A proper full melt dry sift tutorial. This time the right way.

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
I guess the trich head casing is made of wax, not cellulose Like I thought. That must be why it can melt. However, the trich stalks probably ARE mainly cellulose, along with minerals. That's why hash that looks "hairy" under a magnifying glass is pretty low grade and harsh. Also, squishing rosin must melt the trich head wax membranes, releasing the sweet sweet nectar.
 

nobodies

Active Member
Totally irrelevant question:

What is the high like of glandular heads compared to say just smoking some herb?
 

smink13

Well-Known Member
So when you guys do a sift, you then do what to it to make it look like wax? Apply how much heat and what method? Thanks!!
 

smink13

Well-Known Member
@hyroot any episodes that you may have bookmarked before your banning? The guys on the show are turds but I watched my first one the other day (ep 65) and actually learned a lot of terps from different perspectives so it's at least worth listening to to try and 'weed' out the bullshit from the good info.

Pun intended :)

I'm just trying to learn..
 

MnH

Well-Known Member
So when you guys do a sift, you then do what to it to make it look like wax? Apply how much heat and what method? Thanks!!
Finger heat. If the sift is pure it'll press out easily.. if not it won't.. Hyroot.. heavyicerx hates me too. Everyone jumped ship when everyone who used my method got popular then stopped giving credit to me.
 

MnH

Well-Known Member
Totally irrelevant question:

What is the high like of glandular heads compared to say just smoking some herb?
Really, really good.. lol... also, it's not as hard as you'd think to make.. it can be done in a few seconds..

M
 

Midnight109

Active Member
Hey, just got done reading the thread.... Soooo Glad I found it. Was getting ready to order some screens and was trying to figure out what sizes. There was no way I was going to pay what BM wants that is insane! Everyone has their own preferences, but I haven't seen anything looking as good as that from anyone else, without the hours of screwing with it... That aspect had almost made me not even want to get in to it.
Do you still sell them DSW?
Tried your website, and checked out your fb page, but you haven't been on it in awhile... even searched you real name, but no luck... Help!!!
 
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MnH

Well-Known Member
Hey, just got done reading the thread.... Soooo Glad I found it. Was getting ready to order some screens and was trying to figure out what sizes. There was no way I was going to pay what BM wants that is insane! Everyone has their own preferences, but I haven't seen anything looking as good as that from anyone else, without the hours of screwing with it... That aspect had almost made me not even want to get in to it.
Do you still sell them DSW?
Tried your website, and checked out your fb page, but you haven't been on it in awhile... even searched you real name, but no luck... Help!!!
I do indeed, check your private mailbox. Cheers, eh.

DsW
 

Pig4buzz

Well-Known Member
Ok haha.. wow what a damn weekend in Denver!!

DWG707.. My sizes.. are close to work bag status. Top screen closer to 220u.. bottom in the 190u area.. somewhere in there anyways.. not totally sure on the conversion.. close to 65-75lpi and 75-95lpi.. respectively..

WattSaver.. I do not card. Every picture you will ever see from me was made using 2 screens, 10-15 second sift. Basically what you are doing is trying to gently separate the long stalks from the round heads.. by simply moving the stuff around the top screen, what happens is the long stalks fall down.. they catch in the air and fall sideways.. they fall across the holes and by not bumping, vibrating, etc., you prevent them from 'dislodging' and falling through into your good stuff. When people shake and vibrate it helps this contaminant fall through.

Lpi is sometimes tricky.. the company I use makes custom lpi for me with 90 micron threads.. they are consistent with real lpi, as opposed to screens and meshes that are sometimes made with either thicker or thinner threads, which skew the lpi a hair. Obviously it will still work if it's close enough, but I really like the sizes I use and sell, I believe in them and I think the quality speaks for itself. Obviously the resin is only as good as you grow it, but even crap product leaf and such can be turned quickly and easily into very high quality, organic, truly solventless dry sift.

Cheers.

Also, thank you to Frenchy.. spent the entire flight back from Denver chatting it up over my method and hash in general.. dry sift, oil, ice wax.. yeah.. amazing flight.

~DrySiftWizard
How do you clean the screens. With your product in mist bottle? Other options thanks
 

MnH

Well-Known Member
And what's the third screen for can't get nothing through it?
Because heads stay on top and are attracted to the roller/parchment through static electricity.. the smaller bits that aren't, fall through the mesh and are left in a pile of green underneath.

:)
 

MnH

Well-Known Member
Some pix I did of my own trim a while back. 2 grades. 10 to 15 seconds. One is pure heads. Nearly. One is full of.. well.. the rest.. using this method, and still my own lpi meshes. Hope everyone been well :)

Screenshot_20190828-163605_Instagram.jpg
Screenshot_20190828-163556_Instagram.jpg
Screenshot_20190828-163534_Instagram.jpg
So that's the 2 grades I got off my trim. What falls through naturally, by gravity, is on the right. Notice a difference? The rest, which gets flicked down afterwards moving it to another clean space, then flicking the screen.. releases what was caught.. mostly crap. Here are shots of both piles after.. and why you see a distinct color difference.

Screenshot_20190828-163537_Instagram.jpg
Screenshot_20190828-163541_Instagram.jpg

See the difference? You also collect all sizes of trichomes being my method utilizes coarser meshes.. you can get away using the 60 n 90 lpi used by other places, but nobody else has my meshes.. there is a difference.. as well.. yeah it's my method lol.

Hopefully people still banging it out nice and easily.. and as always, i'm trying to advertise on here.. I have been declined a few times.. i'm still unsure why.. never been given a real reason.. please let me know if I can change anything.

Thanks, all.

You have been awesome for a lot of years.

EDIT: First 2 pix that showed up are @mightyoproductions and @countrysidefarmsor the final 3 are mine lol. Showed up in diff order
 
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MnH

Well-Known Member
btw never forget where these people came from. Adding 2 ridiculous screens on top of my setup which do nothing doesn't really change anything, hahaha.. no matter how many people you con into believing it...

Sorry no sorry. If you ever paid $100 or more for a gram, i'm really sorry, guys.. This is the dirty little secret they all don't talk about.. it's my kit.

IMG_20160507_194410 (1).jpg
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member

2com

Well-Known Member
Here is some dry sieving information:


Alas I seem to be missing some pictures from the following article. I will post them when I find them, but the rest of the information and links should be good.

I've seen the static method online in vids. I don't really have the time to make screens. I'd probably just buy them if going that route.
I'm still not sure what kind of yield can be expected using the dry sift method(s) (any of the methods). Total yield, not just the "best quality" or "95%+ trichome heads" quality. Does it come anywhere close to bubble hash yields of 20%+?
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Yield and quality are linked. The longer you run the material, the greater the yield, but the more plant material you pick up. I usually get about 50% of potential before it greens out and extract the balance with solvents.
 
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MnH

Well-Known Member
Been a while, eh?

Drysiftwizard6 on ig if ya'll still care haha.

Hope everyone still siftin!!!

Mike
 
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