A Tale of The Tape HPA vs 21st Century Flood and Drain

Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
PetFlora said:
Interested to watch. Please start a thread.

You can move it to the center by simply cutting the length of tubing you need and couple it together from the connector mounted in the side. You can do the same with it to raise/lower the mist head.

Consider replacing that lid, or plugging those holes and put one in the middle. My 2 are off center, and the back sides of the roots don't fluff. (visualize big tits, flat ass). I think my mist is Fd up because of this
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I think the point is he is intentionally trying to offset the netpots opposite the nozzles for the experiment. But I agree that he will find out the roots won't be happy that way. Doesn't hurt a bit to see what happens though.
 
Fonzarelli

Fonzarelli

Active Member
PetFlora said:
Interested to watch. Please start a thread.

You can move it to the center by simply cutting the length of tubing you need and couple it together from the connector mounted in the side. You can do the same with it to raise/lower the mist head.

Consider replacing that lid, or plugging those holes and put one in the middle. My 2 are off center, and the back sides of the roots don't fluff. (visualize big tits, flat ass). I think my mist is Fd up because of this
Click to expand...
oh shit, i meant to post this in the other "thread". The all in one thread.
 
Fonzarelli

Fonzarelli

Active Member
Trichy Bastard said:
I think the point is he is intentionally trying to offset the netpots opposite the nozzles for the experiment. But I agree that he will find out the roots won't be happy that way. Doesn't hurt a bit to see what happens though.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm trying to see if the indirect vs. direct hit will make a difference. The way I had it set up before there wasn't much indirect mist hit at all.
 
polyarcturus

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
okay, i understand now. i just had a thought occur i knoe this isnt HPA but its aero. could you perhaps run a sytem similar to a flooded tube situation but rather than fill the tube make more of a water wall, and inside/underneath the water running down the wall adding several ultrasonic diaphragms to generate mist.

but then again i understand the downside to the small micron mist tho.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Fonzarelli said:
Yeah, I'm trying to see if the indirect vs. direct hit will make a difference. The way I had it set up before there wasn't much indirect mist hit at all.
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Another cool benefit of the articulating mist heads I buy from Reptile Basics is they swivel 360^s and rotate ~ 120^s. This saves drilling a lot of extra holes in the pod
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
polyarcturus said:
okay, i understand now. i just had a thought occur i knoe this isnt HPA but its aero. could you perhaps run a sytem similar to a flooded tube situation but rather than fill the tube make more of a water wall, and inside/underneath the water running down the wall adding several ultrasonic diaphragms to generate mist.

but then again i understand the downside to the small micron mist tho.
Click to expand...
Though some would argue, it IS hpa, just sans accumulator + ancillaries

Someone sells a grow wall (saw it on Utoob). One side has rows of ~ 4" angled tubes, into which net pots with young plants/clones fit. The hollow space behind has a waterfall that runs the width of the wall. Nutes cascade down into the rez then back up to the water fall lip. They're pretty cool, but $$$$
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
PetFlora said:
Though some would argue, it IS hpa, just sans accumulator + ancillaries

Someone sells a grow wall (saw it on Utoob). One side has rows of ~ 4" angled tubes, into which net pots with young plants/clones fit. The hollow space behind has a waterfall that runs the width of the wall. Nutes cascade down into the rez then back up to the water fall lip. They're pretty cool, but $$$$
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Not that it matters, on top of being off topic, but I am just curious what you're smoking that you think a waterfall of nutes can be classified as "high pressure aero"- please share hehe :D

EDIT: maybe you meant "some would argue it is hpa, just sans accumulator and high pressure"? :D
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Almost done, ~ 7 days left. Been reducing nute ppms over the last few weeks. Now at 400, but with next rez change will drop to 200ppms.

The lack of white pistils is due to the soap soak in an attempt to kill the pesky spider mites. Alas it would need to be repeated every 3-4 days to eradicate. Instead I have been cutting off the infested fan leaves.

Still looking for a proper duster to dust DE, which would be much more effective and not burn the pistils

First pic is of all three plants to show the wide range of pheno expression from the same F1 cross

Pic 2 is almost twice the size of it's hpa counterpart, with twice the lower branch colas. Pic 3-8 are all of Big Girl F 1. I took a couple clones of her to do one last A/B hpa v my DIY 21st Century F & D.

IMG_1022.jpgIMG_1023.jpgIMG_1024.jpgIMG_1025.jpgIMG_1026.jpgIMG_1027.jpgIMG_1028.jpgIMG_1029.jpg

Pics of the revised F & D system using lp mist heads. PVC is not glued as I am constantly developing it, but it doesn't come apart when using a low pressure pump, so no need to glue. In this set up I drilled a hole in the pod but that's not necessary, you can increase the length of the Riser (from the pump) so that it goes up and over the side wall

IMG_1030.jpgIMG_1031.jpgIMG_1032.jpg
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Trichy Bastard said:
Not that it matters, on top of being off topic, but I am just curious what you're smoking that you think a waterfall of nutes can be classified as "high pressure aero"- please share hehe :D

EDIT: maybe you meant "some would argue it is hpa, just sans accumulator and high pressure"? :D
Click to expand...
Who's smokin what around here.

Topic #1 my kit is hpa
Topic # 2 Waterfall is a response to Poly post #284 (okay, i understand now. i just had a thought occur; i know this isnt HPA but its aero. could you perhaps run a sytem similar to a flooded tube situation but rather than fill the tube make more of a water wall, and inside/underneath the water running down the wall adding several ultrasonic diaphragms to generate mist.

but then again i understand the downside to the small micron mist tho.
 
Mohican

Mohican

Well-Known Member
Hi PetFlora - Sorry it took so long! Subbed!

I cant wait for this Malawi to finish so I can try a better method or try this again with my hard earned knowledge. :)


Is it OK if I post a pic on your thread?


Cheers,
Mo
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I cut the light schedule to 10 hours a few days ago.

21st Century F & D

Today I increased the dry cycle from 20 minutes (flushing) to 40 minutes. Nute ppm now < 200.

HPA

As I am within days of harvest, I don't have much time to lock down proper w/d cycles. Still not getting many RHs. I can let the hpa go a while, it is not where near finished so will just harvest Big Girl F 1

I had cut dry cycle back to 12 minutes. Is it too wet? I cut it to 6 sec. Then I decided to remove 2/4 mist heads this morning. This leaves one nozzle on opposite sides of the pod; one is aimed across the back side the other the front side. Just checked, roots. There was one minute+ before pump goes on and the roots were a bit too dry, so I lowered the dry cycle to 11:15.

Also, as I am within days of harvest I thought it was a good idea to review harvesting/curing techniques. This sounds logical

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=156237 which I haven't tried yet:

The temperature and the humidity must be constantly controlled and adjusted, and the air exchange exactly calibrated to the desired volume. In an ideal situation, you want to let most of the moisture evaporate from the bud in the first 3 days, and then the process should slow down. In the first three days, a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius and a relative humidity of 55% will ensure that the buds get to roughly 30-40% water content. From this moment on, the temperature should drop a few degrees down to 18 Celsius and the relative humidity should rise to 60% to slow down the drying process. This allows the chlorophyll and other substances to leave the buds through evaporation with the water. If the drying is too fast the chlorophyll will stay, and the smoke will have a bitterer taste, and a green aftertaste. The volume of air exchanged in the room is also critical. Do not exceed 10% of the total volume every hour, or it will be too fast. Use a timer and an open/closed duct-fan to regulate air intake and extraction. In total, the drying process should take around 10 to 14 days for a perfect taste.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Mohican said:
A bud shot. It is now my avitar pic.
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Well I am of mixed emotions. You have the right gear (and eye) to take excellent photos, BUT, I'm afraid it will make my results look pathetic by comparison.

But anyone reading this will go to your thread IF you add your thread link to your signature. Click on your 'My Profile" for instructions.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
HPA

As you know I have been experimenting with mist times in my hpa pod. Yesterday morning I eliminated 2 heads, and monitored the roots every couple hours. I am able to look at the roots and tell whether I need more /less wet/dry times. However, this is also obvious by paying attention to the plant by feeling it, especially during budding. Two times now the buds lost their hardness when the roots weren't getting enough nutes for the allotted dry cycle.

F & D

Although Big Girl F 1 is ~ 5 days from harvest, I am seeing a few more oily leaves AND more tric production, although this is not happening on every cola.
 
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