Adding extra nitrogren during flowering?

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
Do you ever taper off your nutes uncle ben, or do you try to keep them green until harvest as some do?

I know they start to naturally yellow as time draws nearer to harvest, but do you try to keep them green?





I've two parts of this certain arguement: 1. I heard that you don't want any nutes being taken up towards the end of harvest

AND 2. I've heard that they need the nutes even moreso towards the end..



whats your stance on that? could you please debunk whichever is incorrect for me? I totally dig your way of growing, as I read more of your posts I see you learn somewhat like me... I'm the same way with math as I am growing, I would like to find out what the GOAL of the formula is, rather than learn JUST the formula!


Thanks for the time dude!
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Do you ever taper off your nutes uncle ben, or do you try to keep them green until harvest as some do?

I know they start to naturally yellow as time draws nearer to harvest, but do you try to keep them green?





I've two parts of this certain arguement: 1. I heard that you don't want any nutes being taken up towards the end of harvest

AND 2. I've heard that they need the nutes even moreso towards the end..



whats your stance on that? could you please debunk whichever is incorrect for me? I totally dig your way of growing, as I read more of your posts I see you learn somewhat like me... I'm the same way with math as I am growing, I would like to find out what the GOAL of the formula is, rather than learn JUST the formula!


Thanks for the time dude!
For the best production, keep 'em green and healthy until harvest.
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
For the best production, keep 'em green and healthy until harvest.
Will do. Thanks uncle ben!



Now I pull out my nutrient bottles, and it appears the boost as more nitrogen than the grow....

So i guess I'll be adding more boost than grow :lol:

it looks like the NPK of the bottles are as follows (for you uncle ben if your still reading)

B.C Bloom: 1-4-7

B.C Boost: 3-0-2

B.C Grow: 1-3-6

Thinking watering tomorrow with:

15 mL per gallon 'boost'. 4mL BC 'grow'. 5mL BC bloom... then thrive alive & magical...

Then next watering, plain water twice, see how they react, and then probably slowly work onto the bloom nutes into the schedule


thanks all let me if know if any of that sounds bad. They are starting to stretch a bit worse, and I can almost see the plant pulling the N from the leaves as they get slightly yellowed






this is them today

 

redeyez420

Member
Also, I can't see where 2.5 ml/gallon of ANY of the oil company products will have any affect one way or the other. If you study the GA, you're only getting 2.5% N. Any greening up is probably due to the relatively high Mg and Fe. Without sufficient N, at any time, you're gonna see some stunting and foliage issues. http://www.technaflora.com/products.php?product=19


so how much do you think we should add?per gallon, lets say if the n is 2% in the nutrient like that product^^^
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I don't know how much you should add, it's the ratio that counts. Again, if you want to stay green until harvest, you need to boost the N a little and those products won't do it if I'm getting the NPK values right, which seems too high in K and too low in N.

Good luck,
UB
 

dlively11

Well-Known Member
I do 75% bloom and 25% veg the first week of bloom then go to 100% bloom nutes. Any and all light leaves are nice and green by then and the plants take off. I am in hydro so things are going faster. I guess if I" was in soil I'd go to week 2. I personally wouldnt go more then 50% veg nutes once you are in bloom. I think it would hurt yield. Bloom nutes still have N in them and will get your plants green. Assuming you are using a good nutrient of course. If they are not there is something else going on. I'll add that mine stay green until harvest as well.

35 days into bloom on a 9 week strain . Short and bushy because its in a SOG 32 plants per light.

 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Bloom nutes still have N in them and will get your plants green. Assuming you are using a good nutrient of course. If they are not there is something else going on. I'll add that mine stay green until harvest as well.

35 days into bloom on a 9 week strain . Short and bushy because its in a SOG 32 plants per light.

Not enough N to sustain foliage. All oil company bloom foods will block the uptake of N and micros. What do they look like at week 8 or 10? Here's the bottom line....learn the concept of nutrient antagonism well Sr. Verde, and you'll be light years ahead of your peers: http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

The typical ratio of a 1-4-7 is ridiculous, but that's what folks expect in a "bloom" food, so the vendors give them what they think they want......"cause they say that K and P produces lotssssssssss of blooms!" An excess of K for example will antagonize the uptake of N, Ca, and Mg, all very important elements regarding plant health and production.
 

dlively11

Well-Known Member
My plants stay just as green at end of week 9 actually. I use GH Maxibloom powder (5-15-14) along with Floralicious Plus as my base . I switched over to these nutes some time ago and am very happy with them. Happier then I was with any of the much more expensive hydroponic nutes AN and H&G included. Those were both a rip off at more then 2X the price. Not as good of results as my cheap ass powder to boot which makes me happy. $14 for a 2.2 lb bag sold everywhere I shop. Floraliciou Plus is $170 for a gallon but it treats almost 4000 gallons.
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
I don't know how much you should add, it's the ratio that counts. Again, if you want to stay green until harvest, you need to boost the N a little and those products won't do it if I'm getting the NPK values right, which seems too high in K and too low in N.

Good luck,
UB
You were correct uncle ben, apparently my stoned self assumed wrong for the bottles! It's actually the 'Boost' thats higher in N, which you are supposed to add during flowering and veg. So I guess it works out! The other formulas are relatively low in N. I just fed them this morning, I felt good about it, I feel like they will be doing better... I will be posting pictures here in 5 daysish when some we can start seeing some results
 
Although this post is old it can never hurt to add to it. What drives your crop is the intensity of lighting. Everything revolves around what your plants get for light. In a high performance grow with high ppfd 1500-2100, temps in the high 80s VPD and LST on point, CO2 levels 1500ppm, aggressive air movement over, under and through canopy to help force transpire the biomass into overdrive, hydroponic reservoir super oxygenated, temp kept at 73 degrees, growing in straight hydroton, ebb and flow with conical bucket bottoms flood and drain times kept to 15 minutes and dialed in, that will determine your EC strength. Now a few days before you trigger flowering, your going to want your canopy dark green almost black, boardering nitrogen toxicity, maybe even having fan leaves exhibiting the "claw". This helps when you ramp up the ppfd to such extremes as double or triple what the normal ppfd people use for flowering (750-900) is normal I use 1500-2100ppfd. Why you boost your EC before flower to get the canopy and biomass nice and dark is because it helps ward off the extreme stress of the light intensity that can cause light and heat stress and bleaching of buds, you do have to give your system and roots a nice warm soak of water to flush excess salts every reservoir change and sometimes give them a day of just water to recuperate from the high EC feeding regimen, but by doing this, it will carry your crop through week 6 when most of the bud development happens and weeks 7 to the chop you get absolutely incredible size buds. You have to have the right genetics and play around with the parameters for the strains you grow but when it's dialed in, it's magical.
 
Top