Haha well you made some money and got more efficient lights. Can't complain about that. Did you do a full grow with the 3500k. I'm thinking about going that route but idk how much less, if any, they yield vs the 3000k.Naah man, i sold them, and i tool for myself CREE AB's... Those were 3500k
Running with LPC-40-1400 and fans are controled by LPV-20-12
Kapton tape. Supra uses it and I've been using it with no problem after being a skeptic. Just make sure the surface is smooth, clean and you use the thinnest layer of thermal paste though I guess the Artic's should be enough. The bond of the thermal paste to the aluminum is what keeps it together. The Kapton keeps it in place. That's according to Supra.
1x #4 drill bit
All those are good choices. I also found this : LPF-90-42. But its looking like I'm just gonna run with the LPC-60-1400 this go around. Just to get my feet wet and to keep cost low. Is the LPV-20-12 the best way to go to run the fan? Or is there a simpler route for just one fan?
remeber, that LPV is 12V and you could stick more and more fans in future
So Kapton tape and thermal paste it is. Thanks I remember seeing supra using it with his CXAs but wasn't sure on how reliable it was. I was looking at the PK3 but there are different types. Which one is the best to use? And what do you mean by standardizing COBs?
Thanks on the info man. But I'm gonna use the thermal paste and kapton tape to see how that goes. Just gotta figure out which PK3 to use.
Sounds good to me. I'm sure I have a plug that matches those specs laying around here somewhere. Is there a thread on here that shows how everything is connected and wired up?
Yeah I was thinking it could be used for multiple fans. I'll keep that in mind when I get around to making a multi Vero setup.
i use the tape method as well on some Vero 10's and hooked up 13's last night with this method for testing.....
So if I was to drill and tap would I need any specialty tools other than a drill and the items you listed in an earlier response? I've read people breaking the tap off in the heatsink. Is that easily avoidable?
Yes, absolutely avoidable, especially with oil, patience and a slip clutch
I'll check out that video and that thread you posted. Thanks. Got my Vero in today. Now I'm waiting on the rest of the gear. Getting closer.Yes, absolutely avoidable, especially with oil, patience and a slip clutch
The tapping process is a direct result of your hole drillin'.....get your pilot hole straight and tapping takes seconds for these M3 diamaters. Drilling is the tedious part of the process.
If the tap starts to jam, back it up 1 -2 turns to clear waste and start again, this is where a slip clutch is nice....imho.....
Most drills these days have them. I use a 9.6v Black & Decker cordless with a slip, $20 special....
The community, all put together a Tapping Thread a bit ago, check it out for more of the procedure.....
http://rollitup.org/t/a-thread-on-tapping.856745/
I use a level on my drill to get straight holes, but a drill guide or tapping block can also help, especially if using a tap wrench. but either could be used with a drill as well.
If you search youtube with Cree CXA3070, you can find GreengenesGarden, where he has a great little vid on "get er' done" hand tapping done with a drill.....good little vid, except again I recommend the Spiral Flute not Spiral tip, that is important.....Spiral flutes are also good for beginners who make oval holes,they slack out a lot of skipping when you pick up an edge. Another way to jam up too, so this is a plus.
