A Bored Electrician to Answer Your Questions

IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
sdkid said:
What would be the best way for me to run my room? I am going to have 2 1k's, mini split ac, dehumi, pumps, chiller and all those little stuff. Its just an extra room i have but it has only the regular socket for 110v. My house has blown out a couple of sockets from the girls using the blow dryer, i think the wiring sucks in my house. Got a couple of other 110v socket that around that house that also doesnt work. I do have an extra 30a 125/250v socket from the laundry room. Both the washer and dryer uses the 110v, could i do something with that?
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if your already having problems with electric hair dryers... adding <4kw to your electrical system is a very very risky venture. your going to need a pro, and its going to cost a bit of $.
you could use the 30 amp outlet to run a grow op, however you will have to make a choice- do you want laundry, or a grow op, because you cant have both without a good amount of work. and also, 30 amps is only going to give you roughly 2880w... your going to need more wattage to run all that stuff. alot more.
the cheapest and safest option (i say cheapest, but it might not be, due to the way your house is built and wired) would be to run a new dedicated circuit out of your electrical panel to supply power for the grow op. the a/c, dehumid, and chiller will probably use more power than the (2) 1kw lights, to give you an idea of how much power your going to need. i would go with a 60 amp subpanel myself... with a circuit for each light, a circuit for the a/c, and another circuit for the pumps, chiller, and dehumid. your running alot of equipment there, be warned, and its not going to be cheap to make it work right.
 
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imanoob

Well-Known Member
IAm5toned said:
a 600w load wont even get the power company's attention man. i really wouldnt worry about it. high end gaming computers pull at least 400w. 600w is a drop in the bucket....

as far as amps
you sound like your in the UK, and im not familiar with your standard breaker sizes...
and the also use ring circuits and main circuits, which is something im not familiar with enough to give you a good answer, without some more info...
but i can say this, with a great deal of certainty-
multiply the size of the breaker in question by .8 (ex. 20 amp breaker = 20 x .8 = 16) to get the maximum amount of safe amperage that breaker can provide.
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Lost my page since the update to RIU...I really apprecaite you talking time to help/answer my questions. I have saved your calcuation to my PC and I will add it up. If i get stuck, i will post up here (if you dont mind)

Cheers again, happing smoking man :)
 
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sdkid

Active Member
The laundry uses the 110v socket instead of the 30amp. Is there a how-to to get a 60amp running off the main? as many said here before i dont want to get an electrician in because it would be a lil suspicious.
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
sdkid said:
The laundry uses the 110v socket instead of the 30amp. Is there a how-to to get a 60amp running off the main? as many said here before i dont want to get an electrician in because it would be a lil suspicious.
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its complicated man... theres alot more to it than simply adding new wiring... why i said your going to need a professional.
you need to know what your max power factor on your service drop befor eyou can even think about adding that kind of addition to a residential service.
its not something that can be done over the internet either, someone has to take a look at your main panel, in person.
 
buggin69

buggin69

Active Member
sdkid said:
The laundry uses the 110v socket instead of the 30amp. Is there a how-to to get a 60amp running off the main? as many said here before i dont want to get an electrician in because it would be a lil suspicious.
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sounds like you just need a good excuse is all...

i didn't read everything but it sounds like it's going to be a large room... tell him you're setting up a shop with an oven for powdercoating, small welder, large exhaust fan, large air compressor, and separate A/C...

all that stuff needs a lot of power and its a legit reason to need a 60 amp subpanel
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
yeah, a welder is always a good one. future hot tub or sauna is another. theres many reasons... tanning beds, home office, etc etc....
 
Cali chronic

Cali chronic

Well-Known Member
hey stoned sparky LOL question about wiring up my own HPS light was on here in another thread a guy posted a hertz ballast link and I went thru the site to match up components and the socket is wired like a fixture--Correct? and the Ballast has a capacator and some other thing that is wired in line with each other---right? It is pretty self explanatory once I get the parts mailed to me. you think? I went to the homedeep and no luck for eyeballing the config. Gotta Schematic or a run down on a map? For making a 400 watt ballast to run a 400 watt hps bulb I saw one for 160 with the bulb I was wondering if I could put one together for about 70 bucks?
Seems like most of the stuff breaks or burns out and needs fixing anyways so I might as wll fix it from the start. I mean if it is as simple as wiring a ceiling fan or a switch leg or a 3 way. I can prob do it. Hell I rebuilt my HD 5 speed tranny and it shifts like 'clik'
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
Cali chronic said:
hey stoned sparky LOL question about wiring up my own HPS light was on here in another thread a guy posted a hertz ballast link and I went thru the site to match up components and the socket is wired like a fixture--Correct? and the Ballast has a capacator and some other thing that is wired in line with each other---right? It is pretty self explanatory once I get the parts mailed to me. you think? I went to the homedeep and no luck for eyeballing the config. Gotta Schematic or a run down on a map? For making a 400 watt ballast to run a 400 watt hps bulb I saw one for 160 with the bulb I was wondering if I could put one together for about 70 bucks?
Seems like most of the stuff breaks or burns out and needs fixing anyways so I might as wll fix it from the start. I mean if it is as simple as wiring a ceiling fan or a switch leg or a 3 way. I can prob do it. Hell I rebuilt my HD 5 speed tranny and it shifts like 'clik'
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Seems like most of the stuff breaks or burns out and needs fixing anyways so I might as wll fix it from the start.
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im glad you see through the bullshit alot of manufacturers pass off as a viable product. your right, alot of HID light fixtures are fucking junk, right out of the box. from ballast enclosures that trap heat, to sub standard insulation of the transformer coils, to just plain shitty craftsmanship!
for this reason I , personally, only use and recommend Advance Ballasts and components. they are not cheap, and for good reason. they work well and last for at least a decade!
that being said, here's some info for you-

http://site.prolighting.com/hidtroubleshoot/troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.advance.philips.com/documents/uploads/literature/4-01%20to%204-15_WEB.pdf (this one is for electronic ballasts. page 4-6 is for schematics)
http://www.advance.philips.com/documents/uploads/literature/5-01 to 5-57_WEB.pdf (this one is THE HOLY GRAIL for HID lighting systems... i like to call it a restoration kit for anything and everything HID. its very technical, and goes in great depth about every component of every type of HID system on the market ;) )
http://www.advance.philips.com/documents/uploads/literature/RT-8100-R02_1209_HIDPcktGde.pdf (this one is probably the best all-around guide to HID lamps. this is what is given out to electricians in the field when they have problems.
 
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kappainf

Well-Known Member
Hey Mr. Electric, I got the relay figured out, I wound up doing it differently than you suggested, but it works now.
 
Silky Shagsalot

Silky Shagsalot

Well-Known Member
hopefully this hasn't been asked. your thread is just too big to read everything. when wanting to control the speed of an in-line fan, what's the best way to go? is using a rheostat o.k. or should you use something solid state? or does it matter? (thanks)
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
a vfd, (variable frequency drive)or a solid state pulsed output controller is best.
ac motors dont like speed control. rheostats will make a motor 'growl', and shorten the motor life drastically.
 
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