and i dont see any amber id say there mostly cloudy, milk cloudy and they have a nice big head on them. The growth has slowed on them for about the last week and 1/2\. The one bud that i took was a small one, and it weighed almost 1/2 oz by itself after it was trimmed but not dried.
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
That is the subject of great debate on here but I count from the time I go 12/12.

As far as your all cloudy trichs, That's your call as to the type of high you want. Right now you are probably at the combo head/body with a lean toward the head. I cut at 30% amber and the rest cloudy with a few new arrivals clear but at this time it's your call and depends on the type of high you want. You have about a 10 day window from mostly done to overdone for most strains. That's why most breeders say things like 8-10 weeks.
 

chkn915

Member
That is the subject of great debate on here but I count from the time I go 12/12.

As far as your all cloudy trichs, That's your call as to the type of high you want. Right now you are probably at the combo head/body with a lean toward the head. I cut at 30% amber and the rest cloudy with a few new arrivals clear but at this time it's your call and depends on the type of high you want. You have about a 10 day window from mostly done to overdone for most strains. That's why most breeders say things like 8-10 weeks.
I think i will wait till this weekend and today i will do a little bit of the stressing techniques, Thanks Roseman and MC!!!:eyesmoke:
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
I'd tell you to watch it like a hawk but you are probably doing that already. If it were me I'd try the stressing and turn the lights out on them until you harvest. Make them think the world is coming to an end. I've done the lights out for the last 3 grows and they do harden up a bit but they may have done that anyway but it makes me feel good to be proactive sometimes.
 

chkn915

Member
I'd tell you to watch it like a hawk but you are probably doing that already. If it were me I'd try the stressing and turn the lights out on them until you harvest. Make them think the world is coming to an end. I've done the lights out for the last 3 grows and they do harden up a bit but they may have done that anyway but it makes me feel good to be proactive sometimes.
I think i will be doing that. Ill keep the lights on today and do a res change and tonight when the lights go out they will stay out till Sat 7-8 a.m. Roseman says he doesnt turn the lights out, what is the purpose of doing this? Oh yeah the big fan leaves are starting to yellow and die also, does this just mean the plant is using its reserved food?
 

MostlyCrazy

New Member
We all do it a little different mostly by trial and error with the knowledge we can fix what we break and know what we see when we see it.

The purpose of the lights out is to have the plant think things are coming to an end and they better finish ripening up ( like a girl getting ready for a date). Little do they know that no matter what they do there ain't no males around so they can get as sticky as they want to catch a stray pollen. It's just another form of stressing the plant in reality. I do it at the end of the grow so the plants won't have time to hermie before I cut no matter what I do to them.
 

HomeGrownHairy

Well-Known Member
I'm using the full Fox Farm line, I have never had to add PH down, its seems it is always pH up. I have always used distilled water. I use a constant pH/EC meter. I keep the pH between 5.5-6.2, this seems to be with daily additions of pH up.

I have been adding the adjustment straight into the tank, and at times it might require a few ML to my 6 gallons of water. I have noticed leaf burn, drying of fan leafs in the closest plant to where i do the additions (empty net cup cut out), but not limited to just that plant at this point.

As of a week ago, I have been adding the pH up with a couple of cups of distilled water, think that would help dilute.

In earlier post in this thread, I was trying to figure out what was cause the leaf burn, I was thinking that it was root rot, do to to much light in the tank, or it was adding the pH adjustment incorrectly.

Thoughts?
I have FF as well. You need to mix it well with 1 gal of pH'd water before you add it. The FF always drops the pH, especially if you're using bottled water. With tap water, it's more stable.
 

HomeGrownHairy

Well-Known Member
That is the subject of great debate on here but I count from the time I go 12/12.

As far as your all cloudy trichs, That's your call as to the type of high you want. Right now you are probably at the combo head/body with a lean toward the head. I cut at 30% amber and the rest cloudy with a few new arrivals clear but at this time it's your call and depends on the type of high you want. You have about a 10 day window from mostly done to overdone for most strains. That's why most breeders say things like 8-10 weeks.
I too, start counting the day I go 12/12.
 
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